They're not.
From the article "must come from Iberian blackfoot pigs that spend the last months of their lives eating acorns on the dehesa, a traditional Spanish or Portuguese pasture shaded by mature oak trees"
It's all of those conditions required. I'm not making any judgements, just pointing out.
> Martínez rejects the argument that, as a variety, the blackfoot pig can’t be protected by a denomination the way champagne and parmesan cheese are, pointing out that the Japanese wagyu enjoys just this sort of protection.
They are trying to set limits on where the pig is allowed to be brought. Not "the pigs must be from so-and-so region to be Iberian blackfoot pigs", but "Iberian blackfoot pigs must not be allowed to be exported [from Iberia I suppose?]". I'd say that copyright and software licenses are an apt metaphor for what they're trying to do.
I couldn't find figures, but remember from talks from producers that around 30-40% of Spanish Iberian Ham is actually from portuguese pigs raised in alentejo (the 90% figure above can be found in export reports, the 30-40% is hearsay from talking and negotiating with the producers a few years ago)
4-5 years ago I was working with a lot of breeders here, and they all complained that the 'low' development work was done by them, but the 'high' product as the smoked/dried hams were from spanish producers.
Portugal always had this issue where we can 'produce' the lower chain stuff, but getting into the higher chain marketplace has been an issue. It is a shame really.
But having said that, I lived in the south of Spain (andalucia) for a while, and I love you guys. Even if you pretend you don't understand us :P, it was some of the most fun and happy times I had.
("Remember, it's only tear gas if it comes from the Gazeuse Region of France and bears the CS label. Otherwise you're only being treated to sparkling mass repression at the hands of the State.")
Help help, I'm being repressed.