The Origins of Precision [video]
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How to making flat plates from scratch with the 3 plate method is relatively easy to understand. But screw threads have a much more complex geometry, with no obvious way of making one from scratch. They also have many more parameters to consider, including relative pitch accuracy, and absolute accuracy.
As far as I can tell achieving accurate screw threads it something that took a huge amount of work by many different people effectively working together to get successively better and better threads, using each others' screw threads made using multiple techniques to average out errors. But I've never actually seen anyone describe from start to finish out to go from nothing to an accurate screw thread. It's not even clear to me that it's possible to do alone in a reasonable amount of time.
Relevant: https://freechaptersinbooks.wordpress.com/2012/09/18/screw-t...
> though presumably that's not enough to machine a better screw, otherwise they'd do that ;)
These days it's probably cheaper to just program the compensation curve into your CNC controller than to actually build a better screw! The really accurate machines often use separate distance encoders anyway, rather than rely on a ball screw that's being stretched and compressed by both load and temperature effects during use.
Suppose you have a lathe whose screw thread has errors in pitch such that the position of the middle thread is incorrect. With the right gears, you can use that lathe to cut a second thread with a different pitch. But regardless of what pitch you choose, the middle of that second thread will have the exact same absolute error in that position as the original thread. So you haven't actually improved anything.
The best I can think of to improve the accuracy of a thread is to measure the thread against multiple length standards, and grind/lap away material by hand to bring the actual position along the thread length as close as possible to your length standards. However, as the number of length standards you can practically measure against is limited, you'll need to already be at a point where relative pitch error is small. Averaging out errors with a long follower nut is probably one way to do that.
I also found this: https://en.m.wikisource.org/wiki/Encyclopædia_Britannica,_Ni...
An absurdly difficult process, but the result is a full-area bearing screw that never wears out.
Here's a screw cutting machine from Da Vinci's notebook:
https://www.ssplprints.com/image/100676/leonardo-da-vinci-sc...
But as you observe, it already has a screw in it. Two screws actually, one on either side, which advance a carriage that cuts a new screw in the center from a blank. It can either duplicate the pitch, or using a gear ratio, it can cut a different pitch than the two master screws.
The central screw averages the error of the two master screws, so with certain assumptions, the new can end up more accurate than either of the masters; the master screws can then be swapped out for new screws made this way, and so on. But there are limits to that approach, because common errors won't get averaged out. However you could, for example, assume that two screws made this way with the same masters are accurate duplicates of each other, then when you replace the masters with those two new screws, you can mount one of them flipped end-over-end, or with a rotational offset of eg. 90 or 180 degrees (offsetting the leadnut to compensate), and gradually average out more errors that way.
Another way as you noted in a different comment is to use a long, soft leather lead-nut to average multiple threads, and use that as a master to create a new thread (assuming a low cutting force -- for example with force amplification, or for checking a thread, and so on).
There are some first principles approaches you could use, like making a master cylinder and then wrapping a wire of constant-diameter around it to make a literal 'thread', and bonding it in place. It wouldn't be the most robust threadform but that's another way.
Henry Maudslay invented the first one that saw widespread use.
https://www.ssplprints.com/image/100286/henry-maudslays-orig...
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Henry_Maudslay:_Machine_Tools
I've never actually seen a detailed explanation of how he cut that first accurate lead screw! Like I say, as far as I can tell it took an iterative variety of processes that made a variety of screw threads, with no one method alone being enough by itself.
AIUI, it's used to cut a lead screw in relatively soft material by holding a cutting tool to it at an angle. Once you have that, you can generate a screw in harder material from it (carefully, one has to assume).
Meanwhile, Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy was published in 1970 by Wayne R. Moore, who was presumably still alive at the time, so its copyright status is still very much in force... but archive.org says "Here, have a nicely-OCR'ed .PDF."
I hope they're able to survive their present legal difficulties, but I'll be darned if I can see how.
A lot of the original work in precision manufacturing was in the arms industry. Interchangeable parts in rifles were a huge deal when they came about: no longer did you need a skilled gunsmith to individually fettle replacement parts when a gun needed repair, you could swap one worn part for another in less time and closer to the action.
in case your internal spell check does not fix it for you.
Given that mortar is semi-solid, there's no way you could ever reliably get the same thickness of mortar without an external reference.
Older tall chimneys are often visibly crooked in parts. I'm no chimney builder, but it's easy to imagine it being difficult to get the alignment perfect when you're trying to make an angled structure, high up in the air, using primitive tools. (remember that tall chimneys are narrower at the top than the bottom to save money, so you can't directly compare it to a vertical plumb-bob line: you have to offset each layer slightly from vertical)
Equally, once the error builds up to the point where you can see it from the ground, getting the rest of the chimney back to true would be easy: just lay the next layers of bricks slightly offset until it looks right again. Results in an slightly ugly looking chimney. But a lot cheaper and faster than demolishing the crooked bit and starting over.