British Rail’s short experiment with travelling pubs
ianvisits.co.uk
ianvisits.co.uk
The only way this works for beer is to use kegs, which is what most of the World uses but the largest consumer organisation in the UK - CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale - was created to fight against. And with some success - cask brewing is now a massive growth area in the UK.
That said, this looks considerably better than the over-priced plastic nonsense from the "onboard shop" or "at seat service" we have to suffer today.
I don't think I'd want to go near one without a British Transport Police officer nearby if a bunch of football fans were making a journey to an away game.
CAMRA are indeed all about 'real', cask ale. But the organisation was created to fight against the encroaching lagerisation of everything. In the 70s and 80s (from what I can tell, I didn't pass legal drinking age until 1996) the beer scene in the UK was dire. Mass produced lagers were about the only thing on offer, the likes of Carling, Fosters, Stella etc. You'd usually find there was a 'bitter' on tap in most pubs, but it would be a bland, mass produced brown beer like John Smiths or Tetleys. Even in the early 00s many pubs had a bunch of lagers and a concession to other beer types in the form of a single tap of fullers "London Pride". The traditional breweries were suffering and the real art to beer making was being lost in the UK, despite our rich history of it.
At the same time, supermarket sales and home drinking were impacting on the pub, which had been a traditional social hub for a lot of the country for a long time.
So in stepped CAMRA to promote real pubs and real British beer, with real, varying flavours and an eye to tradition. It was a roaring success, though slow-burning at first. Now they hold massive festivals, local real ale breweries are everywhere, pubs have a wide selection of great stuff again.
The craft revolution some years later took them by surprise. Their attitude to good beer in a keg seems to be "well it's not exactly what we're about, but great! People are taking an interest!". AFAICT they've decided the cask is their focus, but so long as we're not going back to the days of five lagers and a substandard 'bitter' on tap in every pub you go to, then we're all good.
I must admit that I am partial to asking the bartender to take the sparkler off the cask tap when pouring a pint. I grew up with flat beer and sparklers seem to be an industry way of trying to sell bitter to people who expect beer to be fizzy.
Thankfully it has changed for the better, but I am worried about the effects of the lockdown on the upstart good-beer pubs. My local had finally given into my nagging and was permanently keeping a dark beer on tap, which is a rare find here; IPAs and the like are much more popular :D
Apparently in England (can't speak for Wales) there's a regional divide - Us southerners like a relatively flat ale, with no real head. In the north a beer ought to have a bit of fizz and hold a foamy head.
Yeah I wonder if the lockdown is going to kill any of the local industry. There are three or four decent ale and craft bars in walking distance of my house, and I'd like to keep it that way.
A sparkler is like the aerator on a hand washing tap, it screws on to the beer dispensing tap (the one fixed to the bar, not a keg tap). It aerates, or they used to. Beer technology has moved on a lot in the more-than-a-decade since I was the wrong side of the bar.
Since the start of lock-down in mid-March, I'm now brewing my fourth batch of home brew. I recently purchased Durden Park Beer Circle's Old British Beers and How to Make Them[1] book. I'm looking forward to trying out a few of the old recipes.
I am also worried about the potential closure of a couple of good pubs serving craft beer in my location. I even contacted the owner of my local to suggest I support him by buying beer directly to take home, but he said regulations prevent him and he didn't want to risk his licence. Hopefully they'll be able to open again soon.
I'm a homebrewer myself. Used to use home-made fly-sparging kit but have moved to BIAB because it's so much less cleanup and still gives great results.
I have a Saison coming towards the end of its fermentation at the moment, to be kegged soon. I know it's not 'real ale' that way ... I've had some good results bottling stouts in the past but the preparation and cleanup is so much more than kegging, and my attempts at emulating a cask have been poor.
Not really - according to 2018 on-trade numbers, ale is 24% by value of beer sold, and cask is 55% of ale, so cask ale is just 13.2% of all beer:
https://www.marstons.co.uk/docs/reports/2018/on-trade-beer-r...
(this is published by Marston's, but i believe the data is for the whole industry)
Train passengers who want a drink are not necessarily the same demographic as pub-goers, but i'm not sure i'd expect them to skew significantly towards cask ale.
> is ruined by movement
Which is why the cutting-edge high-technology solution of "bottles" has been invented. Honestly, i find bottled beers usually better than the cask equivalent, even when i'm not on a train, i think because cask is so sensitive to keeping, whereas bottles usually reach you in mint condition. Although it might just be because the bottled versions are sometimes stronger:
https://www.adnams.co.uk/articles/adnams-broadside-cask-and-...
I'm actually surprised cask ale is as high as 13.2% of all beer sold. While "craft beer" (I hate that term) is en vogue and has made people curious to more traditional style beer, the default pint in most pubs will be something lagery like Carling, Tennents or Carlsberg (all three pretty bad, but Tennent's has a nostalgia factor for me).
Me too. I rented a flat right next to the cathedral when doing a semester as an exchange student in Glasgow 20 years ago. What I did't get was how someone, at some point, sold that plot of land next to a 1000 year old cathedral and cemetery, to the smelly Tennent's brewery! Every time I walked past I'd wonder who had agreed to that, and when. City planning disaster, that. I don't remember much from the semester itself but and I blame that on Tennent's too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scottish_Parliament_Building#L...
Wetherspoons is cheap, but it's not a net good. (Truth be told I stopped eating there after being served a frozen curry - literally solid ice.)
Interesting that they separate out stouts into their own category at 7%. I guess maybe because Guinness dominates stout and that's not a cask ale. I'd have counted it as part of "ale", myself...
> Honestly, i find bottled beers usually better than the cask equivalent,
Aww no, couldn't disagree more. Cask beer is fresh, bottled beer not so much. Even in a bottle, the fragrant, lighter hoppy aromas disappear pretty quickly, so there are whole dimensions missing from the product...
IMHO of course, your preference is yours and not wrong.
I imagine the only reason not to do bottles is because they're liable to being turned into projectiles, but I guess you could just serve it in one of those crap plastic glasses like they would from a cask anyway.
Also because of the way cask ale is dispensed it's pretty much always oxidized after the first couple of pints are pulled so that might be the change in taste you're noticing, since it's in the bottle it doesn't get oxidized.
Doubt we'll see much increase in alcohol sales on trains again now though. A lot of lines already have a ban on drinking due to so many problems. Near me there's a ban between Pontypridd and Merthyr Tydfil specifically, but not the rest of that line.
Lager is also cheaper, which matters if you're defining a pint as a pint in a pub. We are a nation of alcoholics, lots of people drink at home.
[0] https://www.srf.ch/static/cms/images/960w/3527cc.jpg
[1] http://media7.news.ch/news/680/339117-c0ed039d03cc1b9f5e5986...
[2] https://img.blick.ch/news/2535226-v4-starbucks-mitarbeiterin...
And infinitely better food than a British pub ;)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maharajas%27_Express
https://www.the-maharajas.com/maharajas/maharajas-express-ph...
This is an old trope. Like the English language, British cuisine takes all the good bits from everywhere and if you go to pubs in England you can find some terrific food. Of course, it can very variable, but all in all I'd say London is shoulder to shoulder with Naples as the food capitals of Europe.
Even the middling pubs seem to make some sort of effort these days.
While I've definitely had great food in pubs and I agree that London has spectacular food options, I'd still opine that across England as a whole, "good pub food" is the exception rather than the norm.
Here in the Cotswolds we're spoilt for choice - there's at least one good food pub in pretty much every village. The same's true of the Yorkshire Dales, much of Mid-Wales, much of the South-West, and so on.
Generally in the ex-industrial areas it'll be less impressive. Pub food in much of the Midlands, for example, is essentially whatever's offered by the owning chain (often Marstons or Greene King). But it's not necessarily terrible, and there are some smaller chains who are pretty good (e.g. Brunning & Price). It's more a function of the fact that the pub is ubiquitous in British society - you wouldn't expect haute cuisine from a bar in the Midwest either.
I lived in the Midlands for half a year, and I've spent a good deal of time in the American rust belt as well (via a job where I had to travel a lot). A typical English meal is significantly more bland than meals served elsewhere in the world, and I think it throws people off who don't already have a relationship with it and therefore can't perceive it as comfort food. It took me months to warm up to.
That's not to say "food in England is bad". I'm ethnically Hispanic, and ended up eating a ton of Turkish food and Indian food during my time there, which was spicy, flavorful, not too common in America at the time, and awesome. And a full English breakfast with your friends when you're all a bit hungover is perfection.
To be fair for every Green Dragon (Cowley) or Tunnel House (Coates / Sapperton) there are plenty of tourist traps selling pre-made cook-chill food from microwaves or tired carveries.
I think the tourist trap pubs are largely restricted to the few honeypots - Bourton-on-the-Water springs to mind, but then I've had good pub food in both Stow and Broadway.
These are the places people actually live.
Thai restaurant upstairs, pub downstairs (where you can order the Thai food too).
Similar thing near me in London, very middling karaoke pub with pretty decent curry from upstairs.
》London is shoulder to shoulder with Naples as the food capitals ^ yeah... <insert expletive here>
Maybe some high-end London locations have the same easy access to fresh and better food (via dedicated airplane rides), but that does not make London one of "the food capitals of Europe".
If you happen to select veg that is actually available local and in season, you can get it fresh. That means you have to be a bit selective; the most premium example is probably asparagus. Lots of UK veg growing is in nearby counties like Kent.
The British reputation for disastrous food is mostly a legacy of rationing combined with a slightly colder temperate climate, and ceased to be representative in the 90s.
It may not be as bad as it was in the 90s, but I still find nicer stuff in supermarkets in Spain, France, Germany.
Of course I'm not usually shopping at the equivalent of Tescos on the outskirts of town when I visit a supermarket on the continent, but I'm not exactly searching hard either.
Food in London is great, and varied. I don't much enjoy most Asian food, but London has a lot of it, in a way that e.g. Paris isn't as good at. OTOH I've had a much better hit rate, and at cheaper prices, in Barcelona for great food in restaurants, ethnicity aside.
Sainsbury and Tesco are on par with Carrefour and Mercadona. Waitrose is on par with or better than Albert Heijn. But the Chinese supermarkets through Europe have the best value and range of ingredients for cooking, imo.
>I don't much enjoy most Asian food
I'm so sorry. :(
Later edit: Please do substantiate your point in what you think makes London food great, with some examples, maybe I've been living in the dark all this time in thinking that a place that glorifies "fish and chips" cannot be the "culinary capital of Europe".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Spitalfields_Market https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billingsgate_Fish_Market https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smithfield%2C_London#Market
You have to arrive at these markets extremely early in the morning. This is the case with any b2b market, e.g. Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo:
In the meantime if you're into cocktails the bar manager of Nightjar (same owners as Oriole) has some great videos online: https://www.diffordsguide.com/g/1151/tonys-cocktails
I am not affiliated with Oriole or Nightjar in any way, just a huge fan. (So much a fan that I've flown in to the UK on several occasions just to go to these places, can't praise them enough!)
What I'm saying is that London cannot compete with countries/provinces where plums or what have you grow just a 15-min van drive away from said restaurants, and as such calling a city like London "the food capital of Europe" is a joke. Anyway, also calling Napoli the "food capital of Europe is a joke" because of its size and population density, I can assure you that a 2- or 3-hour drive to the South can get you to some random Calabria small town with way better food than you can get in most of Napoli.
But the food-mania is high with many people who think that just because a place happens to have money it also has good food.
London is only 35 miles away from the sea, how far do you think it is to a field.
As to your Van Drive: For example, Brixham (160 miles) is a popular place to get high quality seafood for the posher end of the restauraunts, this is ~3hr30. Getting fresh ingredients to london is a completely solved problem.
What do the poor eat where you come from?
Also, "I've visited London only once 10 years ago but I don't remember any fishermen bringing their catch in the morning": Restaurants will be stocking up roughly when dawn breaks, and not through the front door.
Billingsgate fish market opens at 4am and closes at 8am. Peak is 4am to 5am (by which time all the best fish will have been sold); if you want a bargain you wait until 7am.
https://www.intotheblue.co.uk/blog/2017/06/26/billingsgate-f...
This conversation is a bit weird. There's plenty of terrible food in London. I don't think anyone would disagree with that. But there is also a lot of very good food in London. I guess it depends what you mean by good food, but there are over 60 restaurants with Michelin stars. (3 with 3 stars, 10 with 2 stars).
(I upvoted you. I think you're wrong but you're polite and adding to the conversation.)
London has the largest fish, meat, and veg markets in the UK (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_markets_in_London#Whol...) sourcing fresh every day
you don't need to right be next to a field to have fresh produce every day and yes, there are plenty of farms near London
You kind of have, because frozen produce is not the same as real fresh stuff. Yes, better-off people living in metropolises like London or NYC (like many of the users in here) probably lie to themselves in thinking that their money can purchase better food compared to a peasant in Turkey who lives just between an orchard and the Aegean See, but that is not the case.
> What do you imagine does surround London?
Suburbia? Is there anything else for a radius of 50-60 km?
> Is it fish caught in that same day like you can get in any Greek taverna in the Cyclades?
The UK has some of the richest fishing waters in the world. We have so much that we export worldwide. Of course it's available in London.
> Suburbia? Is there anything else for a radius of 50-60 km?
How big do you think the suburbs of London are? It's not LA. Draw a 60 km radius circle around London and take a look at the expanse of rural England for yourself.
> I've visited London only once 10 years ago
Clearly.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metropolitan_Green_Belt
You can also hit the sea in that distance from London.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suffolk#Economy
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norfolk#Economy_and_industry
Yes. There's huge amount of fish bought in from inside the UK from Cornwall/Brixham etc etc. Never mind all the stuff that's air freighted here.
>Or frozen fish brought in from half a continent away?
All fish in the EU is frozen anyway [1].
1. https://www.food.gov.uk/business-guidance/freezing-fish-and-...
Yes
>Or frozen fish brought in from half a continent away?
You can get that too.
The negative response you are getting from users is because you are completely wrong about inability to get high quality, same day picked/slaughtered/fished food in London.
edit: in regard to frozen fish, I trust that the Japanese (who regularly freeze the absolutely highest grade Tuna during transit) know what they are doing.
For me, standing up is what makes the travelling pub most interesting - how did passengers avoid spilling their beers?
I always wanted to do a train tour but somehow the Transsib did not interest me so much. India is a much more intriguing country for me.
I've put it on my list! Thank you :)
Was before my time and I do recall the buffett cars and resturant cars and could buy cans of alcohol.
Though in many parts (whole London area for sure) you are now not allowed to drink and it is illegal. Which for many, disagree with. Though you are not allowed to smoke on the platforms at stations either, which is a good thing IMHO - though it was darn handy to work out were to stand at a station so when the train stopped you would be near the doors to embark as you could see the grouping of cigarette butts grouping on the tracks near the door hotspots.
Would this work today - nope as in many of the routes, they can't even provide enough seats and often see services that are the polar opposite of what we class as social distancing by today's standards. Indeed, the game sardines would be a step-up on space for many services.
Alas rail - least in the UK, is expensive, crowded and sad when you can get a return flight from London to Scotland for less than a single ticket from London to Birmingham - much less alas and also quicker.
Commuter services are very different - and yes, this wouldn't work on those routes today.
What with TFL gradually expanding, one does wonder what the future does hold.
But it doesn't apply to train services within London operated by train companies. You can get on the train at Finsbury Park, crack open a can, and enjoy it on the way into Moorgate.
In short, if you can pay by Oyster - your can't drink and ride. Unless of course you're an MP and then apparently you just do it and play down any drama and no fines at all.
So based on experience, other experiences and laws.
Also note many companies run dry-trains, so with that, can't drink or carry(questionable as long as sealed and not been open you can afaik).
https://www.drinkaware.co.uk/alcohol-facts/alcohol-and-the-l...
I know there are specific trains where drinking is banned. Elsewhere in this thread, there are some examples in Wales. I can't find anything about it being banned on trains to Chessington, or anywhere on South Western Railway, though. Not can their help person on Twitter:
Rather than doubling down on your argument, accept you are wrong and move on.
This is wrong. You can pay with an Oyster for Thameslink services out of and through London for example and drink on those. It literally only applies to Tfl operated services.
Had a check on thamelink and darn - lucky you https://twitter.com/tlrailuk/status/1078740639674744834?lang...
Just don't move to the otherside of London if you like a drink.
You can bring your own alcohol on all 3 of the NYC-area commuter rail systems and drink if you want with the exception of some of late night hours/major drinking holidays.
Note that rail in the UK has effectively been taken back into public ownership due to the coronavirus crisis (it's being run by the private companies still, but for a set fee determined by government - they're not getting any of the money from ticket sales). And it's widely suspected that it won't return to the previous franchise model when the crisis is over (as there was a recent government report recommending this, and apparently there were already plans in the works to shake things up).
We really must ask more of our politicians than just headline statements.
It's eminently possible that the Gov's idea of an alternative to the private franchise model will be much worse.
You can drink on the rail network through most of the country. Most of the longer distance trains either have a drinks/snacks hatch or a trolley that goes up and down the train selling drinks and snacks.
I agree the service is in a pretty dire state and crazy expensive.
The real competition for trains is automobiles and coaches, due to road-building having been prioritized since the 1950s. Also, rail fares have risen faster than inflation ever since privatization, and the surplus were siphoned off to the private-sector owners rather than being reinvested in modernization. Hence the current poor state of affairs.
The main competition for medium-distance routes is absolutely road, which has the majority share (cheaper, but normally slower on the main intercity trunks).
Many of the train operating companies are in fact owned by foreign governments. Abellio is Nederlandse Spoorwegen, Arriva is Deutsche Bahn, Govia is SNCF.
Changing this would need to start with a cultural change, but the traditional values we'd need to go back to are out of fashion.
Not everywhere in the UK is lucky enough to have a good train service, but overall the service today is much better than the 80s.
I'd actually say my normal commute into Edinburgh from Fife is actually quite enjoyable - getting a seat isn't a problem in the mornings and maybe once a month I have to stand for 10 minutes on the train coming back, which is hardly an ordeal. Fellow passengers all seem fairly pleasant as well!
I would say that 95% of my train travel has been between Edinburgh, Glasgow and up to Inverness and beyond.
Only TfL it seems. I've been on a London-Doncaster train and was served alcohol before we even left King's Cross (complementary - it was only about £2 more for a first class ticket - and the train was barely even moving before they started serving).
Not the case, only on TfL services. Commuter trains you can if you like.
In Hampshire (UK) you can catch the Real Ale Train (RAT)[1] - an old fashioned steam train which potters up and down a few miles of track, serving beer from local breweries, via an on-board bar. It stops at various stations which have been preserved as they would have been in the 1950s.
You don't actually go anywhere, but the experience of quaffing ale with friends whilst watching the world go by on a balmy summer's evening is amazing.
[1] https://www.watercressline.co.uk/product.php/139/real-ale-tr...
It is on a regular schedule in the evening - well, when a pandemic is not going on.
It was delightful to take a day and visit the Schweberbahn of Wuppertal, a hanging rail system that has resisted modernity for more than a hundred years. It is a delightful, little trip, even if it took all day to drive to Wuppertal to try it out.
And then there was the time I got on the wrong train to Munich, from Dusseldorf, ended up in Hamburg, and had to take the night train across the country. The DB booze wagon was a veritable club, replete with a DJ and plenty of grog to keep the conundrums away. The fresh air out the window, somewhere in the middle of German Greenland, at 3am in the morning - this was a safe, adventurous drinking session. Thank goodness for 'die Kabine', lock and key and all.
A Friday afternoon jaunt from the Rührgebiet to Amsterdam Central - not the best food by far, but a restaurant on the way, nevertheless, to finer treats.
I came to believe that Americans, for all their faults, could not be forgiven for adopting the freeway instead of the railway as their most virulent expressions of freedom. Nothing quite like spending the badly needed 3 hours before a meeting, staring out at the landscape slinging by, while your presentation is uploaded in comfort and class ..