From farm to factory: the unstoppable rise of American chicken
theguardian.com
theguardian.com
Granted, I had to buy hundreds of pounds of it, but I got all sorts of cuts, bones for broth, organs (tongue, heart, liver, etc.)
The process was surprisingly simple, and I wish more people knew it was an option. I'd be happy to outline what was involved for anyone curious.
I don't object to killing animals, but the way we raise them industrially is truly one of the horrors of our time.
After committing to only eating animals I could trace the provenance of, I rarely eat meat these days, perhaps once or twice a month I'll pull something from the freezer. The variety of vegetarian and vegan options has really exploded.
It cuts out the middle man too -- my money is going to a local farmer and a local butcher, I can specify exactly which cuts I want, how I want them prepared, etc.
Reach out to farmers and see who actually has something available, ask any questions you have about how they raise the animal. Ask about their process for ordering and whether they'll transport to a butcher. Put a deposit down on an animal.
Once you've put your deposit down, you wait for your harvest date. In my case, they transported the animal to the butcher, where it hung for a couple weeks. During that time, you prepare a 'cut sheet'. This describes how you'd like the animal prepared -- steaks or roasts, ground meat or not, etc. The butcher can walk you through this and tell you what's common.
After a few weeks, the butcher will give you a call, your meat is ready! Drive there and load your car with hundreds of pounds of individually wrapped steaks, roasts, ground beef, stew meat, soup bones, etc. Drive home and load up your freezer, distribute to friends who went in on the purchase with you, etc.
Lastly, figure out lots of recipes. Learn to braise, sous vide, grill, make smashburgers, whatever. You are going to be eating a lot of beef, explore world cultures. There are so many different ways to prepare it, French is so different than German, Japanese is different than Korean, American is different than Mexican, etc. You have hundreds of pounds of beef to eat, variety is important.
That's as close to a process as I can think of for someone who doesn't "know the right people."
I now live close to the border and frequently head across for large carneasadas with the in-laws and extended families. We usually buy some goats... the kids play with them for a while, then we butcher them on the spot and eat them up. Sometimes, we’ll have a cow (usually hiring a few locals to butcher it... unlike a goat, a cow is a lot of work without the proper equipment.)
Consequently, I don’t find the whole thing all that exotic or romantic. It’s just meat. Whether it’s butchered by me or in a factory, makes little difference to me.
I’m not criticizing you... just couldn’t help but butting in to remind the urbanites that what you are describing seems sort of amusing... as I type this, there is an annoying chicken in our backyard that — for whatever strange reason — clucks late into the night... she will be in my stomach this Sunday.
We need to create a system that keeps up high animal care standards on one side - and has widespread accessibility across all classes of society. The alternative is that either we continue with meat grown in abhorrent conditions with all risks (bacterial contamination of meat, pathogens jumping species) and externalities (manure nitrogen runoffs, methane emissions, smell) associated or that only the elites will be able to have meat - something that far-right populists are already accusing left parties (such as the Greens in Germany) of already doing.
(Yes, lab grown meat is a thing, but it will probably be another two or three decades until I can eat a lab grown steak!)
It always comes down to the "Boots theory of socioeconomic unfairness" in the end. Most of the stuff we are talking about here is nowhere near practically applicable for the majority of the population.
For what it's worth 40 million people i the US are facing eviction because they can't come up with something as essential as rent. This is how deep the social divide has become in the US.
Expensive though
Western countries are weird about this. Chicken breast, particularly the industrially produced Tyson broilers and their ilk, is bland, dry and tasteless. (There's an Anthony Bourdain quote which I can't find right now about chicken being what people who don't like food order in restaurants.)
In Asian countries "dark" meat is preferred and sells at a premium, because it actually has some texture and taste.
The animals are raised healthier and it shows in the taste and nutritional composition.
It's probably easier to cook dark meat also.
Like most other chefs I know, I’m amused when I hear people object to pork on nonreligious grounds. “Swine are filthy animals,” they say. These people have obviously never visited a poultry farm. Chicken—America’s favorite food—goes bad quickly; handled carelessly, it infects other foods with salmonella; and it bores the hell out of chefs. It occupies its ubiquitous place on menus as an option for customers who can’t decide what they want to eat. Most chefs believe that supermarket chickens in this country are slimy and tasteless compared with European varieties.
from "Don't Eat Before Reading This", the essay which put him on the map as a writer.
https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1999/04/19/dont-eat-befor...
Is this actually a thing? That is, an agnostic/atheist refusing to eat pork because it's dirty? Also AFAIK "swine are filthy animals" is the justification for not eating pork in abrahamic religions.
They are filthy because they have to sleep in their own shit, because the farmer presses them together in such a small room that they literally cannot move without hitting each other.
If pigs are raised on an open field, they roll themselves in water to keep them clean multiple times per day. On the other hand cows roll themselves in their shit, even when provided with puddles of water...and are unable to clean themselves afterwards because they ain't gonna take a bath.
Source: me, my grandparents had a rather mid-large farm in Germany and tried to raise their stock as humane as possible.
They also tried to raise chicken in an open manner, but that's close to impossible because you would have to have a lot of bushes, puddles, mixed areas of grass, plants, and a lot of fences in between (so groups don't attack other groups) around the stable. Otherwise chicken won't leave the stable, even not when they get infected.
And the value of chicken stock is so low that it's a financial disaster if you would build up a healthy environment for them, even if you would own the land. They would just destroy the plants so regularly that you would have to replace the plants at least on a monthly basis to provide hideouts and shadow for them.
Cattle use automatic brushes[2] when they're made available.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ww5nuVZnmc
also pigs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rD5fviQ_i3c
[1] Or at least the sort of stys which haven't been legal here for a long time. Ferkeln in austrian music videos are even cleaner, but on the other hand the farmer depicted is obviously also not in her daily outfit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw-g6X8qob0&t=128
0:35 damn, that's a sweet New Holland...
Damn, that's actually a very nice idea. We didn't have those back then.
Looks like it's a thing here, too: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobiles_Haltungssystem
FWIW, we only take "Freilandhaltung" eggs these days.
For Ländler-fans: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euIrO9spk2A
I know Americans slept on dark meat for a while, and perhaps many still do, but in a certain slice of the foodie subculture (recipe bloggers, YouTube foodies, etc) this idea that dark meat is ALWAYS better than white meat has become this truism that, it seems to me at least, people like to slip in to signal how cultured they are or something.
Personally, it just depends on the dish and what kind of mood I’m in.
For example, if I’m wanting to make a pan sauce I’ll almost always go with white meat (usually bone-in split breast).
Chicken parm? White meat, please
For me, because dark meat itself is fattier and more flavorful by default, I find it can take over in many dishes where the meat is more of a vehicle for something else.
Stir frys, however - I almost always opt for dark meat.
Curries? It depends.
You get a stronger taste for sure, but I've not yet found it actually jars with a recipe (and to be clear, complete anecdata based on dishes I prepare) to the extent the cons outweigh the pros.
It's the same with eggs - there's a noticeable difference in color and taste between farm and true free range eggs.
When served it's a kind of battle because the thigh go first, then the sticks ("pilon"), and the breasts last. Nobody wants them; sometimes they simply get thrown away as they tend to be dry and flavorless.
1. Factory farming breeds viruses -- one of the main reasons people have been saying "when, not if" about pandemics for decades. We happened to get a coronavirus this time, but factory farms will produce a flu pandemic soon enough if we don't stop them, which we can. Here are two videos by Dr. Michael Greger for background:
- Pandemics: History & Prevention: https://youtu.be/7_ppXSABYLY
- Can we stop a future pandemic? Dr. Michael Greger M.D explains what’s next: https://youtu.be/N0pvR92XT30
2. We keep making markets more and more efficient and then lament when there's no resilience and small problems affect everyone everywhere. Redundancies and other inefficiencies aren't bad.
Egg + milk vegetarian is quite easy and satisfied any meat cravings, where when I try to eat vegan I feel lacking.
I know there's the whole morality behind chicken eggs and milk, so I don't see vegetarian as the end destination for anyone who cares about ethics/morals.
More should try to reduce meat consumption and avoid supporting factory farms.
While I can understand concerns about factory conditions for egg layers, is there anyone who believes there are ethical issues around eggs produced in the decidedly non-factory conditions of my backyard? I've been somewhat amazed by just how easy it has been to raise them so far and would advocate anyone who wants to enjoy eggs should give it a go.
Regarding milk: Yes, I'm in agreement, for most adult humans the soy / almond / oat / etc options are perfectly good, apart perhaps from baking.
Fish is the one area I don't personally see a good substitute, until the market tells me it is too expensive to continue eating.
Yes. Hens in a natural setting (a backyard human controlled setting is not natural) would lay about 25 eggs in a whole year. If you do not collect the eggs from your birds, this should be what you observe, unless these are selectively bred birds who may lay more eggs. If you calculate your three dozens a week as a per-bird number (which you haven’t mentioned), it would likely be many multiples larger.
Egg laying is a physically taxing activity for the birds. Not being able to brood over the laid eggs is another issue if you agree that these birds are also capable of feeling emotionally (even if not directly comparable to humans).
Soy and almond have high levels of phytoestrogens. This encourages obesity, breast growth (including in males), and cancer.
Oat isn't quite so bad, but it has high levels of phytic acid, an antinutrient.
Or rather, holds the same moral views as you hold.
Vat-grown meat will have to do better than emulating cheap chicken. Endangered exotic species and ethical cannibalism will be tried. The Kardashians will license their DNA and everyman, for a reasonable price, can eat the rich.
I couldn't even finish the Impossible Whopper when I tried it - taste and consistent of rubber. We tried some substitute chicken recently - taste was good, consistency was good, but then we looked at the ingredients - was basically a ball of flour with some flavoring; not really what I want to serve my kids regularly.
Something I've noticed about the meat substitutes: My family likes them better when they don't try to be meat. As in - when they are flavorful and nutritious on their own rather than attempting to simulate meat, they tend to be better than the options that are trying too hard to pretend to be meat.
One was about analog cheese, f.i. on pizza. Another "meat glue" used to form shreds into a big block of ham. Not to forget surimi instead of real shrimps.
Then the vegetarian/vegan craze really took off, and nobody cared about "Eingriffstiefe"/depth of engagement of technically processed food anymore, just had to have some veggie-label on it and all was good.
Just by applying the reasoning that raising animals in mostly harm-free and organic ways is good for the quality of the meat, by giving it better texture and taste, one could come to the conclusion that this Pappfraß does the same to humans which eat it in the same ways as all that other industrial junk.
But I mostly don't see it mentioned, with the exception of Paleo. It's all about virtue signalling and bizniz.
( Sometimes I think for myself that I'd really like to signal them MY virtues, letting them feel my golden shower power... by pissing in their faces... )
This is actually a metaphor for what's happening in the computer industry currently.
I don’t purchase it because I have enough money to buy chickens that been humanely raised. I believe this is a moral obligation if you can afford it. But I won’t judge people who can’t afford it to buy chickens raised this way. If my fortunes change I will be grateful I can still buy a chicken. While I’m not in that situation I will continue to consume free range, organic, “happy chickens” that only had 1 bad day.
If anyone can confirm with a source and what would be the natural cost of chicken, I'd be interested.
We are removing statutes of Confederate figures and slave holders now. Schools, buildings are being renamed.
I expect this list of schools named after Barack Obama to grow larger: https://www.google.com/search?q=schools+named+after+barack+o...
Here is Barack Obama ordering burgers at Five Guys burgers: https://www.google.com/search?q=barack+obama+five+guys&sourc...
It is well within bounds to imagine future generations being absolutely incensed that schools are named after meat-eaters consuming the end product of industrialized slaughter.
It is easy to imagine future generations seeing us as monsters.
Are we monsters?
I won't give up meat. I will however do everything in my personal power to vote to end such practices and buy local, even if it means paying more. I think we just need to show more people. The meat industries have done a great job of hiding their awful secrets, often at the legislative level.
Don't waste you're money buying local because it really means nothing with respect to welfare of the animal. Instead try to reduce your consumption.
If everyone reduced consumption just to reduce it, factory farms would still exist, just less of them. You didn't solve the issue, you just made it slightly smaller.
You're also underestimating the impact of modern animal breeds on the price of animal products. Broiler chickens are slaughtered at about a third of the age as chickens a century ago. All farms benefit from that kind of decrease and it's one of the things that turned chicken into a daily food. Without CAFOs, prices would certainly go up, but less dramatically than you thibk.
Similarly, on the human front, a Westerner deploying even a little cash in the poorest parts of the world can save hundreds of lives. But most people don't care. They have their lives to live, mouths to feed, their local homes and neighborhoods to take care of. Caring about the suffering of millions of strangers thousands of miles away, regardless of species, isn't something we're good at, or care much for.
BOCTAOE
If Silicon Valley Buddhism (SVB, where this rhetoric comes from) was so effective it would have broader appeal. It’s useful to dissect why it works for HN people though.
SVB works because (1) Steve Jobs - it’s compatible with rich people crazy for whom limousine liberal is an insufficiently contrarian moral framework, and (2) it is a lot less partisan than all the other good reasons to not eat meat products, like your health and the environment.
Indeed the bigger story here is that anti-intellectualism has made it hard to be a vegan for health or environmental reasons around your Republican venture capitalists. However “minimizing harm to as many beings as possible” (as one Silicon Valley billionaire supervillain once put it to me) doesn’t sound like something couched in science. It sounds almost like pseudoscience, much like the bulletproof coffee or blue light avoidance crazes, something which specifically appeals to Republican finance types and therefore is an acceptable moral framework for SV’s only real god, the almighty dollar.
Fortunately the chickens could give less of a fuck why you stop eating them. So go “Buddhism.”
There were exceptions, but the food is generally bland, and one of these countries was Italy.
They really advertise the authenticity of ingredients, when they need to learn "salt, acid, sugar, msg, fat"
Similar experience in the other direction. Food in LA was incredibly overseasoned and in particular drinks like lemonade were extremely sweet. After a while I got used to it/had dulled my sense of taste so that this tasted "normal" and European food "bland". Luckily after some time without American food my sense of taste returned to normal.
I hate use of hyperbole like this. It conveys no more information than "tastes better, trust me ;)", but is dressed up like it's some sort of objective rigorous measurement.