The first time was like everyone else does. Google tricks here and there. How to center div, how to create columns with divs, how to do rounded corners etc. This will only get you so far.
The second time around, I took a bunch of courses online, lynda, one of by designers, and bought books. Once you understand the fundamentals of CSS, you can work just fine with css2. Css3 is just an added benefit and great for animation.