Its pretty bad.
XCode (with swift) seems to crash on me regularly just with normal usage. The last time I used it occasionally it would lag so badly that it sometimes lost characters I was typing, and my code would come out completely garbled (what!?). A few weeks ago I tried to do a local build of Signal's iOS app and the swift compiler errored out on some random function. Apparently it spent so long doing type inference that it decided to just generate a compilation error instead. I guess I'm not wealthy enough to even compile swift code slowly. (For reference, this on a $3000 (AUD) macbook pro from 2016 with 16 gigs ram, the latest xcode and nothing else open).
Back in the objective-C days I used to really like XCode and loved interface builder. The documentation and ecosystem seemed top notch. But in the last few years its gotten much, much worse. Its like the old guard have left and a young generation have come in to develop the swift ecosystem - and they just don't have good judgement yet. The documentation is halfbaked at best. The whole environment is an overcomplicated, buggy, laggy mess. Its a pity too, because I think Swift is a lovely language and I love what they're doing with SwiftUI.
In comparison I find microsoft's tooling around their languages to be excellent. Visual studio + vs code are fast, stable, feature rich and responsive. Particularly with microsoft's own languages: C# and typescript.