And from the article: > In the US, New York has recently coated more than 10 million sq ft of rooftops white. The state of California has already updated building codes to promote cool roofs.
Unfortunately, that's the whole point of this little discussion, right? GP is saying how many things like this, yes, seem like they have merit, but at the end of the day can't be produced practically outside of a lab.
Does the paint stick to the surface you want to paint, how is it applied, what is the coverage, is it durable, does it repel contaminants, can it withstand the environmental conditions, is it chemically compatible with the surface, it is chemically a concern for the other items/humans/animals that may come in contact with, can it be produced at scale, does it (and it's vehicle for application) meet regulatory standards? etc...
Many products drop by several % after a few years.
If you want a really smooth topcoat, you usually want to sand past what you can reasonably/economically/effectively do on the substrate. Some primers are formulated to sand nicely to a powder (as opposed to balling up in clumps on the paper). You'll see this spraying higher quality paint grade work. You have to have a decent surface before you prime, but the primer can really smooth it out for the topcoat.
If you're finishing pine with knots in it, you'll want a primer that will seal the knots, otherwise the pitch will eventually bleed through and discolor the topcoat. Shellac excels at this.
Shellac is also outstanding as a sanding sealer. You can use that in a couple of ways: to fill the pores in the wood so they don't get full of sanding dust (which can be key if you have inlay of strongly contrasting woods), or to stiffen the fibers of softer woods so you can get a better/smoother sanded surface for the next steps in the finishing schedule.
Shellac is also often used as a barrier coat between otherwise incompatible finishes or when you have a relatively fragile stain layer. If you're putting an oil based finish over an oil based stain, you run the risk of picking up the stain as you apply the topcoat, especially if you're brushing or wiping the topcoat. Because the solvent in shellac is alcohol, you can pretty freely brush it over oil or water based stains without risking a disaster.
And yes, I do use primers other than shellac from time to time if I have a specific need, but dewaxed shellac is compatible with basically everything, so I always have a can around.
N.B. I'm not a professional finisher. Don't take my word on any of this; test your prep and finishing schedule on scrap!
yes, i learned this the hard way, albeit on a simple set of wall shelves as cat stairs that i can easily fix eventually with shellac and another topcoat (when i get around to it).
i.e. electroplate > primer > base > mid pearl > clear
IMO, the stores could do better about offering basic information about this, about when one would need a primer, or just a topcoat, what kinds of paint bases are appropriate for what applications, what kinds of application methods are appropriate, etc. Instead, the response of the big box stores seems to be to skip the question entirely with combined products, e.g. "paint and primer in one".
oh, and yeah, paint and primer in one does neither job very well.
If you wanted to wait for this specific product, that's fine, but that's almost like waiting for 26% efficient solar panels instead of ~23% we already have (even though most production panels are 18% - 22%)...
And actually this is also one of those things that also helps beat Tesla Solar roof - get a white paint - THEN add bifacial solar panels. So the Tesla roof panels is actually worse for your overall cooling than regular panels now.
The white-painted object will heat less than when painted in another color, but it will heat anyway.
The white paints described in the paper and in the patent applications, which use either barium sulfate or calcium carbonate instead of the normal titanium white pigment, actually cool the painted object, even in strong solar light.