'Too negative ': Welsh seaside images (1979)
theguardian.com
theguardian.com
That was in the 90s and early 2000s. Morecambe is famous for a load of underpaid cockle pickers drowning when the tide came in, if I remember right. Southport and Blackpool were great when the tide was out, you could literally cross the estuary separating them if you were stupid enough. The beaches weren't always so fun unless you liked strolling through a mass grave of washed up jellyfish. And the tide was a force to be reckoned with when the sea wall along the prom was as tall as a house.
But that was then. All I've heard about Blackpool, for a long time, is that it became a stag/hen party hotspot and otherwise a dump. Southport was more or less a retirement community like Lytham St Anne's.
Shame really, just a part of the country that's been neglected since Thatcher. And you've got the lake district barely an hour's drive away. Such beautiful nature.
But the towns have seen better days. I remember seeing the infamous closed-down shop branded "Rhyl's Biggest Receiver of Stolen Goods":
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gazh1/184659511/
(as the caption says, mouse over to read the notes - the slogan is not what it seems)
The only other thing I'd add, like a commenter below, is that we went walking the other day on the frosty grassland of the beach, under a beaming wintersun, and it was really quite beautiful.
Also places of stunning beauty, and history. You have to know how to pick.
Contrast this with e.g. rural japan (Toyama fishing harbour) which has gutted fish heaps, rotting jetties, next to amazingly cared for plants wrapped in hessian with bamboo struts, Onsen, amazing Kaiseki food...
Rhyl can be lovely. Rhyl can be cold and forbidding. the 1970s were a time of 17% mortgage interest, rampant inflation, mass unemployment... I went there hunting diesel shunting locomotives in my train spotting days.
If you want grim wales, Barry Island. But then, steam engine burial ground. Yes, grim, but also amazing. Like chernobyl but for steam engines. (maybe thats gone now)
Before moving to England, I never had a use for the word “dreary”. But it fits a place like Morecombe or Blackpool so perfectly.
On Sunday, I was walking north from North Pier, slightly below the sea wall; with the sound of the waves rolling over the vast beach (rated as "Excellent"). There was pure January light reflecting from those incredible hills of Cumbria, and I had 11 miles of immaculate footpaths ahead of me.
You can find dreary anywhere, but also incredible beauty if you look; Blackpool, or Paris, or anywhere inbetween.
That was an interesting rabbit hole - it would appear to be Woodham brothers [1].
"297 withdrawn British Railways steam locomotives were sent, of which 213 were rescued." One notable rescue being the Hogwarts Express [2]
I may be wrong, but its possible predating on wrecks there early on, reduced the viability of restoration for the latecomers. Its one of those net-present-value things.
The really good locos got held back, didn't wind up in Barry. Stuff in the York railway museum, the flying scotsman, Sir Nigel Gresley. But steam enthusiasts like domestic, boring, black little saddle-tank shunters, factory locomotives, the wierd and wonderful. They didn't have good hopes for being kept, in the big switch to diesel-electric.
I believe some stuff wound up being kept, because e.g. british steel (as was) hung onto them to run shunting in private railroads. So, if you had steam on-hand, you could convert from a coal fired steam engine, to a steam engine which re-charged its tank, and not have to do anything.
They're perfectly (un)happy just being weird and Welsh.
I've spent a lot of time there and by best friend lives there.
I've been lucky enough to have been on a few holidays in both Scotland and Ireland for a few weeks at a time (I'm Canadian, but I lived in England for a just under a year). I found the people in Whales to be considerably less friendly than anywhere else in the British isles. To a point where I walked into a pub in a small town and people switched from speaking English to Welsh. I plan to return to Ireland and Scotland, but based on my experience with the Welsh, have no real desire to revisit Wales.
I suspect they were already conversing in Welsh before you walked in.
In fact, I've sat in many different pubs in North Wales, but not once did I switch from English to Welsh when someone walked in. I'd have no idea what languages they were capable of, and in any case would never be speaking in English with other Welsh speakers.
I apologize for any snark, but we do get tired of this trope. Perhaps this sketch will lighten the atmosphere
I love these photos and there is a lot of truth in them. I myself have taken some amusingly bleak photos on the British coastline although clearly not as amazing as these.
Now, many had much better facilities, and often much larger crowds, but the beach aspect is pretty darn good.
North Wales is nice too, I suppose
If you’re not in the oil refining business though, good jobs are really hard to find, and everything is rundown compared to my childhood. Those “offseason” photos could now be taken at any time of the year
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/260064
Seaside 1950:
https://gohomeonapostcard.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/wp-319...
The piers stood as major tourist attractions for (more than a century?):
https://www.cheshirelife.co.uk/out-about/places/the-piers-of...
Edit: Many postcards of the piers:
I actually rather liked these images because there’s a certain grit to it that is still sometimes present.
It can be incredibly beautiful there. I've been many times. It can also be very bleak. Still, it will always hold a fond place in my heart.
I haven't made it over from Canada in a couple of years, but I'm sure I'll be back some day.
Back to the bench where your clothes were stolen
This is the coastal town
That they forgot to close down
Armageddon, come Armageddon!
Come, Armageddon! Come!
Everyday is like Sunday
Everyday is silent and grey
Hide on the promenade
Etch a postcard :
"How I Dearly Wish I Was Not Here"
In the seaside town
That they forgot to bomb
Come, come, come, nuclear bomb"
These are on the other side of the country though. But same 'atmosphere' more or less. Kind of a photographic counterpart to and reminiscent of 'Post War Dream'
In general, rural areas and small towns are not automatically deprived (though they can be), they are quite happy with attracting more well-paid jobs into the community to support the local economy, and they tend not to suffer from chronic shortages of accommodation like the big cities do.
I do sympathise with your cousins though. The few Irish-speaking regions left in the country are constantly facing similar challenges.
I'm British, I know Wales pretty well. Rural north Wales is pretty deprived
I went to Barmouth (one of the towns mentioned) as a kid and it was great.
It sometimes works for landscapes - especially at night. But for people it, unfortunately, makes them look like they're not alive anymore.
If you've ever seen someone who passed away, they somewhat look like a B&W photo of themselves.
Worth a look as the antidote to the OP.
Both are great in my opinion. I don’t care what Morrissey thinks, I love the British seaside.
These photos make me think of Malcolm Pryce‘s surreal Welsh noir books. I know they’re set in a different part of Wales but North Wales is definitely on my list of places to visit.
That said, most of my holidays were in Wales back then and the Barmouth turd regatta is my only grim memory.
> With a working title of Anatomy of Melancholy, an exhibition was scheduled soon after the gallery’s refurbishment and reopening. Bennett’s project was ultimately deemed likely to cause funding problems by showing the region’s resorts in too negative a light
I had to laugh at "Anatomy of Melancholy". I'm not sure what the gallery was expecting, but I can see why they might've been apprehensive about showing these off in their freshly-opened local attraction!
All around the UK there are spa towns and resorts that were clearly bustling with wealth (community and personal) a century ago, but have now slumped in popularity.
A town like Malvern for example. It was the height of Edwardian (I think that’s the right era) sophistication. A must visit tourist destination for the middle classes. All that really remains anymore of the town’s prestige are the schools and the immovable hills. You see some spa infrastructure still but a lot of it is derelict.
I was in Llanthony valley a few summers ago and took a really interesting guided tour through some local unpaved roads. Our guide, Henry was born in the village in 1930. He showed us the sites of two former pubs, now completely gone except for some York stones on the threshold. They’d drink there, or walk an hour across the valley to the pubs on the other side when they felt like it. We looked through the old school that taught 15 children of local families. It’s now just another big house with two cars parked outside.
The big house up the top had a squire who rented land to Henry and his father where they grew valuable soft fruit crops for sale in the local market towns. The village had other services: a shop and a farrier.
All gone. The fruit plots are now overtaken with ash and briar. People still lived in all of the houses, but they were now the country homes of people who worked in the big local towns, or London, or had just retired to the area. I don’t begrudge them for that, and it was surely a much poorer life back in the 1950s, but it was also a much more of a local one and that felt like it had a lot of value. It also felt like the people were all there but they just didn’t know each other any more. Or they did, but they didn’t work together, so it was a dormitory suburb albeit in the heart of a Welsh valley. No one worked there.
It felt quite melancholic. The big towns took so much away from the second cities, villages, and countryside. When you can find British communities that still thrive away from the major cities it is magical.
https://www.malvernremembers.org.uk/wp-content/gallery/great...
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cwmyoy
http://thirdeyetraveller.com/st-martins-church-cwmyoy-crooke...
...and here’s another great link:
https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-tenbury-wells-spa-...
Where's that, do you think?
Local businesses unlock a lot of connections. Hardwood sawmills and butchers have worked well for me. A good local butcher supplies the best local pubs so getting to know one can unlock access to t’other. Pubs are extremely variable in the localness of their management. A village pub that’s owned by Greene King and no longer has a snug is a world away from a village freehouse with a family friendly public bar and a saloon bar full of sozzled young farmers.
Knowledge of the countryside and Anglicanism helps too. The old guard’s interests overlap a lot with bird watching and Christ. I’m not religious but I am spiritual enough to enjoy chapel, and choral music is a free gig if you’re into that sound. People are glad to meet you in church: it’s the easiest way of signalling you take the community seriously. With all respect to the actual religious practice, in terms of the old ways far too many villages became Alpha / evangelical over the past few decades and in my limited experience it’s those communities that are letting go of the past. (This is a sweeping generalisation so I hope I’m not offending anyone.)
I used to think that venerable old cultures were a mystical thing one only found in the Far East but they can also be right on your doorstep.
The brightest and best leave to go to university and find decent jobs. The dregs stay behind creating a vicuous circle. In some areas retirees move in because the prices are so attractive but they bring very little economic activity with them. Often the only employer is the state which has perverse effects on local businesses (they can't compete with the higher public sector wages).
My grandmother lived in Llandudno, and the town is the acme of that. So many incredibly grand hotels, arcades, and so on, all now tatty and grim. Some cousins were staying at the Grand Hotel, the biggest and boldest hotel, up on the side of the peninsula. The bedsheets were dirty and the rooms stank.
I have no idea what you could do about any of this.
He upset a few too many people in NHS management.
Going ballistic artsy and finding something nice to photograph at the sea in winter wasn't so complicated after all; the ocean is gorgeous in winter. It seems that he was very unhappy in that place for some reason (maybe somebody robbed him?) and that his relationship with the locals was very difficult and sour. This photo gallery is the definition of revenge.
https://www.bbc.com/news/in-pictures-55537454
And the photographer's website with many more pictures:
https://michaelbennett.uk/pier-closing-time
Fun fact: the exhibition that has brought these pictures to our attention was apparently co-organised by the Turner Contemporary in Margate, which is itself another seaside town they forgot to shut down.
He's back in the greater London now after 4 miserable years. The locals objected to an outsider in the village. He was refused service at the local pub. The pub shut ultimately because of lack of business. But he was sick of it and came back here where people don't care where you were born and things open on Sundays.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Kingdom_by_the_Sea
In 1979, Thatcher had just become PM, so when Theroux got there, the slump foreshadowed in these images was in full ruinous collapse.