Nikon's 300mm F/2
company7.com
company7.com
I've got a few higher end cameras, and my favourite is probably my Leica Q2. It has a fixed prime lens (28mm), and the photos are just astounding.
For the Mars Rover, they are extremely bandwidth constrained to send photos home.
They found that a super high quality lens, greatly outweighs the megapixels (which becomes a bandwidth problem when you’re millions of miles away)
Most cameras are only 2 megapixels on the Mars Curiosity Rover, yet it produces unbelievable detail due to the high quality lenses.
https://www.wired.com/2012/08/curiosity-mars-rover-cameras/a...
On a lot of the photography forums, people talk about how much a lens "out resolves the camera's sensor", meaning that any improvement in the lens will go unnoticed until they upgrade the sensor. They often use the DXOMARK score (perceived megapixels?) as a metric of this. It seems to make sense but I really have no idea how much truth is behind this!
And, even considering 50% MTF, many professional lenses struggle to go beyond 3MP.
You can definitely get much better images if you have a good lens, and on older cameras good lighting or very good form. But more modern smartphone lenses and software are plenty good for certain types of photography (and especially video).
I shoot less and less with my D750 and D700 (in non-studio / non-low-light-event situations), and more and more with my iPhone, because of the convenience and portability.
But there are definitely types of pictures that can't be taken without good glass and a larger sensor size. No software can simulate the physics that makes a longer focal length make a great portrait. (You just can't stuff that quality of glass into such a small lens, and the sensor can't physically gather enough photons to compete.)
Today I travel with an iPhone 11 Pro and a Fuji X-T2. In the past it's been whatever current-gen iPhone and pocket cameras like the Sony RX-100Mk3, Canon S110, Canon S95, and DSLRs like a Nikon D3000 and D50.
It used to be, the photos looked better on the phone after shooting them, just because the screen was so much better, but once imported to the computer, the iPhone photos looked like an oil painting even compared to a upper midrange P+S pocket camera, let alone a DSLR. It wasn't even close.
These days, between the XT-2 and the iPhone 11 Pro, it's hard to tell which is which. Sometimes the iPhone looks better as-shot because of the image processing presets. Other times it's the Fuji. At 1:1 on a 5k display it's just not as obvious as it was when the pixels were blown up more.
Even in good light, yes, the sharpness on the Fuji is better, but not by leaps and bounds. Not in a way that would be immediately obvious to anyone walking by the computer as it used to be.
I've never bought high-end glass, and frankly, some of my earlier DSLR photos are pretty bad compared to what my iPhone returns these days.
Seriously, even a beat-up one from eBay, just try! Costs way less than a new flagship phone and the difference is still amazing. And nowadays it's not difficult at all to learn how to use them decently, don't be afraid!
Which is perfectly fine for everyone of course, but given that you have to buy high-end (my very own 150$ Android One device has no such camera) and a central theme of this high-end innovation is that you buy a new device every 2 years (nowadays mainly advertised through the camera) and then throw the old one away, I just decided to buy a small ILC (EOS M10 on sale) and use that for taking pictures until the shutter dies (at times where my main camera is too big (and thus most would use a mobile)). Works fine for me and with 12mm/2 and 22mm/2 lenses I can (the 2010ish sensor notwithstanding) still only grin at the nightmode of the newest iPhone or the star mode of Google...
Would love to know if anyone here knows more specifics firsthand, but that camera's sharpness has always impressed me compared to the replacements I've tried out.
Some back of the envelope math: 20/20 vision = the ability to resolve differences 1 arc minute ≈ 290 microradians across. A distance of 1/300 inch subtends an angle of about 280 microradians at 12 inches, so I estimate someone with 20/20 vision could see pixelation on a 300 dpi image inside 12 inches.
Is that too weird? Well, maybe if you're hanging it on the wall, but it seems odd to put a 7x10 image on the wall unless it's in a collection or montage. I think photos printed at 7x10 are more likely to be held in the hands, in which case shooting for transparent at 12 inches seems like the way to go, actually. (I suspect many people would have trouble discerning details in a 7x10 image from several feet away.)
Photographic continuous tone images never have that sharp of contrast, though, and, again, depending on the image, you might not see jaggies even at 100dpi.
300dpi is sufficiently overkill to be an easy "set it and forget" resolution to recommend. (Source: I paid for college doing typesetting, graphic design, and digital prepress work).
I used to think 300dpi was "bare minimum", having studied computer graphics in college and Nyquist limits and all that. And then one day my father printed a 640x480 cellphone camera photo as an 8x6 and... it looked fine. I was blown away.
And then I finally remembered: human eyes don't detect absolute light value, we can only see relative differences in light values. Gradients don't provide enough change to see the edges between colors. You can see it on a computer screen because the screen amplifies the contrast of the image (another old lesson I eventually had to relearn so as to compensate when making prints of digital photos).
Nobody knows what resolution you print things when they see the print. If the average joe "knew" how the photo was made, they might scoff at it. I guess people think that craft requires fine precision at all steps of every process. Certain craft does, but some other craft requires randomization and binning, and others have diminishing returns on extra effort. So I find it kind of fun to print low-resolution photos. Feels like I'm winning a game against overly officious critics.
> Nobody knows what resolution you print things when they see the print.
Well sure, you're right about the gradient thing, but what if you have an image with some really sharp, contrasted edges?
Just anecdata, but my family and I were walking through a seasside town a while back and ended up in an artist's shop. Took a look at some photographic prints on the wall (going for $50-$150+, as "artisan" stuff often does), and I had to call my partner over to look at them because I couldn't believe they were all pixelated! Some of them quite badly. I was about 18 inches away from them, I guess, and they looked to have been printed at about 100 dpi. Sure, you probably don't need 300 DPI for large wall prints, but I'd rather have a margin of error and not have that happen to one of my prints. Most people aren't likely to notice flaws in printed images, and are even less likely to tell the owner if they do.
I guess it's possible the shots sent to the printer were badly compressed JPEGs, but that seems unlikely.
Print engines can apply nearest-neighbor interpolation which results in visible, blocky pixels. If they'd upsampled the image with lanczos or another higher-quality algorithm before sending it to the printer, it would have looked like it was just a touch out of focus.
The first image is a splotchy mess, while the second image retains fine details, only the outside edges are blurry due to the toy lens I used. The other big differences that people are quick to notice, depth-of-field and focal length.
[1] https://www.naut.ca/dropbox/IMG_1827.JPG
[2] https://www.naut.ca/blog/content/images/2019/09/P1040326.jpg
The lens quality and software quality should be complementary ways to improve the image. My DSLR has much better lenses than my phone. My phone has Night Sight, which is an amazing software solution for getting the best out of its relatively poor optics. (IIUC, it aligns multiple short exposures to minimize motion blue in an overall long exposure, as well as denoising/color-enhancing/stuff with ML.) I'd love to use them together.
Hopefully the camera industry steps up the quality of it's software before it collapses into obscurity. Right now the only thing keeping it afloat is the fact that we haven't found good ways to take the effects of large apertures and longer focal lengths.
I feel like the moment phone manufacturers are able to convincingly fake something like an 85mm f/1.4, we're just going to be done with full-frame cameras.
are able to convincingly fake something like an 85mm f/1.4,
If that were the case we have a good long time then, most likely; Really what you are talking about is how you can't beat the physics of large sensors and lenses; for now 'faking it' isn't anywhere close, but also the techniques being pursued aren't likely to get there.I suspect in-camera processing though is a bit of a dead end for pro and prosumer cameras because your laptop/desktop is going to be able to do a much better job, and your camera just isn't going to have a good workflow for post-processing and organizing photos.
For phone camera use it makes more sense, because people are rarely doing much more than delete these two, crop this one a little and send it to mom.
Don't get me wrong, phone cameras are having a ton of effort put into them and have way more resources than conventional cameras - but the effort is almost entirely being put into making something small and light work pretty well under most circumstances, not into making something great.
What's more important is that most people don't care for most applications. More people use to buy "good" cameras because their other options were poor or nonexistent. A top of the line current phone camera may not be great, but it's good enough for most people.
I don't know what this means. It could well kill off the "prosumer" market and leave professional cameras an expensive niche product. It just likely won't be because phone cameras got as good at creating pictures.
Something like Night Sight as a post-processing method might not be practical. You need many short exposures instead of one long exposure. So basically, you've got full-resolution raw video to deal with instead of a single shot. More efficient to process that before storing it and transferring it.
People regularly shoot in various "raw" formats which are significantly larger in size so that they have more flexibility in how to post-process. They capture a whole bunch of extra data, move it around, and generally store it indefinitely knowing they will throw a lot of it away in the final photo so that they can make the decision what to throw away later while they're looking at a 27" colour-corrected screen instead of a small camera screen.
People don't do HDR on-camera, they generally shoot multiple exposures and adjust in software after to get the effect and balance they're looking for which is basically Night Sight to a lesser degree.
A bit of extra disk space and transfer time is small peanuts and already fits the workflow most photographers are used to.
You can fake depth of field, use image stabilization and image stacking to gather more light with a smaller aperture, utilize "super resolution" and/or neural network techniques to get or fake more detail, etc.
I'd love to see some of the awesome work being put into phones carry over into full-frame cameras before the whole pro-sumer market and a bunch of the pro market dissolve.
Nobody fakes depth of field that well, and super resolution (the algorithmic kind, not the real kind) doesn't work that well either. We've been doing research in those areas for 25+ years now, and while some real progress has been made it's not magic.
Phone cameras are doing a lot of heroic stuff to get around the limitations of their optics, and it results in "hey, that's not bad". Nothing wrong with that!
But I don't see why you would want to see that stuff in a digital SLR, say, though - if you take your photography seriously enough to lug that thing around, you're doing post processing on a computer anyway, and you can do all that stuff better there (at least in theory). Now if you were asking why photo processing software on your desktop wasn't absorbing or improving on everything in the phones, that would make more sense to me.
You're right that the best image stabilization is opto-mechanical, but it would be very nice to have access to digital image stabilization as well as in-body and in-lens stabilization. Again, a decent accelerometer can go a long way.
Honestly, most of what I'd like to see has involved image stacking in one form or another. Digital ND filters are the same idea.
And don't get me started on ergonomics and usability. I definitely picked the worst camera brand in terms of user interface (sony), but all the DSLRs and mirrorless cameras I've touched are noticably lacking in that department. I don't necessarily need a giant phone screen like my S9+, but I would expect a device costing $2000+ to at least have a fairly high resolution OLED panel on the back of it with solid touch controls. Meanwhile touch controls are distinctly lacking in any camera I've tried.
Software is important too!
> You're right that the best image stabilization is opto-mechanical, but it would be very nice to have access to digital image stabilization as well as in-body and in-lens stabilization. Again, a decent accelerometer can go a long way.
> Honestly, most of what I'd like to see has involved image stacking in one form or another. Digital ND filters are the same idea.
> And don't get me started on ergonomics and usability. I definitely picked the worst camera brand in terms of user interface (sony), but all the DSLRs and mirrorless cameras I've touched are noticably lacking in that department. I don't necessarily need a giant phone screen like my S9+, but I would expect a device costing $2000+ to at least have a fairly high resolution OLED panel on the back of it with solid touch controls. Meanwhile touch controls are distinctly lacking in any camera I've tried.
> Software is important too!
I would like to see a panorama mode also vs firing up stitcher applications. All these should be basic firmware upgrades tbh even on the older models. Features available on a CoolPix entry level camera should not be missing from prosumer DSLRs.
Generally speaking I also haven't seen a phone picture yet, which beats my cams at sharpness (which is simple physics...). It's pixelpeeping ofc but I can happily look at my pictures right from the raw converter w/o any sharpening or AI-magic applied and they are sharp and crisp. Do that with you phone-raw or jpeg. You'll spot a difference even on a phone screen...
Also, I don't think that these things should be put in camera software as a feature (making them subject to obsolescense as phones...) but instead they should just add a very basic scripting API (=tool) so you can store all the things you need for postprocessing and control capture (like the lua-scripts on CDHK).
If someone can make a phone that gives convincing fake bokeh and covers wide, normal, and tele focal lengths while producing images that are even remotely comparable to a "real" camera in an 8x10 print... that person will demolish what's left of the camera industry.
"The best camera is the one you have with you"
Right, which is why the low end consumer camera market has basically died. For average use, a phone is already "good enough".So another plausible path is that the damage has already been done, and what is left of the prosumer and pro level stuff will remain stable.
Note, I'm not saying that I think that is what will happen, I haven't thought about it much. But there is nothing in current tech development that suggests the phones will bridge that gap (to prosumer level image quality) any time soon...
It's a concerning trend, which makes me hope that camera manufacturers get ahead of the trend by introducing features that I feel are lacking in "real" cameras.
The first two categories are well served by any smartphone camera nowadays, which leaves the third. And here I think that this is still served best by a dedicated device because you are basically really interested in taking pictures of a certain quality. And no, the current state of the art in fake-bokeh will not really hit this group (it's a very small group though and the instagram-people with their nice portraits will probably go for the fake too. Though they probably could just do a 3D-scan of the person and then do a render (no more bad hair. no more bad skin. pure perfection). Doesn't necessarily have a lot to do with photography though).
Also dynamic range, but that’s much easier to fake.
The compression on the images is also another thing contributing to the watercolor look and lack of sharpness. Cell phone cameras are worried about space constraints on the device itself and across the network.
I'm not saying they have the same dynamic range as my A7iii, but they're not compressed or color-value limited like JPEG.
IMO professional camera manufacturers need to get ahead of that by putting computational photography techniques in their full frame bodies.
Anyways, smartphone cameras are and will be for a long time stuck because of their diffraction limited sensors due to low lens diameters.
EDIT: Nevermind, it looks like this has happened— Sony released some lens-only cameras in 2013 and it doesn't seem like too much has come of it: https://lifehacker.com/how-to-use-your-smartphone-to-get-bet...
Anyway, I would have thought the dealbreaking issues with an augmented phone/camera would more be around the dearth of tactile controls, but that can be at least partially addressed by moving some of them to the strap-on accessory.
I don't see a gap in camera-processing for either phones or DSLRs, because the experience sucks on both. But you are right there is a gap between "consumer" software and "pro" software that could be addressed.
I don't know if offloading a bit of processing to your phone from a camera would fix much really. Ergonomics of cameras is much better for taking photos, and there isn't much in there you don't need.
I guess you could get rid of the screen entirely, and some of the user controls. That could be nice but would be difficult from a product point of view, as you would be dependent on the whims of a larger market. See all the difficulties getting standardized on things for car, where there is much more incentive...
I'm hoping to hit a chunk of that "middle option" you spoke of with PhotoStructure (details in my profile). I'm building sharing next, so hopefully that aspect will be addressed as well. Hosting the software yourself addresses privacy concerns. The beta is being offered for free in exchange for feedback.
Sony lenses, though? Not cheap.
So yeah, if you're willing to do without AF, and especially if you're doing video, it's difficult to beat a fairly sharp 50 1.4 for 50$
When I was purchasing a camera, the body was what you were spec'ing out, and would determine what you could do. The lens to me seemed to be the accessory.
Turns out cameras (bodies) are transient, and lenses persist.
It was as surprising to me as if tires+wheels turned out to be more important than the car.
That said, when it comes to ultra-long lenses, your best bet might be to buy a camera+lens all-in-one like the nikon p1000 / canon sx70hs (focal length + small sensor makes things more achiavable than large DSLR sensors)
Indeed, I have a Lumix LX3 from 2008. The sensor in my smartphone is better, as are the quality of the photos in low-light, and the autofocus is much faster. But in good lighting conditions, the photos from the LX3 are much higher quality.
If you shoot RAW and use a fairly recent Lightroom equivalent application that has good noise reduction, etc., you can still get the LX3 to shoot above its weight.
One thing in particular that I like about the LX3 is that the black and white mode is a surprisingly fun mode to shoot in. In fact, one novel way of using the LX3 in 2020 would be as a dedicated black and white camera.
But once in the hands of someone who knows how to process their photos, dedicated cameras win every single time.
Example: I can and have read books on my iPhone, but I find the result subpar compared to reading on Kindle or dead tree. Even though I technically completed my task, the experience of completing it wasn’t what I would’ve had on a single purpose device.
If you’re into photography, you’ll find a way to have your preferred camera on you more often. Pre-quarantine I carried mine daily.
If you’re not into photography, you’ll have your cell phone, and that’s ok too.
There are lots of things that can remedy higher f-stops to some extent, but nothing really substitutes that big aperature.
The big appeal if low f-stop lenses from high end lensmakers is that they have reduced aberrations/distortions because they use a shit ton of glass to improve the image, which in turn is why they can be so incredibly expensive. A $50 f/1.6 is going to be dogshit. The $5000 lens is going to have additional optics to remedy the large ROC and high-angle rays.
The trade-offs are often worth it.
Meh, they use a shit ton of glass _which introduces aberrations_ which needs more glass to correct.
I bought a 50mm 1.2 ai-s, and sent it back a few days later. The dof is unusable at f1.2 and after f2.8 it looks like any other quality 50mm lens. It vignets like crazy and edges aren't sharp until you stop down to regular apertures. So yeah sure you can shoot a bit better in low light, if you like blurry and soft pics.
> The trade-offs are often worth it.
For pros, maybe, for prosumers and consumers I highly doubt it.
40 years old actually, still made new by nikon in their japanese factories to this day.
> Canon RF 50mm f/1.2
I'd happily test one but it costs more than my whole 35mm + medium format setups + darkroom equipment. It weights 3 times more than the nikkor and uses 77mm filter instead of 52mm so this is already a big no-no in my books.
I'm sure there are good fast lenses, it's just that they have so many drawbacks that it doesn't make sense for the vast majority of photographers.
http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/lenses.html
>I'm sure there are good fast lenses, it's just that they have so many drawbacks that it doesn't make sense for the vast majority of photographers.
My point was its not fair to use an old obsolete lens to denounce fast aperture primes of today.
Everywhere else, most lenses are sharped stopped down to the f/5.6–f/8 range, and depth-of-field is an entirely stylistic choice — e.g. shallow dof is popular with portraits, but largely undesirable for landscape photography.
That is no longer necessarily true. For example in Nikon world the current 70-200mm f4 is generally thought to have the same quality as the 70-200mm f2.8.
Lens quality in general has gone way up as digital cameras have exceeded the resolution of film. Now companies have to engineer even mid-range lenses to produce very high-quality images since even mid-range DSLRs might have 20MP sensors or more. And on a computer it's easy to zoom in and pixel-peep... and share your disappointment with everyone else if the lens is bad.
For all the legend-making around the Nikon 300mm f2.0, their latest 300mm f2.8 is going to outperform it in every way expect for the number of photons it lets through.
This is actually a funny thing. The APS-C Canon 90D has a slightly higher resolution sensor than the full frame 5Dmk4, and significantly higher than the brand new, also full frame, 1DXmk3. Sony’s APS-C bodies are all 24MP, the same as the a7iii and the flagship a9/a9ii.
Other than dedicated high-res models (5DS, a7R, D850/Z7), high-end cameras routinely have much lower pixel density than cheaper cameras, because resolution doesn’t matter that much for most applications, and pros care for a whole bunch of other features that scale poorly with resolution (such as low light performance and buffer drain speed)
Think of your classic Sports Illustrated photographer... those images are not going to run larger than double truck in a print magazine, and 12 MP is plenty for that. Heck, National Geographic's first digital two-page spread was shot with a Nikon D1X.
And news and sports images need to go out FAST... where again a lower MP count actually helps.
And at the same time it was just as likely to result in poorer pictures because of focus shift when stopped down.
This isn't about getting the best image possible but about capturing something you otherwise couldn't get at all.
All of this gear is about flexibility to handle poor lighting conditions, things moving quickly, etc. If you are product photographer with a room full of lighting equipment you are going to pick the right lens for the job and make the room work. Other people rarely have this freedom.
It's worth noting that in the last couple of generations of digital sensors, we're objectively in a better situation than fast film was, so that loosens the need for fast glass a bit. The same is true for widely deployed mostly ok physical image stabilization systems.
At the end they compare budget lenses like the Canon 50mm f/0.95 and find that the SLR Magic 25mm T0.95, seems to work better in low light.
I'd not heard of that Leica before, but it does look amazing.
Mirror lenses have been around for a long time. They fold the length of larger telephotos into about a third with some trade-offs in speed and image quality.
[1] https://global.canon/en/v-square/34.html [2] https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/d...
Another 'workaround' is the use of a mirror, but these lenses are only useful for very specific tasks and are usually not designed for the high end market.
https://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/70-300mm-do-is.htm
I agree with Ken Rockwell's review of the lens except I add that it just doesn't have the color and contrast "pop" of equivalent lenses such as the 100-400 L II zoom. One thing, though, the used price for the DO lens is low.
Is the image quality as good as my full sized Nikon gear - definitely not. Can I take more pictures that I couldn't even attempt before (wildlife and landscapes) - definitely.
Canon tried a fresnel lenes there "DO" series. Not quite as good quality at about half the size and way more money. Its interesting technology.
You can see the lens size comparisons near the bottom of this article.
https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-400mm-f...
One of the main things driving larger optics/ is the amount of light the lens lets in. EG: max aperture (a lower f number) means bigger lens, more money. The availability of digital sensors means often you can shoot with higher film speed and might not require as large a max aperture..
The big difference from contemporary Samyang and Rokkinon catadioptrics is it's really long focus throw. It's about 350 degrees from 1.5m to infinity. At 500mm even f8 is shallow. Hyper-focal distance is over a kilometer on a crop sensor.
Even with a 2x teleconverter (1000mm f16/t22) it's less than a kilogram so it's easy to walk around hand holding and throwing it in the bag is not a major commitment.
Like any other lens it's a compromise. I live with it's technical shortcomings because it provides a specific capability to make images I would not make otherwise. In theory, it's a choice between lenses based on technical specifications. In practice it's a choice between making image with the catadioptric and no image at all. The images that would not exist otherwise exist because I can see in 500mm prime before I raise the camera and when my eye hits the viewfinder I'm not making a "well maybe I can crop it" compromise.
And even if you could, applying the same software to the output of big high-quality lenses would likely yield better outcomes :)
Sales aren't necessarily always a decent proxy to usage (and high end cameras are probably less replaceable than phones), but it'd take a brave person to argue that large swathes of the digital camera userbase haven't jumped ship to phones.
I've got an interchangeable lens camera (nothing high end, but a decent MFT offering), and my iPhone 11 smacks it for everyday usage.
I personally really like Nikon's 300mm f/4 PF. They use a Phase Fresnel element (which, if you're a lens geek, is quite cool). In return for giving up a couple of stops of light, the lens is actually hand-holdable! (In fact, it's lighter than their top of the line 70-200 f/2.8 zoom)
The other path to doubling reach would be a 2x teleconverter which would reduce light gathering to f/4 and introduce glass elements that won't do image quality any favours.
Small sensor downside: high ISO ability. Probably two stops lost, but with modern MFT sensors you can still shoot up to ISO 6400 with great results.
Small sensor downside or upside, depending on your needs: deeper depth of field (twice the depth of field, in this case, which is still pretty amazing for 600mm!)
So for a given full-frame lens at a given f-stop, if you drop down to an APS-C sensor, you're reducing the amount of light gathered by about one stop (half). On an m43, you're obviously losing 75% of the light gathering capacity (two stops).
Putting a 300mm f/2 lens on a micro 4/3rds body should result in images similar to a full-frame camera with a 600mm f/4 lens.
*Obviously t-stop would be better, since it's an actual measurement of brightness.
The smaller sensors are challenged to keep their noise down, given they typically have a smaller pixel pitch to keep up the megapickel count.
So to get a comparable shutter speed, assuming 1 stop less ISO, you still need that 400mm f/2.8 on crop to match the 600mm f/4 on FF.
Humorously, they have the same front element size.
This isn't the only thing that matters. It also matters that you're amplifying the noise more by enlarging it 4x as much as you would have on the larger sensor. It's analogous to film in that a larger format will exhibit less obtrusive grain than a smaller one despite using the exact same film speed. You're using the same exposure over a larger area, and thus gathering more light to drown out the noise.
You can either think of it in terms of total light gathered compared with the underlying noise of the sensor (signal to noise ratio) or in terms of enlargement of the image. The result is the same, smaller sensors have "more noise" simply because they're gathering less total light and amplifying everything more.
And don't be fooled by the old "higher megapixel = more noise" fallacy. All else being equal, it's the same amount of noise. However each pixel is gathering less light (signal) to offset the noise, so the signal to noise ratio is worse when comparing pixel for pixel. However, if you were to downscale the output of the higher res sensor to match the lower resolution sensor, you'd find roughly the same amount of noise in both images.
I make a 'soft' change to the the sensor size on my Nikon D850 by switching between FX (full frame) and DX (crop) mode. DX gives me a 1.5 effective multiplication of the focal length, but a still very good resolution of 5408x3600 pixels (uncropped FX is 8256x5504).
In some shooting modes (e.g. slow motion video at 1920x1080;30p x4) the camera automatically switches into DX mode, presumably to maintain a high framerate for a sustained period. I've now learned to select a DX crop in advance if there is a chance I might need slow-mo so that I don't get a jarring change in effective focal length mid-way through a shoot.
[1] https://petapixel.com/2017/04/27/canon-300mm-f1-8-yes-monste...
http://neiloseman.com/barry-lyndon-the-full-story-of-the-fam...
Only ten were made. NASA bought six to send round the dark side of the moon. Stanley Kubrick bought the other three.
That makes nine.
An instance of "The Lord Jehovah has given unto you these fifteen... Oy... ten! TEN Commandments! For all to obey!"? [15...10 Commandments](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXeTsWGPT0w)
That thing must be a royal PITA to focus...
http://neiloseman.com/barry-lyndon-the-full-story-of-the-fam...
I also remember reading somewhere the actors had a bad time from having to make sure to stand still to not go out of focus. 4cm of depth of field isn't much.
This is my first time know this f2 version.
The price tag is very high close to 10k. And it's very heavy...
Here’s a couple of doozies:
https://www.stuff.tv/news/just-because-they-could-ps100000-n...
https://petapixel.com/2016/06/22/rare-nikon-1200mm-lens-setu...
https://petapixel.com/2013/11/13/ultra-rare-2000mm-f11-nikko...