I've been in ops for 10+ years building platforms. I'd love to be able to spend 6 hours a day coding but when I'm jugging 10-20 different products that have 1-10+ different languages involved (go, python, nodejs, javascript, ruby, ansible, terraform, puppet, chef) you really have a hard time getting super good at one thing. So most of us have to get good at one language just to pass the code tests, then it languishes because when launching a product I then spend 1-3 months writing something completely different out of biz necessity.
The most important skill to me for an SRE/Ops is curiosity and pattern recognition, and #1 humility/empathy.
There is a massive amount of IT work being done - work that you, me or any other denizen of HN would probably rate as terrible and smelling of middle ages. But it gets the job done, even if it's being done manually. And some people just don't know any better.