Air conditioning's original purpose was to enable factory processes
spectrum.ieee.org
spectrum.ieee.org
Anyway, that's just my story about humidity and printing. The second summer I worked there they had installed air conditioning and those problems went away. I'm sure they did it for business reasons and not because they thought it was cruel to force people to regularly work in 100+ fahrenheit temperatures.
Airflow inhibits a precise measurement, imagine you putt something in that room that changes the airflow just a bit, so more warm air from the ceiling hit's one side of the piece.
Always when you try to measure something, no outer energies should interfere (no temperature change and no force like airflow or even driving cars outside of the building), it could even be, that the airflow creates vibrations in the piece, like rolling cars do.
The real problem is that these types of adaptations are only in spec over some range. Any deviation from that range can be problematic and non-linear.
In one building, there was a long line of parcel trays, each carrying a single item. The trays would move fast down the line and, at just the right moment, tip the parcel out and into a bin below, each for a different flight. Because of the tray's speed (and the trays don't stop), the tipping needed to start well before it was over the bin, at a precisely calibrated time. A video of these machines is here, at 1m 45s: https://youtu.be/xytmh6t3Grk?t=105
It was one of the few sorting buildings that was air conditioned in the hot Memphis summers, and not for the humans. The humidity affected how quickly the parcels slipped off of the tray, and they might end up in the wrong bin.
There's something Puritan and not very well considered about viewing air conditioning as a new-fangled luxury while viewing heating as a necessity.
The answer is building codes that require energy efficient construction techniques, and 0% loans for retrofitting existing houses with better insulation, windows and heating (actually much of this exists via HEAT loans). Tax breaks would help here ...
Previously, the only real choices were some sort of fossil fuels with natural gas being the most efficient and cheapest (although it's only available in urban and most suburban areas).
These days, a heat pump is more than capable of both heating and cooling even in the depths of a New England winter (although you still need a heat source for hot water). However, you need the right sized ducting for this which can make it cost-prohibitive for a retrofit (but there's no reason why any _new_ house should NOT have a heat-pump).
Then, I learned that USA has near no cogeneration, and district heating + detached house living with mostly terrible insulation. Most North American apartments are no better, with most highrises looking like radiators.
Also, appartment buildings are far easier to heat, not to mention a lot of soviet era appartments only have communical heating available. Which basically means the heating gets turned on in oktober for entire city/appartment blocks, Some of those don't even have the option to change the temperate/flow.
In Russia, it's most likely an inverse of venue class. Malls, public venues, indoor markets, govt buildings all like to save on ventilation.
With slightly open windows, you're losing a bunch of heat for very little ventilation.
Many buildings in Denmark are supplied with heat (for room heating and hot water) by a municipal system, but each house or apartment can adjust the temperature of the room heating, with radiator valves or electronic thermostats.
We're charged based on how much heat we extract from the system.
Unless municipal hot water is somehow much more efficient than hot water heaters (and I'm skeptical, given the heat lost in transit), then it doesn't offset the costs per person, because those costs still have to be paid.
In principle you can do the same thing at a smaller scale. Instead of burning natural gas or diesel/home heating oil in a furnace, burn it in a generator and heat your house with the engine coolant.
https://goo.gl/maps/VmaFQrrX5VvRKFdu6
The plant generates so much waste heat (around 10 GW) while generating electricity that the heat loss in transport is pretty much irrelevant, as the heat is free anyway from the power plant's point of view.
I’ll never forget my first big winter storm thinking I was going to die of heat stroke because I had to shut the windows to keep the snow from blowing in. Some people on my floor would leave their window unit air conditioners in year-round to counteract the heat.
It was so wasteful and almost no one in the building had a comfortable temperature in their apartment all because it was cheaper/easier for management to just keep burning a ton of oil instead of investing in a bit of insulation.
Afterwards, I moved to a nicer but even older building where the landlord had bothered to retrofit a modern boiler with separate heating zones for the different apartments. Crucially, the radiators had new control valves the lines had modern insulation. It was like night and day. I think the retrofit cost over $10k, so like you said, the path of least resistance is often crappy heat.
Dan Holohan, for those interested. https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=18430512
Making old housing stock efficient at scale is fundamentally incompatible with the laws in MA (local as well as state) that make it possible to both make incremental improvements as budget allows and be on the right side of the law.
People suffer through expensive old utility systems because they can't do X without hiring a licenses pro who can't do Y without pulling a permit and the town won't grant a permit for Y unless Z that has to be touched do do Y is brought up to modern code at the same time which would be fundamentally incompatible (usually for cost reasons) with the goal of the work.
Incremental improvement is more or less disallowed by law or at least massively dis-incentivized. You either have the cash to completely renovate a building and put all new everything in or you do nothing.
In the case of my first apartment though I know for a fact my landlord had more than enough cash to update the building if she wanted to - her husband owns the Red Sox.
Are heatpumps always more economical than gas/oil? I know that natural gas almost always beats electrical resistive heaters in terms of cost, even though resistive heaters are more efficient than natural gas. Heatpumps are supposed to be more efficient than resistive heaters, but in areas with expensive electricity it still might be more expensive.
You have to be careful about what you measure. Resistive heaters are 100% efficient by definition, but you have to look at the whole chain. The energy has to be converted from X (coal, natural gas, isotopes decay) to electricity and transmitted to your home. Only the last step is 100% efficient. You lose a lot of energy in generation and transmission of electricity.
Natural gas is roughly $15 for 1 million BTU. There are 3412 BTU in a kwhr, so if you heated resistively, you'd need 293 kwhr to get 1 million BTU.
In my area, which I feel has pretty high electricity cost, we pay $.24 per kwhr, so that'd be $70.
Therefore, you need a 70/15 (4.666) COP for your heat pump to match natural gas by price. My understanding is that that would be an unusually high number for cold weather conditions.
https://www.nh.gov/osi/energy/energy-nh/fuel-prices/index.ht...
You can see that as of June 2, measured at $ per MMBTU (million BTU):
Natural Gas $8.31
Oil $17.62
Propane $32.93
Wood pellets $21.92
Resistive electric $48.84
Air src heat pump $18.74
The fossil fuels are all measured assuming 80% heating efficiency, whereas for propane or natural gas you might well have a high efficiency unit up to 97% which gains you a bit more savings.These prices may vary depending on location and also I think natural gas isn't that common in NH as it's a mostly rural state.
It's really hard to predict where prices are going to be in a year, because you really have to predict how well the oil industry can predict future demand in this environment. If they shut down too much production and then demand comes back there could be a price spike. If they expect a quick recovery and are wrong, prices could remain on the floor for a good while.
According to the NH page, that price was June 2. For the Commonwealth of MA, as of late May it was $2.07 on average and it's down 33% on last year:
https://www.mass.gov/service-details/massachusetts-retail-he...
You can see it has dropped from $3.04 on Jan 7 2020.
So if fuel prices and the amount of useful heat usage stayed the same, then your bill should be 1.03/1.25≈82% of what it was before. If your bill is "less than half" then something else must have changed.
Any modern boiler (gas or oil) will almost certainly be cold start, so it only fires when there's a call for heat. This alone probably saves a gallon of oil a day at least.
Having said that a typically, your system is designed for a 99% "heating" or "cooling" dry-bulb outside temp from the ASHRAE climatic design conditions based on your location.
For example. Boston (Logan Airport) the 99% heating temp is 12.3F, so you'd size and design your system for this to get your heated space to 70F. There's a secondary heat source that fires if the temps drop below this (which happens, the 99.6% heating temp for Boston is 7.4F and it often goes below 0F). This is often resistive, but could be a hydronic coil if you had an on-demand gas combi-boiler for hot water. This is also used in an air-source heat pump for de-icing the condenser. A ground source heat pump (aka geothermal) doesn't have this problem, but requires a well to be drilled (100ft per ton of heating/cooling) to provide ground water as a heat source.
I don't know how it works for blocks of flats.
The nice thing is, you don't need much room on site, you can even drill them into the basement after the foundation is done before the steel goes up.
With a split system, the heat-exchangers can be in the basement and the refrigerant (R410A) run to the air handlers located elsewhere.
Of course, the more you insulate the building, the less heating and cooling you need.
We used to live in 1800sqft house built in 1992 in the affordable neighborhood (so fiberglass bats in 4x2 walls). Gas heater, electric cooling. Gas water heater. Gas stove (we don't cook much, so this one probably doesn't have significant effect). We regularly got a bill over $250 in the summer for electricity + gas. Sometimes over $300. In the winter combined bill would be around $150. In summer second floor was never comfortable (part of it was poor circulation I am sure, but part of it was HVAC not cooling well enough)
We also just finished new 3100sqft house. The new place doesn't have natural gas, so we decided to go all-electric - water heater, HVAC, cooktop/ovens, and new addition - pool-heater. Our electric bill now fluctuates between $200 - $280 year around. All appliances, including water heater, are heat pumps. Extra bonus - garage, where the water heater is located, is cool during summer. Both water heater and HVAC has resistive heating elements for very cold days (we get enough of these to matter).
I am sure I can get average bill lower a bit if I tweak pool water and heat pumps schedule.
The house has open cell foam installed around the envelope (so the attic is alright to be in even during the hottest days) and we have forced ventilation (since the house is sealed essentially).
The water heater (80 gal) I bought myself and it was $900 on ebay. Similar product bought at Home Depot would cost probably $1,200 - $1,400. A bit more than natural gas heater, but not prohibitively so. HVAC installation (2.0 and 2.5 tons units) was under $20k for the whole house. Not sure how much traditional gas+electric non-heat-pump install would be, but I don't think it would be significantly cheaper.
So yeah, at least for southern places, heat-pumps appears to make a big difference.
Aside from being absolutely hideous, the unit was utter shit. The "heat" was mostly cold air in winter. The pump would turn on, and ducts' air was cold (being outside and all), cooling off the house MORE when it was already freezing. Eventually some lukewarm air would come in until the unit got too hot and would turn off, again pushing colder air back into the house. And in summer, the cool air was nowhere sufficient to cool the house. Your only bet would be to keep it on all day with all drapes closed, lights off, do not cook, and don't move around too much.
To contrast this, we generally used a wood stove to heat the house. A few logs would keep the house nearly uncomfortably warm for hours. In the summer, we ran an evaporative/swamp cooler. As long as there were no thunderstorms, the house was very pleasant. I cannot be convinced that heat pumps are the way to go.
Their main limitation is that they aren't effective in extreme cold. To pump heat there needs to be some to begin with. But most populated areas don't get that cold too often and they can be backed up by resistive heaters for the couple of nights a year when it is.
I've researched this a lot since I want to install one and live in a cold climate. The new ones can put out a lot of heat at low temperatures.
As an example, see the linked "AHRI Certificate" for the product below. It states:
- 11,800 BTU/h at 47 degrees fahrenheit
- 7,800 BTU/h at 17 degrees fahrenheit
I feel like I've even seen some that say they put out 100% of the rated heat at like 5 degrees fahrenheit.
You have to make sure you get a cold weather one, with a base pan heater. They're usually more expensive.
Here's one I've looked at for reference. It costs $300 more than the less extreme temperatures one. I don't think it comes with a base pan heater, but I'm not sure: https://senville.com/12000-btu-mini-split-air-conditioner-se...
Are you talking about air source or ground source? And by "the depths of a New England winter" do you mean temperatures below 50 F?
I lived in an apartment for a while that had some sort of heat pump, but there was a switch for "emergency" (i.e. resistive) heat that was necessary for any warmth in the winter.
I'm building a house where it can get to -35C at times (but usually above -20C in winter) and we will have an air source heat pump for hot water, heating and cooling [0]. Combined with good insulation and 10kW of solar on the roof, we should generate more electricity than we use over the year, and no need to burn any fossil fuels.
My wife has insisted we have a wood burning stove for atmosphere, so that will function as a backup heat source if needed, but most likely it will generate too much heat to be used regularly.
[0] https://www.daikin.eu/en_us/product-group/air-to-water-heat-...
But sure, the heat pump in your future home may well be much better than whatever they were doing decades ago. I don't know if my apartment used ground heat, but I doubt it.
[1] For example in Toronto, Ontario, the electric grid is fueled from hydro (and we get passive cooling from lake water). And yet, Toronto's urbanization is so intense (and still growing) so the city still needs to reduce the energy consumption of it's buildings to manage it's peak power consumption. And I would argue this still has a huge impact on CO2 emissions given the reduction of transportation emissions associated with high density areas.
Okay, the power company is named Toronto Hydro, but it buys electricity from whatever is available on the grid, be it hydro, gas, nuclear (Darlington wasn't built to power Ottawa...), wind (hello Chatham farmland!) or solar.
1. Waste heat from lights, equipment, and people is constantly offsetting the heating energy, and contributing to cooling energy. There's so much equipment in office/commercial buildings, it's common to need air conditioning all through winter.
2. It's not just air temperature difference, it's also about solar radiation gain. Even in cold climate zones the peak load for cooling is significantly higher then the peak load for heating.
> Waste heat from lights
Use LEDs and this is irrelevant for a home.
> people is constantly offsetting the heating energy
Insignificant in the scheme of things. Humans can’t even keep themselves warm when holding still in 50F.
> it's also about solar radiation gain.
Do you realize how little sun cities in the north get during the winter? Conversely, solar electricity can conveniently capture plenty of electricity quite near the time it’s required in the South.
Peak air con time is when there is solar radiation. Peak heating time is in the dead of night.
50,000-70,000+ people died in Europe in 2003 due to heat. “Gets hot/cold enough” eyeballing notwithstanding.
as others will point out, moving is not an option but improving energy sources and how its expended are the "well duh" means to manage it. the issue there of course is the scale is beyond what most can conceive and even some who think they understand the scale undershoot by a lot; akin to why some people wonder that it is so difficult to deliver high speed internet to everyone.
(Of course cooling could also be done with energy efficient city district cooling like they do in some places...)
I can't help but feel that coordinating those better would lead to reduced energy usage (thus reduced cost). I don't know if I can feasibly do that right now with residential/consumer tech.
https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/water-heating/heat-pump-w...
In my home, we leave the garage door open when it’s warm so the cold air that the heat pump water heater expels can come into the house.
It’s basically an air conditioner that dumps heat into the water, instead of the outside air.
Could we use the exhaust from your fridge, A/C, furnace, etc. to also heat coolant in a similar system that circulates to your pre-water heater, thus boosting efficiency. Especially if you can dump the exhaust of your fridge outside rather than paying to heat up that air, then cool in down again with your A/C.
The question is if the cost savings would be worth the cost of the system.
I think it might be, if it was built into the home from the beginning, and the engineering cost was spread out over a large number of units. In other words, I don't expect it to make sense for one homeowner to retrofit their house.
It would make more sense in a condo/apartment/multi-unit/commercial situation.
One of my uncles here in Canada built a passive system by just putting a giant 1" PVC tube coil on the backside of his roottop to heat up water for the swimming pool, since the swimmable season is pretty short anyway.
For residential, you could install faucets that had a internal heat exchanger that would let you have actually cold or hot water for cheaper than a traditional on-demand water heater. HVAC would be better as individual control of the heat for each room wouldn't add much extra cost, so your south facing rooms can get more cooling without having to freeze everyone in the other rooms.
For restaurants, the system would be particularly attractive as they can have heated/chilled food holding (and work surfaces) and they would be able to be swapped between the two by flicking a switch, so the winter menu (or the lunch menu even) could feature more hot items, and the summer (or dinner) menu more cold things without wasting capital (and space) on equipment that isn't used all the time.
Summertime is supposed to get a little warm :).
Eg: in Canada one can keep their home a few degrees cooler in the winter to save quite a bit of money. Same idea in hotter climates -- keeping it 75 instead of 70 is something one can acclimatize to, but has more value when the out door temperature is 100f vs 80f.
Overall I think it's just momentum. When I had a nest I used the dynamic range that said only cool if my place is over 78 and only heat if it's 68. Everything else, just roll with the ambient.
Said acclimatization normally comes with downsides... When its hot, one might be less productive, feel less motivated to get stuff done, etc. It's pretty hard to measure that cost on a personal basis.
I grew up in a house with air conditioning on all the time during the summer and thought that there was no way I could ever handle indoor temperatures of, say, 75. Then I spent a couple years in Arizona and wanted to save on AC costs in the summer, it took a while to get used to, but now an indoor temperature of 70 in the summer feels very cold to me.
Now I'm comfortable at 78 with a ceiling fan, to me 75 is cold and 70 would be freezing
Let's say it's 100°F, and you're outdoors for 2 hours. You feel lethargic and sapped of energy, and you look forward to going inside. When you finally do, you get a gigantic cold beverage, take off your shoes, plop down on the couch, and wait to feel normal again. It might take 30 minutes before you start to get there.
If it's 65°F inside, this process happens faster than if it's 75°F.
No doubt, the moment you get inside, you already feel better whether it's 65°F or 75°F because neither one is 100°F. But if you're alternating between inside and outside a lot, colder is still preferable.
A few days later the HVAC stopped working and what do we know, it's because of of ice buildup.
The other thing, the vent-ways are designed so my room on second floor has a floor-vent. This works for heating but not for cooling. The cool air that comes out of the vent stays in the region between the floor level and roughly 1 foot above it. So my feet are fine, but I'm otherwise feeling hot.
It's a straightforward solution that cooling-vent should be in the ceiling and heating vent on the floor. But it costs more to have this kind of installation that's why most landlords/home-owners don't go for it? I don't know.
Or maybe they like cooler temperatures. Kind of like how sometimes you see someone outside wearing a tshirt + shorts when the weather's only 50-60f. It's only absurd if they've set the temperature low AND they're shivering or wearing a jacket/sweater/blanket.
I can't imagine there are many people panting in their warm houses though.
(Relatedly, I wonder what effect the current pandemic will have on the modern trend of well-sealed homes...)
Every apartment I've lived in around NY and North NJ was like this. All had steam radiator heaters, and the heating was so hot, especially in the fall and spring, that you controlled the temp by opening or closing the window over the radiator. All but one also had single pipe radiators[0], so you couldn't turn them down with the valve or you'd end up filling the radiator with water and breaking the system.
However parts of NYC do still have steam heating powered by a central plant (mostly ConEd iirc) so in the end it might actually end up more efficient with the windows open than having a per unit heater.
Edit: Wikipedia link on NYC's system https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_City_steam_system
I guess it's just Manhattan that has central steam, but it also provides cooling via absorption chillers and steam for disinfection. Also much of this steam is basically a waste product of electricity generation, so the actual efficiency may be even higher.
Edit 2: I also found and article in NY Times that supports the spanish flu as the reason for this, and also describes 1 vs 2 pipe systems.
[0] https://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/13/realestate/radiators-stea...
Here's an interesting article about Spanish flu and radiators: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2014-02-17/our-indis...
"engineering manuals from the 1920s dictated that radiators and boilers be manufactured large enough for 'the coldest day of the year, with the wind blowing, and the windows open.'" (!)
We're building 600 hp electric cars these days.
A lot of builders in humid climates will install AC and central dehumidification, which can work better. In theory, one can tweak the indoor heat exchanger temperature to change the sensible vs latent cooling ratio, and there is at least one obscure heat pump vendor that claims to do this on the fly. I don’t know how well it works in practice.
For areas where its not 90+ out for 8+ months a year, a large part of the comfort of the newer systems (and their larger SEER ratings) is that they can run at 1/2 speed (or whatever) to keep the AC unit running longer. Plus they are frequently sold with duct work upgrades.
This is also why a "properly sized" system with a high EER can frequently save money over a high SEER system with a lower EER in FL/TX/LA/MS/etc.
The problem though is that pretty much 100% of AC companies are just going to put in the same size system as they took out, and the home builders are just seat of the pants overspecing everything. It should be possible to determine heat load, and TXV flow/etc over a year, and then come back and resize the condenser/evaporator/airflow to go just slightly over the worse case. But no one is going to do that, and if they mess up and the customer can't keep the house at 78F when its 110 out, its going to be a costly problem to fix. So, better to just overbuild everything and deal with the significant efficiency decrease.
30 years before Carrier, Carl von Linde was refrigerating beer for Spaten Breweries and within 10 years everybody was doing it. It seems like the key difference is that his chiller was indirect, freezing water instead of chilling air.
I think I first heard of this on Connections 3, which of course makes these connections because that's what they do.
It seemed to be due to beliefs, as the locals said they were afraid of getting sick due to AC -- while I don't disagree improper maintenance can provide breeding grounds for a bunch of microbes, just do the scheduled maintenance and everything will be fine!
14000+ dead in France that year...
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x68uf3j
He says it was for treating malaria though.
I can't believe I glossed over how racist Lovecraft was when I read this in my teens.
And why is your handle a typo away from the respected MalwareBytes name? (Other than to sow confusion, of course)
In 1902 the factory’s operators asked Willis Haviland Carrier (1876–1950)... I guess he's FROM Buffalo, but created it FOR the place in Brooklyn. Good to know the details of this little trivia piece now.
https://www.bizjournals.com/buffalo/blog/the_last_laugh/2011...
In fact, in Congress each state contributes two statues to the National Statuary Hall Collection. One of Florida's is of John Gorrie -- that's how much state pride is taken in it.
(The ability to wirelessly integrate with a standard thermostat would also be nice; I'm currently hacking that together using ESP32 modules.)
But already the ancient egyptians used evaporative cooling for their homes.
And with an even looser definition, we might include root cellars. They are also rooms with controlled temperature and humidity, dating even further back than ancient egypt.
Although more comfortable for crew, they lost bunk space for the AC equipment.
They have layers of insulation for both thermal and acoustic reasons.
Subs and torpedos are interesting to study since navies and inventors really struggled to make viable models, and probably a higher percentage of sub pioneers died than in aviation, which is saying something.
Side note: as a non-native speaker I’m always shocked by these basic errors made by natives, even more when they’re so prominent: here it’s the very first word of the lead.
Edit: as pointed in the comment the author is not a native. This was a general remark.
The only people using datum in the singular and data in the plural are academics and Latin aficionados.
The fact that the real cost driver was industrial is interesting. But improvement of the human condition has been ever about the follow-on uses of some new gadget, from fire for heat to whoever decided to cook food using the heat from fire.
I'm not native speaker and my text likely contains a lot of errors. For example I fix spell errors, because browser underlines them instantly, I'd fix grammar errors and may be I would develop some kind of grammar literacy after some time with proper computer assistance.
And that's sad, especially since it leads to more ambiguity in sentences.
Bob's purpose vs. It's purpose
For consistency, shouldn't we use: Bobs purpose
Funnily enough, if their name was Bobs then the possessive would be Bobs', but you'll see natives use Bobs's and even say "Bobses" (Gollum like) as it's confusing even for us. That kind of consistency isn't a strength of the language, and the education system is failing too many people (that's a whole other discussion).
Actually, no; s’ is for possessives of plural nouns ending in s (well, an s or z sound, which might be an s, x, or z, but usually for a plural will be an s, and most plurals ending with s won't have it silent, but...); plural nouns not ending in s or singular nouns, including those ending in s, get ’s.
Except for the special rules for classical and Biblical names, where then the number of syllables in the base name (which then makes the s or z sound rule more interesting, because names ending with silent s, x, or z are a thing) becomes relevant because English.
https://www.merriam-webster.com/words-at-play/what-happens-t...
> as it's confusing even for us.
True, that.
Those style guides also mention many more special cases, like "the students' questions" (but "the dutchess's hat", because students is plural and dutchess is singular) and even break that down to the case where the next word starts with s, like "the dutchess' style".
Basically, it is not by any means clear cut.
Generally, nouns can go from the nominative (subjective) case to the independent genitive (possessive) case by adding an apostrophe. If a word ends in "s", then the apostrophe goes after that "s". If the word does not end in "s", then you add an apostrophe, followed by an "s" after the end of the word.
A pronoun is treated differently than a proper or common noun when being used in its genitive case. Pronouns have declension (inflection) that can change their endings so they become different words.
For example, we can decline the pronouns to show possession using any of these cases:
Accusative (objective) case / Possessive Adjective case / Genitive (possessive) case
me / my / mine
you / your / yours
it / its / its
her / her / hers
him / his / his
us / our / ours
them / their / theirs
Case 1.* "The dog belongs to _"
Case 2. "This is _ dog".
Case 3. "That dog is _".
In all of these cases, a pronoun does not take an apostrophe, unlike you would see with common/proper nouns.
Note that this can apply to more than just the noun, in the case of "The Queen of England's dress", where Queen does not take the
As a native speaker, it bothers me quite a bit.
It's a typo. The author goes on to use "its" correctly the rest of the post.
As a grammar nazi myself, being a typo nazi annoys me. It's as useful to the discussion as getting on your case for using the U+2019 quotation mark instead of an apostrophe in your contraction of "they’re" and "it’s" in your comment.
And I've often seen autocorrect try to turn a correct "its" into an incorrect "it's" or vice versa.
At least grammar nazis can tell themselves that they're spreading wisdom.
On the plus side, it gets me to double check that I did it right. But it’s still really annoying!
It seems that the opposite is true. ' indicates a contraction first, and possibly a possessive iff no such contraction exists.
John's not sure he agrees.
No longer of course, the latter isn't grammatically correct in modern English. But that's where it comes from.
It is, actually. It's just best avoided due to confusion unless you're doing it for quoting or dialogue purposes.
https://www.writersdigest.com/write-better-fiction/contracti...
U+2019 is the preferred character to use for apostrophe according to the Unicode standard [1][2].
To stay on the point: I agree it’s annoying to be annoyed by such small, irrelevant details. I wish I could unlearn my {grammar,typo}-naziness most of the time.
[1]: https://www.fileformat.info/info/unicode/char/2019/index.htm [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apostrophe#Unicode
After some years of living in an English speaking country, I started to make these native errors myself. Maybe they are not native, after all.
English spelling is badly in need of reform.