I sucked it up and worked as an IC for while and realized that, after 20 years, I have little interest in writing code for a living any more. I truly enjoyed the strategic and personal growth aspects of managing, so I left that company and have only taken manager roles. I find managing to be much more stressful, but supporting my people through these trying teams has been a highlight of my career.
I moved back to IC when they finally posted an opening to backfill my job. I went to my boss and said: "I can be a mediocre manager or a great engineer, you choose."
Later on there was a big reshuffling of the department, and I was asked if I wanted to be a manager. I said yes. More reshuffling thinned my team down to 2 reports, and I kind of oozed my way back into IC by just doing IC work for people when I wasn't managing.
All of these moves were promotions in both pay and title.
One thing you learn by being through a few annual cycles at your business is how it really works. For instance, things like performance reviews, pay increases, promotions, etc. This knowledge will serve you in any career.
In every organization I've ever worked in, project management was very different than management management: project managers never ended up actually "managing" people as in hiring, firing, budgeting, setting direction for, etc.
You have people who were managing several (5-80) engineers and technicians at a manufacturing plant, refinery, or other operational location, move to corporate and become an IC in various capacities. Some become advisors to senior mid-level, or VP-level management, or take on more commercial IC roles. They'll do those roles for a couple years and then rotate back into management in either their old orgs or the new org.