> So in practice an application that needs some basic audio playback can just use ALSA and it'll work everywhere.
"In practice" doesn't mean what you think it means.
The behavior I described was with a Pinebook Pro which only came out about a year ago. That was running whatever version of Debian they shipped-- either stretch or buster, can't remember now. And there was no fancy or custom audio setup-- it was just an XFCE desktop environment with Pulse running however it's configured to run by default.
Also, as a maintainer of realtime audio FOSS software I can tell you users have reported these exact problems on other Linux distros. Over at least the last year and a half.
It appears that in Debian testing the configuration of Pulse "just works" as you describe. I would rankly speculate that Ubuntu 20.04 probably has a similar default setup. But to turn that rank speculation into "in practice" we'd need to actually test and see, and it sounds like neither of us have done that yet.