If you're a hobbyist like me, you don't really care about spending $5 on a chip instead of $2 on a chip... especially when you're paying multiples of that for the PCB and other parts of the equation.
If you're a hobbyist like me, you don't really care about spending $5 on a chip instead of $2 on a chip... especially when you're paying multiples of that for the PCB and other parts of the equation.
I built a digital audio interface with an ADI ultra-low-noise clock generator. It was a $20 part. That's a ridiculous price but it's also only $20.
From the perspective of a hobbyist with limited space: you want to minimize the SKUs that you stock in your personal shelves. Buying a higher-end op-amp and spamming it everywhere (even when its specs aren't needed) is far simpler than buying 10x different op-amps at the $0.50, $1, $1.50, $2, $3, $4, and $5 price points.
Just keep a supply of higher-quality $5 rail-to-rail low-bias op-amps at the voltage-level (3.3V for most Arduino projects).
Yeah, there's probably a $0.50 op-amp that does the job. But do you really want to keep another SKU on your shelf and keep track of it? There's simplicity in just buying over-specced parts for personal hobby projects.
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Well... maybe keep a stock of the $0.50 stuff too (EDIT: Ah right, LMV358. That's the cheap part I keep around). But I think you get my gist. Personal-supply closet management is certainly a problem for the personal hobbyist.
Yes, it will work in general. Unless the expensive opamp has a significantly wider bandwidth, then one must use with caution. Switching from a low bandwidth opamp to a high bandwidth opamp is especially problematic, the loop characteristics are different and it may need additional frequency compensation or bandwidth limiting, the original layout may become inadequate, etc. More often than not, a blind replacement make it oscillate like crazy.
Sometimes having a bunch of cheap opamps makes life easier.
And financially - your heart and wallet won't start bleeding when your $0.5 opamp is unexpectedly zapped by ESD, cooked in soldering, or fried in an overload. Killing a $10 ASIC is a big deal (just did that last week while prototyping an ASIC controller, but there isn't anything cheaper on the market).
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