What most people discover to be the greatest benefit of using an ORM is the "mapper" bit (converting tabulated data into an object graph and visa versa) and, to a lesser degree, change-tracking.
Somewhat ironically, the overwhelming majority of the time criticism of ORMs is directed at neither of the above, instead pointing to query performance.
You can have data mapping, you can have change-tracking, you can even have schema migrations without opting-in to the pain points many ORMs introduce because these are all somewhat orthogonal concerns.
At the end of the day there is very little to be saved between writing:
users->where(u => u.name === "John")
and SELECT * FROM users WHERE [name] = 'John'
Often, as queries become more complex, the SQL is actually a shorter expression than whatever query DSL comes with the ORM.I think that the "query builders" though are just one piece of the ORM that you mention, alongside the change-tracking, data mapping, etc. Having a decent query builder that isn't abstracting away too much of the underlying sql (essentially just mapping 1-to-1) plus data mapping are the sweet spot for me personally.
Interestingly, it is this exact property (composition) that creates the most common problems when using an ORM.
Composition is often at odds with optimization.
Under the hood many[0] ORMs simply construct a query similar to my example above and then convert result set of tabulated strings to the appropriate types (usually using reflection).
This means two things:
First, that the "type-safety" portions of an ORM are really located in the "mapping" code, so not really related to querying.
And second: you don't really have type safety. A database schema could change at any time and break the code even if static analysis seems to think it should work.
[0] Notable exceptions are languages that offer type providers (e.g. F#) but I digress