How to make pizza like a Neapolitan master
bbc.com
bbc.com
The dough recipe from the article is pretty legit and exactly the way I do it at home; the main problem I see is that it would be pretty hard to find good Mozzarella or Fiordilatte cheese (Fiordilatte di Agerola is slightly drier than Mozzarella, therefore producing less liquid in the oven, and also costs less), and I find that pizza done according to the Neapolitan recipe loses much when using a different kind of cheese.
A pet peeve of mine is that many recipes, while getting most of it right, use instant yeast; an important part of Neapolitan pizza is the slow dough rise using very little amounts of yeast, that should take from a minimum of 7/8 hours to an entire day or more (of course by storing it in a fridge).
It looks like it can also refer to instant active yeast, i.e. dehydrated beer yeast, that should actually be fine as far as I can tell (I have no idea of exact proportions however).
That being said, you can probably use a smaller amount of instant yeast, it definitely shouldn't be replaced as a 1:1 with regular yeast as the fermentation time is an integral part of the flavour profile.
Everytime I hear someone say things about units, it is not that people don't understand - there are other issues around that. For example, Americans know that metric system is better but they can't just switch solo until the entire nation changes which is a huge task.
Furthermore, those people who gawk at Americans still use 360 degrees for a full circle, 24 hour segments in a day and other weird units - for e.g. Switzerland still uses points for fonts! Not mm.
I would go ahead and even say - Metric system is based on base 10 which sucks, we should rewind back the history and grow 12 fingers because Duodecimal system is far better than decimal system: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duodecimal
We are just stuck with base 10. Just like Americans are stuck with their archaic units. It has nothing to do with the fact that people are smart/dumb. I am gonna push back on that nonsense.
Anybody who deals with typography in any professional capacity does so. It is the normal, not some obscure Swiss habit.
It is sometimes hard to get rid of 100+ years of history, in the case of typography thats probably longer.
In practice, I constantly use both. To some extent it depends on the packaging of the ingredients, which may use either unit.
When measuring small things, it's only practical to use teaspoons and fractions, but otherwise I weigh everything. I even tend to weigh liquids in dry ounces sometimes, as I've memorized 8 fluid ounces = 8.337 dry ounces.
Using different measuring systems is no more of a mark of inferiority than using different languages. And similarly to languages, modern technology makes it fairly easy to translate even if you don't know.
It is definitely a misconception that you don't see metric measurements in the US. They're everywhere, including your car, school, stores...
I bought a second kitchen scale to deal with the minute quantities, since my old one is accurate to only 1g.
It's one of those pitfalls, kind of like having your tire pressure off by 1.5 psi* at a cars and coffee...
*https://jalopnik.com/how-not-to-explain-why-you-crashed-your...
I'm not sure if you have ever been to NYC but an interesting observation I have had with Gino Sorbillo is the pizza in Napoli is very good, but he/they opened a restaurant in NYC and it's absolutely average at best.
I assume they import everything, but quality wise, the places are polar opposites.
Also curious your thoughts of Da Michele?
On the Netflix show ugly delicious one of the chefs explain supposedly in Naples chefs will choose their mozzarella freshness by the hour (e.g. 6 hours or 12 hours) but to make "authentic" Neapolitan pizza with Neapolitan mozzarella you're not going to get Mozzarella fresher than 7 days old...
Bingo. Produce and ingredients are generally very high quality in Italy, because people care about and make their purchases based on that, rather than simply looking at how much they're getting at a given price and how good it looks on the shelves.
the cheese is the hardest part of the pizza to replicate outside of italy for sure, you can easily buy high quality imported olive oil, flour, and san marzano tomatos.
Japan have decent local dairy (Hokkaido milk) and their overall attitude to produce is similar to Italy which probably is a big contributor to their food culture
And for a different type of pizza but honestly my favorite pizza on Earth, try the Portobello pizza at Mediterraneo on the UES. They have no idea how good that pizza is otherwise they'd turn the whole place into a pizzeria and just do that everyday
I think that heavily depends on where your circle is eating at in both places.
Bland will NOT be your problem.
However, you have to understand that a lot of the US really doesn't deal well with food that isn't bland--a holdover from WWII rationing and canned foods, probably. IIRC, McDonalds(?) went through a huge engineering process to attempt to add an ingredient to their pipeline. They found that adding cucumber was fine, but avocado was a step too far for the midwest.
That's something I'd love to read in more details about. Personally, I'd say avocado is a step too far in anything that isn't fruit salad. But so is (pickled) cucumber. I wish they'd remove it from their burgers altogether. The reasoning is, pickled cucumber overwhelms everything else with its sour flavor. McD burgers I experienced (in several countries, Europe and Asia) have a balanced composition of tastes, and that slice of cucumber there is as if someone threw a grenade into it. I usually hunt it down and eat it with my first bite, so that I can enjoy the rest of the burger in peace.
this has definitely happened to tomatoes. Supermarket tomatoes vs heirloom varieties are night and day
Leopard spots, also called "maculatura" or "mako" in some pizza-lovers forums, is considered by some a mark of perfect maturation of the "panetto" (the little bread, i.e. the dough used for a single pizza); to be honest it's quite a mystery to me how to obtain a good one, and as it often happens in this matters reality tends to conflate with legend: I've also heard sometimes that it is a sign of temperature mismanagement of the panetto, and I am not experienced enough to have a say on this :)
Also if you want a good guide for NY style pizza then this is a good read.
What is this, that it's 'on'? In the UK a grill is the hot element you put something under, in the oven. 'Broiler' in America I believe. I realise you're not in the UK ('500F'), but what then is this grill, that's clearly not the same?
> not heating up the house
An outdoor covered barbecue/smoker/pizza oven type thing?
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Outdoor-Cooking-Grills/...
The oven has the classic broiler, like you.
Some Americans will call it a barbecue too, but barbecue should really be equivalent to smoker.
https://www.eater.com/2018/2/23/17025722/ugly-delicious-pizz...
I don't especially care whether or not my results would ore wouldn't pass Neaopolitan milspec.
My second favorite is in Switzerland of all places, in the small town of Meilen. Amazing toppings too. But I went there once since the start of the lockdowns, and it didn't taste as good. I don't know if it's the pandemic leaving a bitter taste, or just an issue for their supply chains...
Now, the amount of moisture a flour will absorb depends on many things, including its age, source and your climate. I'm in an arid region of Canada, and our flours are typically harder than most. Having said that, I'm lucky enough to have access to relatively fresh, locally milled flour.
So as I said, this moisture ratio looked off to me compared to what I usually bake with.
At 300 ml of water, I didn't even get a dough that would combine. I added about a tablespoon and a half of extra water, and still got a much firmer dough than I would usually want. After resting for 20 minutes, folding it left creases as it wouldn't stick to itself.
I've got it rising now, so we'll see if it still turns out, but if you're trying this with typical American store-bought 0 or 1 flour, I would recommend starting with 5-10% more water and adding flour if necessary once it's combined.
This is gospel for pizza. My wife used to run a NYC-style pizza place in college, and later a chain pizza place, and they both had 24-72 hour slow proofs in the fridge. In other words, they mixed the dough and let it rise, very slowly, in the fridge for 2-3 days before using it. Kenji Lopez-Alt has similar advice in his pizza articles.
It's fetishism. It's sought because it has cultural cachet, it's hard to obtain, it's 'authentic', etc.
Totally agree. There's beauty in such crazy pursuits, don't you think?
I shared the link in the spirit of HN, knowing this place is full of people who enjoy chasing obsessions that are risky, or just because, or because someone said it was impossible.
Long live kitchen hackers with zero sense! It's always enriching and occasionally successful. :-)
What I'm currently experimenting with to solve this problem is to put the pizza on a flat, heavy and preheated iron pan or plancha and heat it at maximum power on the induction stove for 3 minutes to get the metal really hot. Then I put it in the oven at 300 °C for around 10 minutes. Doesn't produce perfectly charred pizza but comes a lot closer to what you can achieve with a real pizza oven. Still I'm not fully satisfied with the result, so thanks for the article link, I'll definitely try to apply some tricks mentioned there!
How long does a gas cylinder last?
edit: I also dreamed for years of building a wood-fired oven, but I'm totally happy with the gas one. The way I can make myself a pizza in 25 minutes start to finish is hard to argue with. People ask me if the lack of smoke in the oven makes for a subpar pizza, but in my opinion it makes no difference. The oven is so hot that any smoke in a wood-fired oven is well above the pizza. It's just the heat you need.
1: The exact brand is a Kamado ceramic grill.
- The base is better on the wood fired oven. The Kodas stone doesn't get hot enough. I've read recommendations to replace the stone with a steel, because it's more conductive.
- The koda heats up in a timescale I'm ok with. Like, 20 minutes. For the wood fired oven, it usually takes about 2 hours for the oven itself to be hot enough, but you really want the oven to be completely saturated with heat. This can take over 4 hours.
- I've had the Koda about 6 months now, and used it about 20 times. It hasn't really registered on the meter attached to my 13 kg gas bottle, and this is the only thing I use it for. I'm not at all concerned about the gas usage, even when its used a refill is cheap.
- The wood oven, in contrast, goes through wood significantly faster than our wood burning stove.
- I can do more with the wood oven, like bread, or roasts. The profile of the Koda means my normal cookware doesn't fit, and while I'm ok with buying Ooni's low profile cast iron, I just haven't done it yet. That said, while I like the idea of cooking food under real fire with smoke and intense direct heat, I don't see that with essentially a big gas oven. I have other tools.
- I can take the Koda anywhere, but when my parents move house there's no chance the wood oven moves.
I had a piece of steel on a propane grill before, and the lid of the grill warped pretty significantly from it.
Without moisture, you can cook the pizza longer, at a lower temperature.
I combine this with Kenji Lopez-Alt's "no hack pizza" method: the pizza is cooked on a stone in a heavy cast iron skillet. To make the pizza, pull the skillet out of the oven, and put it on the stove at the highest setting your stove goes to (preferably a gas stove). Make the pizza in the skillet, then return the whole thing to the oven.
> THE PIZZA LAB
> J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT
https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2013/01/foolproof-pan-pi...
I still continue to use my oven at times, especially when the weather isn't helping. The broiler is helpful there with a pizza stone.
No matter what I use, it's a fine dance to get things right. Sometimes it comes out great, especially when I give things a few days to cold-rise in the fridge. Usually something goes wrong, either too burnt, not fully cooked, or simply not enough pizza :)
Then when it is as hot as it's going to get, slide the pizza on to the steel/pan/whatever and switch the oven to high broil. The heat from the baking steel cooks from the bottom and the broiler hits it from the top, delivering high heat on both sides.
I can get a pretty solid pizza in 5 minutes and there are lots of variations on this method (broil for a few min, switch to bake for the last few, etc) but you can play around with your oven and setup to get the best results.
This[0] is the kind of results I'm able to get in a normal Ikea electric oven that maxes out at 250 C. Another thing you can do with it is experiment with a Weber-like barbecue...
He was using a regular home oven, subverting the cleaning cycle: "The cabinet of most ovens is obviously designed for serious heat because the cleaning cycle will top out at over 975 which is the max reading on my Raytec digital infrared thermometer. The outside of the cabinet doesn't even get up to 85F when the oven is at 800 inside. So I clipped off the lock using garden shears so I could run it on the cleaning cycle. I pushed a piece of aluminum foil into the door latch (the door light switch) so that electronics don't think I've broken some rule by opening the door when it thinks it's locked. ..."
Scroll down to "4- The Oven" in http://www.varasanos.com/PizzaRecipe.htm
Impressive dedication, which he eventually turned into a restaurant: http://www.varasanos.com/
"I clipped off the lock using garden shears"
Then again I also think the dough my Zojirushi bread machine turns out, left to rest overnight in the fridge, is close enough to my hand-made dough that I don't really bother with the latter anymore. So maybe I'm just not very discerning. My pizza's definitely better than all but the highest-end, fancy-pizza-oven places locally, though.
Stovetop start in cast iron is great for pan-style pizza, though. Heat the oven, build the pizza (on oil) in the pan, heat it 'till it sizzles for a minute or so, then in the oven, broiler to finish the top when you think it's getting close to done. Way less clean-up and lower equipment requirements than a stone-and-peel bake.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/bakingsteel/baking-stee...
https://www.spaccanapolipizzeria.com/
Supposedly, the owner shipped in Italian raw materials for the clay oven, as well as Italian masons to build it. I don't know that the oven is the reason for why their product is so good, but it is just miles apart from any other type of pizza in Chicago.
They also have wines that can't be found anywhere else in the US.
If you want a much quicker fermentation, You can use between 15g and 25g of yeast. Put a couple teaspoons of sugar to let the yeast work better, and make sure the water is between 20°C and 45°C.
But the most interesting idea for home baking is the "double fermentation": let the dough rest for about one hour in a slightly warm environment (20°C - 40°C - usually that means starting the oven for one minute, then turning it off and putting the covered dough in). Then prepare the base for the pizza on your baking tin, but DO NOT PUT anything on it; instead, leave it for 30-45 min more resting in the oven. Then, extract it, put the tomato and other things, and cook it.
No offence intended, I'm genuinely curious; isn't pizza a southern thing? This reads to me like a person from the northern US weighing in on BBQ. It's perfectly allowed, but why qualify with northern?
The US is much larger than Italy, you know!
By the way, I qualified as "Northern" exactly for the "southern thing" reason. Pizza is an italian staple and, as such, different regions have different recipes and dough styles - not just trying to imitate the "original" version. Such original version is Neapolitan pizza, which is indeed very good.
But it's hard to bake a true Neapolitan pizza at home. Would you prepare your dough 24 hours before? Have you got the right temperature where to leave it? Does your oven reach 450°C ? So I chimed in with some suggestions to bake a good pizza at home - and, as far as I know, most people use a variation of such recipe when at home. Including people from Neaples!
I wasn't commenting on the perfect dough for the perfect Neapolitan pizza for a pizzeria; that's far beyond my competence levels.
EDIT: after all, from my comment it COULD look like I was commenting on the "Neapolitan master" pizza recipe; that was not my intention. My bad. My suggestion is valid for HOME BAKING.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_TDukylKSj/
We made it in a regular home oven but on maximum temperature of 285°C (545°F) and broiler on. It takes no more than 2-3 minutes.
We followed this recipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-SJGQ2HLp8
This isn't mentioned in the linked BBC article, but both http://www.varasanos.com/PizzaRecipe.htm and http://www.perfekte-pizza.de/ swear by it, and I think it has made a noticeable difference to my dough.
One of my favorite things about going to Italy is the quality of the coffee. I really like extreme dark roast (your typical American diner coffee doesn't even count as coffee in my book). In Italy you can go into pretty much any coffee shop and come away with a top-quality espresso. (Don't even get me started on Starbucks.) It's a taste I inherited from my parents, who have European roots.
Now, my parents are seriously old-school. They still live in the house I grew up in, a house they bought new in 1975 and pretty much never updated. It still has the original flower-pattern wall paper. Walking into their house today feels like stepping into a time machine that transports you to an episode of the Brady Bunch. And in their kitchen is a 40-year-old Mr. Coffee which my father loves to futz with. On a good day he can coax it into producing an acceptable cup of joe, but that's about it. So for their 50th anniversary I decided I was going to buy them a proper espresso machine.
Now, I know next to nothing about espresso except that I love to drink it, so I started doing some homework and very soon got lost in a morass of coffee geekdom. The range of options available in the espresso machine market is truly mind-boggling, as are the prices. I didn't mind dropping some serious coin (this was their 50th anniversary after all) but I wanted to make sure I was actually getting something for my money. So I decided to do some experiments.
At the time I worked in a co-working office that had a high-end espresso machine (retail price $5000) and several Italians so I asked one of them to show me how to make a proper espresso. I wanted to use the espresso that came out of the office machine as a baseline and compare it to what I could make on a less expensive machine to see if the machine actually made a difference. "The first thing you have to do," he told me, "is to get the right beans. You have to go to this little specialty shop that's a half-hour drive away and get this particular brand of beans..." which, of course, cost $50 a pound or something absurd like that. But I love my parents, so I dutifully complied.
Proper beanage having been procured, we spent several hours brewing espresso with just about every possible variation on the theme you could imagine. Different grinds (we had a high-end burr grinder in the office too), different packings, different machine settings. Not once did we manage to produce a cup that any of us considered even remotely drinkable. It was all acidic and awful, probably because the machine had never been cleaned since it was installed god-only-knows how many years before.
I ended up getting them a Keurig. I got one for myself too. It makes a decent cup of coffee, but nothing compared to what you find in Italy. It is still a mystery to me how the Italians manage to produce such consistently good coffee, but only in Italy. When they come to the U.S. they seem to lose the touch. Maybe there's something in the water.
It's such an ordinary, day to day gesture, making a moka when you have a little bit of free time, that I have yet to find an Italian "coffee geek".
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moka_pot [2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neapolitan_flip_coffee_pot
I thought they use moka pots. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moka_pot
Easy to clean, easy to use, doesn't burn the coffee, like a percolator inevitably will.
Renato Bialetti, which I was lucky enough to greet, got his ashes put in an oversized moka pot, which was blessed during his funeral[0]. He was known for driving some of his factory workers out for lunch on Fridays, on his expensive car.
[0] https://www.corriere.it/cronache/16_febbraio_16/funerali-bia...
basket or collecting chamber? I hope they didn't brew it afterwards...
https://medium.com/@sonicaghi/why-is-espresso-in-america-so-...
Even the fanciest pourover funnel costs only 50 dollars, but you can certainly get by with a cheap plastic one for a few bucks. If you want to go full hipster, you will also need a temperature controlled electric kettle, and a scale to exactly portion out your coffee.
Then of course there is the grinder. If you are patient enough to hand grind, you can get a Hario ceramic manual grinder for $50 that produces a high quality grind. Otherwise, a quality electric grinder will be more expensive.
All and all, a hipster pourover setup will cost you less than $500 if you go all in. I don't use a scale, a temperature control, or a fancy grinder - I just use a cheap grinder and eyeball my beans, while pouring boiled water over them, so my whole setup cost me about $50 dollars. That coffee still blows the pants off Keurig any day of the week, and I can compost my filters so I am not filling a hole in our planet with a tiny plastic cup every time I want a coffee.
That's the key. When I buy mid-range beans (usually what I do—the good stuff's expensive) my pourovers are really just manual drip coffee. Fine, but just... coffee. When I use really good beans, though? It's a whole different drink. All kinds of nuance and delicate flavors.
The tiers I've found are basically: truly bad coffee; a very large range of coffees that pretty much all just taste like "alright coffee" and for me this goes as low as Kirkland-brand ground coffee and as high as... well, the "nicest" whole-bean coffee Costco sells, differentiated mostly by bitterness levels or burntness; and then the good stuff that doesn't even really belong in the same category of product as the rest, purchased in small quantities, very freshly roasted.
It could well be that Italy's espresso beans are much higher quality at the same price than those in the US. That's the case for some other things in other countries—rich ones, even, not just places with much lower GDP/capita (I still don't get why we can't seem to bake a good loaf of bread at a reasonable price, which also has the effect that our sandwiches tend to either suck or be really expensive—see also, cheese).
> and a scale to exactly portion out your coffee.
You're gonna want a scale if you do much cooking, anyway. Especially baking.
The problem is not so much roasting but getting the beans. Many roasters just wont get to the best stuff from Africa because of limited supply so it makes sense that richer countries snatch the material because they can charge more.
I can imagine US also can afford the best beans so i bet the high high quality is pretty top notch but ive never had US coffe in my life.
It's the same thing with beer and Germany. The average beer in a random town brewery somewhere in Germany is tastier than a Budweiser, but as a beer lover, I would much rather end up at a beer bar with a 100 different beers on tap in a place like London or New York.
The interesting twist with Germany is that the same beer purity laws that originally allowed them to become a beer leader in the world are now holding them back in the craft beer revolution.
They can break those rules all they want and just not call what they're making "beer", right?
Besides traditions the craft beer "revolution" is due to hops. US climate and innovation brought new hop varieties that are crutial. To make craft beer you pretty much have to import US hops.
But yeah that also means that there is someone obsesive in every bigger city trying to get the best stuff world has to offer.
In so many ways the tradition in italy holds it back in coffe world and holds Germany in beer world. But even the German/Czech beer purity laws are not the real problem its the tradition. It's hard to inovate when beer is super popular but everybody thinks beer equals lager. It's conservatism.
You can find good roasted coffee of many types in most of these places.
But if you need an espresso or any other Italian styled coffe. Nothing can beat Italy.
I admit one exception: Portugal. In a long trip to Lisbon I’ve done I had some of the best coffee there !
Edit: still using my 18yr old Bialetti for most of my coffee here and buying coffee when going back occasionally (ever brought back a trolley full of coffe through airport security checks?). Only reliable way so far to have decent coffee.
London is i think the original place from where high end coffe culture spread out to europe and where idea of small independent roasters came from.
I often buy coffee from London when i can get it. Square Mile, Has Bean, Union Coffee, Caravan coffee all mostly highest quality stuff.
Funnily enough i've lived in portugal for a while and coffee was so bad i had hard time finding good beans. Luckily some cafes were importing stuff but no roasters.
Look around a bit you can for sure find awesome cafes in London. If not there than probably nowhere. I posted few of my fav London roasteries to comment under this one.
Setup:
Hario v60 ~ $20
Pour Over Filter ~ $10
Grinder - $30 (already had)
Kitchen Scale - $10 (already had)
This guide is a good start: https://www.stumptowncoffee.com/brew-guides/v60
I dare say that if you are capable of following instructions, and have $15 to invest into a freshly roasted bag of beans from a coffee shop, then your coffee is exactly the same quality as to what you would get from a high end coffee shop. The only difference is that the coffee shop will charge you up to 5 dollars for a fancy pourover, while your 15 dollar bag of beans will last you several weeks.
I think Aeropress easily rivals or beats a cup of coffee I've had a "great" coffee shops, if you use good beans. But even grocery store coffee is better in the Aeropress than a cheap auto-drip machine.
I grew up in an Italian household with both parents Italian immigrants and have a large extended Italian family.
It would have been an embarrassment to be unable to make a quality espresso.
I never drank any coffee/espresso beverages growing up and it was seen as a rejection of my family's culture, yet despite not consuming it I still was taught how to make espresso and would do it regularly for my parents.
Cuisine is a big part of Italian culture. We didn't go to restaurants because they made food better than we did at home because they were professionals, we'd go to give my mother a break and every time it was like the restaurant was on trial with my mother pointing out every damn thing that was done worse than had she made it.
Edit:
Just wanted to add that having been raised in that environment where authentic home-cooked delicious food was made every day, I can't go to Italian restaurants anymore, not in the US. It's completely ruined it. There were no professional cooks or barristas under that roof, just OG Italians.
There are three cafes local to me that are better than pretty much anything you'd get in italy.
Italian espresso is just... extremely plain. Decent, but boring.
NOOOOO!!!
I grew up with a generic espresso machine (pre-Nespresso, so one where you had to grind and compact the beans yourself) and I could make a decent cup from the age of 14. This was with North-American water and beans of average price and quality.
And now you have a plethora of capsule-based espresso machines with identical convenience to a Keurig, from Nespresso to Caffitaly.
For example, the Rancilio Silvia [1] is known to be one of the best and most tweakable/hackable home machines for manually brewed espresso. It can make great Italian espresso out of the box, but there's also a healthy community around it that hacks the internals to brew at better temperatures and so on. It's also very affordable.
Personally, I have a Jura Ena, because I like just pressing one button to get my coffee, and it's fantastic.
[1] https://www.seattlecoffeegear.com/rancilio-silvia-espresso-m...
This. This was your problem. I have a $2k Rocket Milano (not the fanciest, but not bad), and I clean it thoroughly every couple weeks. It makes a world of difference each time I do, and the first pulls after putting in the effort are wonderful.
Of course, I also spent nearly a year before I found decent beans near me.
Cheers and good luck!
Ahha! I do not know why, but in every international couple I have met (including mine) the Italian part always ends up taking over the kitchen.
My non-Italian wife says it is a matter of low adaptability to different cooking styles on our part.
Maybe it's true. But she seems to be happy to accept it :-)
That's mostly a matter of perspective. You have to plan your Pizza a day ahead, but making the dough on the day before and putting it into the fridge doesn't feel as bad as waiting with a hungry stomach before food is served :-)
– an Italian who eats 2 pies per week on average
I really love his accent xD Reminds me of my semester in Naples <3
I've been using this dough recipe (it has wholewheat in it) [0] and been really liking the flavor of the dough. I've also moved to slow rise, the dough flavor seems more complex (or it could be psychosomatic). I leave it in the fridge for 2 days or 3 days, depending on how quickly we go through one batch.
But for cooking, I'm following this method (which is similar to what suggested in the OP). Basically to cook the pizza with tomato sauce first and then add the cheese [1] (PSA - this guy has such fun personality, be prepared to watch hours of his pizza videos)
I've also bought canned peel san marzano tomatoes (from both Whole Foods and TJs) and just used an impression blender to puree it with some basil.
I watched an interview with the owner of Lucali in NY [2] and he said he cooks his tomato sauce. So I've been cooking my tomato puree simmering it for 30-40 min. It makes it much richer. Still not sure if I like it more or not.
[0] https://www.billyparisi.com/homemade-pizza-homemade-pizza-do...
I recently discovered Vito Iacopelli's excellent YouTube channel on (predominantly Neapolitan) pizza making. He runs a Neapolitan pizzaria in Los Angeles and covers things like stretching techniques, tests with different ingredients and fermentation processes, and methods specifically designed to be used at home.
>Master bread baker Peter Reinhart follows the origins of pizza from Italy to the States, capturing the stories behind the greatest artisanal pizzas of the Old World and the New.
>Beginning his journey in Genoa, Reinhart scours the countryside in search of the fabled focaccia col formaggio. He next heads to Rome to sample the famed seven-foot-long pizza al taglio, and then to Naples for the archetypal pizza napoletana. Back in America, the hunt resumes in the unlikely locale of Phoenix, Arizona, where Chris Bianco of Pizzeria Bianco has convinced many that his pie sets the new standard in the country. The pizza mecca of New Haven, grilled pizza in Providence, the deep-dish pies of Chicago, California-style pizza in San Francisco and Los Angeles—these are just a few of the tasty attractions on Reinhart's epic tour.
>Returning to the kitchen, Reinhart gives a master class on pizza-making techniques and provides more than 60 recipes for doughs, sauces and toppings, and the pizzas that bring them all together. His insatiable curiosity and gift for storytelling make American Pie essential reading for those who aspire to make great pizza at home, as well as for anyone who enjoys the thrill of the hunt.
I like to experiment with my pizza and pasta recipes and place focus on trying to keep it simple. I believe that art benefits of some structure. Think rhyming patterns in poems or tonality in music. I'm aware of atonal music or not rhyming poetry but that's my point - it's a very different experience - more difficult. That's why I also like to not go and buy the best most expensive ingredients but instead attempt to restrict them to what I get from ALDI. Sometimes I'm just going crazy in some bio market and just buy the top notch stuff. But it seems that the taste is not that much depending on whether the tomatoes are from San Marzano or your run-of-the-mill variety from a regular super market.
My latest - not yet used - pizza gadget is an oven stone. Can't wait to find out how it will affect the outcome.
I instantly went from mediocre home pizza to almost restaurant grade simply by switching from my household oven to an Ooni, despite using the same ingredients and preparation method.
Almost anything on serious eats by Kenji is good imo. There is a whole section on pizza but the above recipe is my favorite.
Perhaps start with the New York style
Which should really be called a Roman-style pizza tonde dough, which is the style that was predominantly adopted in NYC.
If you like your pizza, the next iteration would be to also make the dough yourself. Expect several iterations / attempts until you can make it well and reproducible, and get a good feel for how much you need.
The first few batches of pizza dough I made were not very good :-).
If you go down the rabbit hole, when making your dough try to source some double zero flour (00 flour) and experiment with "hydration" percentages which is the ratio of water and flour. These are the two ingredient factors I have found to have the most impact. The "recipes" are much easier than you think - it's mostly a waiting game
Anything else will be affected by room temperature, humidity, oven performance, wind direction, campanilismo, etc.
Buy flour, yeast, salt, oil and experiment.
This recipe is worthy of your attention: https://www.wpr.org/recipe-overnight-straight-pizza-dough
Chef Chang ordered Domino's pizza to one of the restaurants. Hilarious.
Those ultra-thin doughs just feel like a cheat.
550 flour, half cube yeast, a tiny spoon salt and sugar, 150ml milk filled up by water to ~275ml fluid. 5 spoons oil. Knead the dough and add the fluid. When it's nice textured leave it for the rest of the day or at least a few hours.
You get a dough you can load full with whatever you want and you'll have enough food for a few days.
I've used this method a few times to superb results.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=HXAW2GseICs
Top comment: "There is more drama in this video than in the entire Transformers franchise."
Turin, Milan, Bergamo, Brescia and other cities have a lot of "pinseria" joints. Ma tipo tante eh. Saluti!
Best pizza I ever had was in Vienna, yes, made by an Italian but not the classical Napolitan pizza. I strongly prefer Rome as reference for it.
Btw, that standard kneeding hook of the Kitchen aid is really a pos: Get a better one asap.
Sourdough is the ancient way, that's why I mentioned it, also, it gives me great pleasure to use it for baking. Take my comment as you will, perhaps you can derive some value from it.
The advantage of the dough toss is the centrifugal force that adds enough force to stretch the dough a lot and evenly.
If I don't spin my dough I get a pie crust that's too thick.
I'm lucky that I have an absolutely fantastic Italian specialty store here in Copenhagen, where I can get amazing quality canned tomatoes and great cuts of cured meat for toppings. And 'nduja, oh boy the 'nduja. For cheese I actually use completely ordinary Danish Havarti, it's like a slightly aged low-moisture whole milk mozzarella, it melts great and it's available literally everywhere here.
Neapolitan pizza is something you really need a wood-fired oven or something that gets similarly hot. An ordinary oven won't cut it. As I live in an apartment and have very limited space for gadgets, I stick to Roman-style pizza tonde, where you can get absolutely amazing results in an ordinary oven with a baking steel (mine is an 8mm thick 8kg slab of iron from an industrial steelworks, but the commercial ones are great too).
Above a certain threshold one cannot tell the difference between good and very good. Wine tasters know it and it has been very well documented.
When it comes to flavours, as long as it doesn't harm you, your judgement is as good as anybody else.
And it IS a superior style of pizza /s
Please please please go to Italy and show them who's boss, make sure you film.
Me personally, I think Italian (non-Neapolitan) thin crust pizza is the best I’ve ever tried but they’re all just different styles.
There's an annual pizza festival in the summer i nBoston, which brings a lot of Italians with their stone ovens making neopolitan pies. So I went there and finally got to try neopolitan pies which according to pizza aficionados are supposedly really good.
Man, I was in for a ride. Just not my taste. I'll admit that I may be a charlatan or have a pedestrian palate, but I can say now I'll prefer a slice of NY pie over an authentic neopolitan pie any day of the week.
I also adhere to the Roman style in that there are no rules for toppings. Anything goes.
There are some workarounds that will make very good pizza at home.
My favorite is to use an outdoor grill instead of an oven. A hot grill with a pre-heated pizza stone is totally capable of reaching proper temperature. This can actually make neopolitan style pizza crust and works perfectly for other styles too.
If you can't do a grill, starting the pizza in a large preheated cast iron pan on the stove top will help. Finish it off in the oven. Not Neopolitan, but very good.
If you are using the recommended "00-flour" (finely milled high gluten bread flour), and you're not reaching pizza oven temperatures because you're using a household oven, add diastatic malt (powder) to the dough mix. This boosts yeast activity and also helps with coloration of the dough at lower temperatures. Otherwise, the pizza will be "done" before the crust has a chance to color properly.
There's a hack you can do where you use your oven's self clean function to reach high temperatures. Most ovens have a physical interlock preventing you from opening the door during a self clean cycle though, so to work around that you'll have to void your warranty and saw off the lock.
That said, cooking pizza on the clean cycle is difficult, and not necessarily worth it. Timing and vertical positioning in the oven is crucial, or you will end up with a burnt bottom or toppings. Make sure you have a long peel, and keep your face away from the heat when you open the door.
I take issue with Neapolitan being a standard of quality. It's just a style.
Talking about Italian food in specific, they're very opinionated about what's the best way to work each ingredient, how to work dough, how long to leave pasta resting, and what's the best blend of herbs and the best species for each recipe. On engineering we call it standardization not fetishism. That's what DOP, DOC and DOCG is about, and that's what the Neapolitan on Neapolitan pizza is about, you know that if you eat a Neapolitan pizza that follow the official process you will have a predicted flavor on your pizza, like it or not.
By reading the classics and asking yourself why they cook that way you will start to understand that you can use shortcuts where the output could be the same or close enough. For instance stone is a very bad heat conductor, that's why you need a very hot oven to deliver the right amount of heat to cook your pizza. But if you use a better conductor you could deliver the same amount of energy on a much lower temperature. On the "Modernist Cuisine at Home"[0] book they research this topic and arrive on the conclusion that a thick baking steel sheet arrives on much better results, they even sell their official baking steel [1].
[0] https://www.amazon.com/Modernist-Cuisine-Home-Nathan-Myhrvol... [1] https://modernistcuisine.com/shop/baking-steel/
These assure on the other hand normally a good quality standard as the regional producers' associations have every incentive to keep quality good.
But beware, once you have a sophisticated taste for something you can no longer enjoy all the “bad” ones.
But I think you've dialed down a very complicated issue too far when you say "one cannot tell the difference between good and very good". A better characterization would be that many factors go into the perception of taste, and it's not always straightforward to identify "good". Here's a decent article on wine tasting that explores the idea much more honestly than, "Haha, experts can't tell!": https://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2019/07/can-profess...
1. The label of ‘wine expert’ is left undefined. True sommeliers have spent thousands of hours studying wine and are not the same thing as a guy that takes a weekend wine-tasting course and gets a certificate. Yet most ‘studies’ fail to mention this.
Just as importantly here, what literally every single source we could find not only leaves out when reporting this story, but in the vast majority of cases falsely states, is the actual qualifications of those being tested by Brochet. It turns out, the people he was using as taste testers were not experts at all, simply undergraduate students studying oenology (wine and wine making). While certainly probably more knowledgeable than your average person on the street, nobody would call an undergraduate mathematics major just learning the ropes a “math expert”, nor would their skills be indicative of what their professors who have vastly more experience and are actual experts are capable of doing.
2. The ‘experiments’ are done in a totally unscientific arbitrary way, with massive amounts of suggestion and psychological influence. If this were any other scientific study, it would be laughed out of the room for its total lack of rigor.
As the Master Sommeliers demonstrate by passing the taste test they are subjected to in the first place, with enough time and study, there are actually people who are exceptionally good at identifying and judging attributes of wines in the right circumstances. But overwhelm there sense with 100 wines or change their expectations about what they are tasting and their perceptions will change significantly, seemingly, making them little better than a random person off the street at telling anything definitive about the wine.
https://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2019/07/can-profess...
I personally, by no means an expert in any way, can attest the difference is minimal and mostly comes down to one's own preferences / pairing of wine with food in given situation.
Its often one of those markets where you buy your own emotions with higher price rather than actual, measurable subjective added value.
But yes, if you use a wine costing 2-3 euros, quality of taste in many aspects will be incomparable even to that average joe.
But that isn't usually why these studies are often referenced, and certainly wasn't what the OP meant. The argument presented is often that there is no difference between high-end wines and low-end wines, which seems to be demonstrably false. That's not the same thing as unless you're an expert, you won't be able to tell the difference.
The reality is that wine appreciation, like any field, requires experience and knowledge to build "taste." This is pretty obvious when it comes to other things - no one would suggest that you could understand or appreciate the nuances of a WW2 film without knowing what WW2 was, but somehow when it comes to matters of taste in art, food, etc., the totally-ignorant person's opinion is equal to the expert's.
I'd say it's far more likely that contemporary culture is aesthetically/phenomenologically illiterate.
2-3 euro wine tastes disgusting to even an "average joe"
The country I come from, this would be put in above-average quality (which isn't very nice to my home country, but that's my experience).
Any car driver can easily appreciate the difference between a Ferrari and, say, a Ford. You can't say the same about wine.
Now, since you're making a utilitarian argument here - what is the point of becoming a sommelier when all it does is make you so sensitive to the taste of wine that you need to spend hundreds of dollars for "a really good one"?
On the surface, this sounds like a huge waste of time and money to me. Perhaps having such a fine taste is pure bliss. My suspicion though is that sommeliers are just bullshitters that use their knowledge of expensive produce to get into the company of wealthy people - and earn a decent living.
Because not everything is about maximizing economic transactions?
It won out over several wines that where four times as expensive.
I guess this is why it's called "a matter of taste". Anecdote: I can't stand vinegar in anything. So it's really interesting to see someone insist that I should use it because it makes this or that better.
Experts have to judge based (also) on objective criteria. You don't, you just like it more or less.
Isn't that the heart of the "meme"? I never thought it was "no difference" or "all wines are equal" but rather that you get out of it what you want.
As for difference between cheap and expensive wines, the same wine tasters tell me that price does not always correlate with quality, it is mostly a marketing thing. In fact, the ones I know are more likely to serve you cheap (but good!) wine. They know enough not to rely on price as a proxy for quality.
When put up against a real triangle/discrimination test, they just don't stack up. I'm not saying they don't do anything, but claims of being able to discriminate individual compounds in any sort of detail are not substantiated.
In general of course a person can eat whatever crap they want and it doesn't affect me except when that person is cooking or picking out food for me.
>Please ignore all these experts, all they want is to make you feel special because you drink/eat their stuff.
But if this isn't cynicism for effect and is your true outlook on life I would encourage you to spend some time with any master of something and have them describe in detail to you the things they are seeing in a fellow master doing the same thing.
This <thing> could be anything - sports, music, art, acting, chess, video games...
What you will probably see is the master picking up on all sorts of imperceptible details that seem so subtle that they seem like bullshit. Then try going deep on that same thing, learn it for yourself. Eventually you will reach a stage where you will suddenly discover firsthand how little you know about that skill and how big the world above you is in skill and detail.
Then eventually you will appreciate that this is true for almost every other disciplines and there myriad worlds of hidden detail that you never noticed or appreciated that creators have slaved over. Things that you only notice but can't put your finger on when you compare a pro to an amateur.
Is Monet just dabs on a canvas? Federer just hitting a ball? Is Daigo just a lucky guesser at Street Fighter? Is Mitsuko Uchida just more stuffy and pretentious than your street busker?
Granted, there's a lot of snake oil in food and wine because there's money to be made but don't let that theatre close you off categorically to the world of food (and wine).
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Yeast needing no sugar to work is something I've never heard of, could you please forward more information about this? Thank you.