Does expensive wine taste better?
kenthendricks.com
kenthendricks.com
- That people can't tell the difference between a $22 bottle and a $119 bottle does not surprise me; I've long suspected wines in the $100 - $n000+ range were priced arbitrarily or down to esoteric factors.
- Is $22 considered "cheap"? e.g. I would imagine the majority of people may be able to easily tell the difference between a $119 bottle and a $5 bottle.
- I would not say expensive wine tastes "better" but rather that it tastes "specific". Some may prefer the taste of cheaper wines, but most would prefer the expensive taste. Take for example a Lambrusco: it's an inherently "cheap" wine type, despite being DOC, largely due to being young and made from high-yield grapes. But it also has a very specific flavour that would never be associated with expensive wines. But it's not "worse"; it has it's place and people much prefer Lambrusco in certain contexts.
If one has to answer the question without any further information then the answer is an unequivocal yes but there's lots of caveats--too many to discuss here.
Some decades ago I had the misfortune to be a part of a wine tasting group run by a well known and highly respected wine aficionado and we tasted some of the generally agreed very best including Burgundies, Bordeaux first growths, etc. At one blind tasting we tasted all the 1945 first growths.
Those in the know will understand the significance of the '45 moniker. There's no doubt expensive wine of this caliber taste very significantly better than cheap wine (some would say that's an understatement). Incidentally, an interesting phenomena one notices with wines of such high quality is that there's no such thing as a person who doesn't like them--unlike good but lesser quality wines where experience counts for one's discernment, even inexperienced neophytes instantly know they're better.
Above, I mentioned that tasting truly excellent wines to be a misfortune because I now know how remarkably good and very different they are from not only cheap wines but also from otherwise excellent wines that are say ~10x cheap ones. Those remarkable wines have permanently damaged my palate, there's no way that I can afford to drink them again, nor am I ever likely to taste them again as their price has increased conservatively 10-50x since I tried them-- nevertheless their memory remains. For me, these days, even good wine tastes pretty ordinary.
(Incidentally, the pick of those '45s for me and most others there was the Haut Brion. Don't ask me to describe it as I don't have the vocabulary.)
A very clear example of this is my experience of introducing people to Surströmming.
You could find countless videos on Youtube of people doing the "Surströmming challenge". They all come expecting the "smelliest food in the world", barf bags ready, giggling friend holding the camera. The results are predictable. People start barfing as soon as the can is opened.
If the novice instead comes to a proper meal setting, with plates and cutlery rather than the barf bags, the experience will be different. Nobody else at the table is freaking out. so why would you? When the smell hits (it's similar Kimchi) maybe the novice will make a comment about it, but that's all. Not everybody will take to Surströmming on their first try, though many do. But I've never seen anything even close to the Youtube freakouts. Expectations matter a lot.
One is the "fat part of the bell curve" of taste. Consider music: people listen to music for a lot of reasons, like lyrics, lack of lyrics, beat, ability to fade into the background... Many options will satisfy, and the simplest signifiers are adequate. That's why popular headphones emphasize bass these days, for example.
And there's nothing wrong with that! In the case of wine, people who aren't really into it will simply look for signifiers for what they're in the mood for (I'm in this group): more acidic, more sweet, bubbly-and-I-don't-care-otherwise which will naturally cause the popular wines to "cluster" around one of these factors. The product is essentially a commodity.
There will be a small number of people who really get into it ("sophistication" is the technical term but unfortunately it has terrible connotations) and can parse out the differences, and who might seek out a second order factor they like. But those people are always, by definition, going to be in the minority.
The second factor of course is Vleben. This also applies well beyond wine, such as the whole "prosumer" segment, "SUV"s build on automotive chassis, etc.
Aquired sophiscated tastes come with experience and social coaching. Sugar tastes "good" to everyone for fairly well established biological reasons, but when someone has been educated on the identification of finer tastes and to enjoy them- they will reject sugary food for something more nuanced and varied. Some people never recieve this education, which leads to 40 year olds drinking sodas.
In the same sense, many people never get the introduction to the finer points of a good glass of wine, and thus stick to simpler tastes. Wine pricing, particularly among the highly competitive world of home retail wine selections (how much will someone part with for a "nice bottle of evening wine") where most sell at say, $10 but the best price to performance is around the $22 mark. With particularly nuanced and hard to produce wine tastes ganering the high costs. Not literal comparative "good taste"
Could there be a significant cohort of people who are unaware they have a diminished sense of taste due to age or other factors?
I later discovered that it was also nearly four times the price.
So, yes, expensive wines do taste better. But are they good 'value for money'? I doubt that.