Think it's a mistake to consider GraphQL as a drop-in replacement for REST, writing a vanilla GraphQL server is indeed quite arduous as there is a lot of important concerns like auth that you don't get out the box.
But if you're just wanting to expose your database in a controlled and secure manner, with a smattering of business logic, think some of the technologies that have evolved around GraphQL like Hasura and PostGraphile can make it a joy to use.
Think the wonder is that the schema definition language/schema introspection wasn't just tacked on at the end (unlike REST w/ Swagger and OpenAPI) so all these tools have developed around the tech. There is also a bit less of an object relational mismatch than in REST.