I find that what keeps me at a workplace are the relationships that I form there. When I enjoy the company of the people that I work with, then I enjoy coming to work, even if the work itself leaves a bit to be desired.
I guess that this perhaps implies that communication is good and so all the desirables (code ownership, reviews, transparency, clarity of responsibilities etc) fall out as a result of a group of people relating well.
So, it's the relationships, more than anything else, I think.