The Native-American Origins of Gumbo
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Only found one chef in Michigan who could make a really good gumbo and he's a Louisiana native. Sadly he's gone back down there. Just aren't enough people in Central Michigan area who like Cajun food enough to make a successful business.
Here's a list of current cooking schools in New Orleans:
https://gonola.com/food-drink-in-new-orleans/new-orleans-coo...
Might be a great idea for a Masterclass series online.
Link's known as a New Orleans chef and James Beard Award winner, but he's Cajun as hell and his recipes are largely no-nonsense, easy to make, and stay away from unusual ingredients.
Start with jambalaya, which is delicious and not as difficult to learn as making a roux for gumbo.
More philosophically, understand two things:
- Traditional Cajun food is farm food. These are dishes meant to be cooked slow while you're working, and in servings that load up a large family (or whole neighborhood) to prep for another day of it.
- Favor freshness, flavor, improvisation, and community over any concept of canonical accuracy.
There's no ideal "Cajun seasoning" (although I will swear to my grave on smoked and hot paprika being key components), and no foolproof roux-making method. No one single way to go about any of it. French concepts divorced from their European pretense -- compare Cajun boudin to continental French boudin, for instance -- then spun with Choctaw, Coushatta, and Caddo techniques (fry breads, native herbs, and steaming shellfish and gulf seafood), German immigrants making sausages out of pork but also game duck and deer (and beer), West African and Caribbean stews, vegetables, and barbecue, Spanish rice dishes and tamales, and a willingness to cook and eat any animal slow or stupid enough to get caught.
In the end it all comes down to how to stretch one chicken/pig/deer/duck/rabbit/turtle/catfish/basket of crawfish/whatever into a week of food when all you really have to eat is a huge pot of long-grain rice that you don't have time to fuss over. It's culinary alchemy.
That's why I suggest learning jambalaya first, because it embodies this concept: you cut and fry up one chicken and cook it in a stock pot with enough rice to serve a dozen people, and your goal is to make the entire pot taste like it's all chicken.
If you can do that, and wrap your head around how it happens, the rest of it just sort of falls into place.
I learned how to cook Cajun watching Emeril on the Food Network over twenty years ago. I hope it wasn’t phony. :-)
Probably one of the most divisive ingredients for gumbo is okra. Some will tell you that it's not a real gumbo if it doesn't have okra. The other camp won't eat it if it does contain okra.
On the use of file, I could probably count on 1 hand the number of times I've seen it used. Everyone knows about it, but I've never witnessed it being commonly used.
The two biggest challenges (IMO) of gumbo are the roux (making it without burning/scorching it, in which case you have to throw it out and start over) and the sausage. My family stopped making roux decades ago. They all buy pre-made roux. You can buy it with and without oil. I prefer using the roux without the oil because the jar doesn't need to be refrigerated after opening and it doesn't spoil (plus it's healthier). My family always has used smoked sausage for all gumbo (whether it's chicken, seafood, duck, etc.). Finding fresh smoked sausage to impart the desired flavor is very difficult. The very best (IMO) is the smoked sausage made by Teet's Food Store in Ville Platte.
I'll add on to your comment about the slow cooking. Not only the food should be cooked slow, but the chef should not be in a hurry. In my experience, my best gumbo and jambalaya comes from having plenty of time to cook it at a leisurely pace. Also, my jambalaya is only cooked in big cast iron pots. One of my Cajun cookbooks gives the admonition "Qui va doucettement va surement" (He who goes slowly goes surely).
Dang it, now I'm craving some.
egads! having grown up in the south (but not in louisiana), i cannot wrap my mind around gumbo without okra. it seems so essential to the taste. how can it not have okra? what replaces it?
i've had tasty gumbo in new orleans and other places, but alas, i can't find any good gumbo in (the city of) LA, with or without okra.
I thought culinary use was technically not legal due to cancer concerns. The leaves can also be psychoactive.
https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfr...
Lafayette, Baton Rouge, New Orleans are all great. The middle of the state (Alexandria region called Cenla for Central Louisiana) is a mixture of south Louisiana influence and the more Northern influences, so the Cajun influences are there, but watered down. Northern Louisiana is nothing like the rest of the state. With the exception of Shreveport and Monroe (maybe Ruston) it is mostly small towns and has a very Bible belt feel to it. Some call it "South Arkansas" as it has more in common with that region.
I've had gumbo and jambalaya made by Cajun family and the best places in the South and it's much better than anywhere else in the US when it is made properly. I've had plenty of what's called gumbo/jambalaya in other southern states and it is good, but doesn't quite taste right.
What about drive-through daiquiris? Seriously, my most missed part of Louisiana. If we weren't up for cocktails, my wife and I would each get a sonic cup sized frozen daquiri of pure deliciousness. For whatever reason this is just not a thing in most states.
The River Parishes (St. Charles, St. John, St. James) are pretty much their own region too. It's a mixture of New Orleans and Cajun plus a healthy dose of German.
Baton Rouge and New Orleans are most definitely not Cajun. Sure, you'll find pockets of authenticity, but generally speaking they're not. New Orleans is Creole, a mixture of various influences but primarily French, Spanish, and Native American. There are other parts of the state that have a fairly pure French heritage that are not Cajun nor Creole (towns in the central part of the state like New Roads and Ville Platte).
'Cajun' is the one that is most well known, but Creole and non-Acadian French (ancestors came directly from France, not exiled from Nova Scotia) also have outstanding cuisine. Some of this may feel like splitting hairs, but the distinctions are important for some of the Louisiana natives.
Water Song: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SobKHw72aBo
Mardi Gras Indians: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkBEpSNXGuw
Plenty of online mentions of sassafras tea involve using the root, but using leaves seems to be less known. It’s much easier to make (just pick a few leaves) and the taste is much better than the root, especially with a spoonful of sugar added.
> Sassafras is classified as a carcinogenic substance. It caused liver cancer in laboratory animals. The risk of developing cancer increases with the amount consumed and duration of consumption.
https://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/herbs...
There was a place in Los Angeles that I went to once many years ago. It was great, but I don't remember the name.