Those two extremes hate on each other a lot, and this also spills out into annoyance at Scala not being ever more perfect for one of those extremes at the expense of the other. Then there are career enterprise Java programmers who are fine with Java and make it Scala's fault.
Scala community is not a monoculture, it's a refuge for different people with different ideas, and the vast majority of its users are quite happy with it and with each other.
But that also means that different Scala teams work differently, everyone's experience with Scala is greatly affected by the preferences of the developers they're working with. Everyone mostly agrees what a React.js application should look like. Not the same for Scala. You're going to have a tough time working with a Hascalator codebase if that's not how you think.
With preferences-compatibility warning in mind, Scala is still amazing for complex projects thanks to its rich type system and language features as long as everyone's on the same page for how they want to use Scala. And yes, it's overkill for your microservice that has seven classes and a plain JSON HTTP API. Use node or go or whatever for that kind of thing.
Scala is doubly amazing for complex full-stack projects thanks to Scala.js. These days I basically choose my stack from either full stack JS or full stack Scala depending on project complexity.
It's true but not unexpected that Scala 3 is taking a while. Good things take time. And once again, the amount of whining on the scala internet even about things like Dotty not being officially called Scala 3 (until that inevitably happened) was insane.
If you want to learn a safe-bet language strictly for career purposes, I'm not sure about Scala. The ecosystem is mature, the jobs pay well, and the users are very qualified on average in my experience, but it's a more niche job market than react/redux/node.js and all the other hip stuff. If you want to learn Scala for any other reason though, go ahead, it can be fun and productive. Odersky's coursera course is a great introduction.