Shaking Up the Diamond Industry
newyorker.com
newyorker.com
I distinctly remember going into the (then state-owned) workshops as a kid and watching the cutters at work with their loupes, and how they kept tabs on stones by checking in and out of the vaults little envelopes annotated with each step of the process - it was true craftsmanship.
Biggest stone I “saw” (they did resin molds of the large ones for senior cutters to measure and mark the places for clamping and cutting, and my father would bring some models home to study and review other cutters’ suggestions) was about 2x2x3cm, and IIRC it was cut down into many smaller ones due to impurities (you’d cut a window to peer in, assess where the impurities were and then plan the cuts to excise them or avoid including them into the finished cut).
The techniques are sure to be vastly different today, but the detachment with which he viewed his work was rather fun: they were intricate puzzles to maximize yield during the rough cut phase and reflectiveness during the shaping phase - they did the math by hand for the facet sizes and angles, and it took years to figure out the best ways to do some of the shaping in a reproducible fashion (that was his key achievement).
And all that time, they were “just pretty rocks”. He was very nonchalant about it, and never considered them of much value. DeBeers tried to hire him and he pretty much said he was done with the hype (rather amusing considering I’m about his age at the time and also fed up with our industry hype).
(Also, if you read Michael Crichton’s “Congo”, he got the diamond color names wrong)
I remember a few dinner conversations about how a few of them came to my father to assess the value of those stones, and most were chunks of quartz or other worthless crystals.
I think some of those conversations were really tough, and one of the reasons he disconnected from work as much as he could (his hobby was electronics, and one of the reasons I got into computers was that he brought a Sinclair ZX81 from London after years of putting together various kits, including a HeathKit oscilloscope).
So, in a way, diamonds are the reason I do what I do these days.
[0]: https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/1982/02/have-yo...
2012: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=4535611
2010: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=1405698
Also 2010: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=1110283
Those are the big threads. Lots of little ones too: https://hn.algolia.com/?dateRange=all&page=0&prefix=false&qu...
The author showed up here once: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=5414757
That sounds like a disaster to come if she doesn't know, and she learns it by going to the jeweler to clean / repair the stone.
Spend the money in something better and that will further the relationship, like the honeymoon.
Which you won’t spend anyway because you’ll have nothing and no one to spend it on. But smugness and pride are truly priceless.
Honeymoon's over. Ever heard that? I was thinking more in the buy a home or invest in stocks
I don't think I changed her perspective necessarily, but she knows what she got and respected my reasons for that decision. She didn't break up with me over it anyway.
It also avoids conversations that have few good outcomes. Tell someone who spent $$$$ on a diamond that you think diamonds are a waste of money or a humanitarian disaster, and it's not a great way to start a conversation. There are also other colored stones that I think are nicer looking than diamonds, but moissanite provides a nice way to stay within cultural norms without necessarily[1] contributing to the problem.
[1] Obviously actively fighting against the whole diamond industry is better, but we all have to pick our battles.
That concept was invented by an ad agency paid for by de Beers.
https://blog.hubspot.com/marketing/diamond-de-beers-marketin...
Does anyone really pay attention and judge others based on their choice of wedding jewelry, or wearing any, or being married even, in 2020?
Never believe we live in a more enlightened age. The subtlety of the points people find to mock astounds me.
Rubies are much cheaper than that.
At least, I used to order them from Pehnec Gems at prices more like $3 per (in lots of 10+). I haven't bought them in years and pehnec.com currently resolves to 10.0.0.1; not sure what's going on.
Once they were mass produced the criteria changed and now the "natural" with higher degree of impurities (a previously undesirable trait) are considered better.
It's not about the rock. The rock is a placeholder. It's about how much you spent on the rock (commitment) and the fact that it's not available to everyone (social proof).
The goalpost will always move because the things used to justify it are excuses and not real reasons.
Charles and Colvard has an online shop you can find by googling.
No affiliation, my wife's stone is just also a moissanite.
The site was previously on ShowHN. I was in the process of looking a few months ago and found the overview of how the market works interesting: https://blog.onetruerock.com/blog/OneTrueRockValue
and that beats the purpose: "how much did you pay for that diamond. Must've cost a fortune." The idea is not wear something bigger, if it's cheaper
Cubic zirconia is so cheap that those stones come in plastic bags and are sold in lots of 1000.
Distinguishing CVD diamonds from natural diamonds is getting harder each year. The diamond industry treats flawless, clear diamonds as the ideal, and that's what CVD produces best - perfect crystals with only carbon. It's based on a process from semiconductor manufacturing. Distinguishing good CVD diamonds from natural now requires rather elaborate equipment.
[1] https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-manufacturer-Di...
Imagine having two ot of the otherwise same thing in front of you but one comes with an optional marketing hype tax.
Well, for approximately flawless, clear diamonds, yes, actually flawless, clear diamonds are the ideal.
But, e.g., blue diamonds are, like, vastly preferred by the market over clear ones, with a couple orders of magnitude price premium, iirc.
A $10 million campaign or so, targeting youth especially, can have tremendous impacts on future generations.
Seems pretty good deal for the Botswanans.
I don't really know about Botswana though, if those money actually go to the Botswanans then good for them.
Botswana is probably the best run and least corrupt country in Southern Africa (maybe all of Africa). They've never had a war of any kind, are incredibly friendly to everyone regardless of skin color, etc. etc.
They are famous for tricking the British into giving them mineral rights before they were granted independence, and have used that money wisely the benefit the local people. Huge success story, and fantastic country.
The diamond idea is based on having something that resembles luxury, like yachts and expensive champagne. It was initial marketed on the idea that you only love someone if you sacrifice your salary for a month or two to buy a ring. We can keep that concept (because that'll be tough to change) but shift the object:
Somehow we want to make all that kind of stuff look morally disgusting, i.e. private jets with CO2 emissions that help kill the planet and people with floods and fires, and rich snobs spending money on pearls when they could be donating to charity. Another 2008 crisis which will happen like clockwork would be a great wave to surf for getting momentum behind the idea. More homeless middle class and rich bankers will make people angry.
The idea is to make luxury and opulence (but not necessary money) seem bad to the middle class, in the same way as advocating slavery would seem bad.
Then the replacement could be a donation to the charity that the receiver of the engagement ring chooses. The ring could be a simple 18ct gold band or gold plated. It could be 3D printed from an unusual material. Doesn't matter that it costs $50 or whatever, it's now just a symbol, it could have imprinted on it the cause that was donated to.
The $10M would be spent on seed funding for a company to sell this kind of product, because then it's profits can be reinvested in marketing it further, rather than the "1 superbowl ad" that someone else mentioned in jest.
Also, the audio version is wonderfully read. Recommended.
I had no idea how much bort the world consumes. Industrial diamonds are .. industrial. Hard to feel romantic about drill bits and cutting saws.
Also the simplicity of the financials to lend liz Taylor the dough to buy the diamond .. Who actually bought it if the money came from the shop?
If a girl in Iowa can easily get a 3 carat diamond ring, what will the girl in New York now want?
Big rocks on a finger make the person seem needy and insecure. Like I need this big flashy thing is proof of my worth.
"wear-resistant bearings, heat sinks for computer processors, and high-temperature windows."
Wow, I forgot about that - looks like that you can buy one of the best thermal pastes out there for VERY reasonable prices... and it's 90%+ diamond !!
On this note, a book recommendation: The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions.
Thorsten Veblen, 1899.
More relevant now than ever. From Wikipedia, a short summary:
> a treatise on economics and a detailed, social critique of conspicuous consumption, as a function of social class and of consumerism, derived from the social stratification of people and the division of labour, which are social institutions of the feudal period that have continued to the modern era.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Theory_of_the_Leisure_Clas...
I believe he coined the phrase Conspicuous Consumption.
I can imagine if you "know the truth" about the business you're in you might want to get out. I felt like that about certain financial jobs I've had in the past. The actual work felt like it provided no real value to society, but the intellectual challenges were what kept me there.
HFT is a great example mentioned by a sibling comment. You kind of need some number of traders out there to make sure that market prices are honest and fair. HFT has done a great job of reducing (a) the number of people involved in trading per dollar traded and (b) the amount of money made by traders per dollar traded.
To be clear, nothing wrong with that. But from a personal perspective you start to question your contribution.
But how does eg an algorithm that sells stock when the newspaper headlines have a "negative sentiment" help ensure that "market prices are honest and fair"? What's "honest and fair" about stocks across the board dropping because of bushfires or a virus outbreak, only to rise back to pre-headline levels half a day later?
When the virus starts, the markets adjust downwards because there is a chance that virus kills tens of millions, which would have severe economic impact.
As the world public health starts to reduce the error bars or bad outcome likelihood, the market adjusts.
The problem is that you’re thinking of something as having a concrete value. Instead, think like Tetlock teaches in superforecasters. Then you will have a better model of what’s going on.
A sign of a broken system that needs urgent repair. Most financial jobs, hft, adtech jobs... We have our best minds working on things that do not provide any useful value to society. This is not a good state of affairs.
If modern advertising 1) did not vacuum up personal data in extremely invasive ways, 2) didn't distort the entire business models of the largest tech companies against the interests of the overwhelming majority of their users, and 3) wasn't a broad attack vector on that same user population (dark patterns, outright malware delivery, just plain terrible UX everywhere, etc.)... then there'd probably be very little complaint about advertising, relatively speaking.
Put another way: no one gripes about the existence of Craigslist. Thought experiment: what if the targeted advertising model was illegal, both enforceable and enforced with teeth. How much of what's detrimental about modern advertising would simply vanish, like a bad memory?
>people found that by showing targeted ads they'd have to show less of them to get the same amount of new customers
I mean, did they really? Where can I read about these successes?
I might even acquiesce to some form of push-based ads being broadly beneficial (e.g. for truly novel offerings), but for almost everything that currently shows up as an ad I would much rather be able to efficiently search for it and find it once I'm actually ready to buy than to be inundated with hundreds or thousands of worthless ads ahead of time in the off chance that they'll bring a particular product to the forefront of my mind and sway my purchasing decisions.
That's kind of the point of frameworks like async/await :) Adtech is using a polling system to try and demand my attention with a, let's say, 1% success rate, but we could cut down the noise 100x simply by awaiting my next purchasing decision.
But at least De Beers didn't try to track individual brides and grooms and show them different diamonds based on what they were talking about on the phone. Maybe they do now.
Sobel's The First Junk Bond, gives the mechanics of preservation of the vast onshore reserves, until (I don't have the recall but I think Sobel gives the trigger price) $50/B plateaux.
In 95 I wrote the level of inefficiency in agency transactions was 60%.
In 2018, stories on the embedded framework fraud of online advertising buying, gave the same number for the new system's inefficiency.
Print, my world despite the gasping inhalation of every party I speak with, remains almost unchanged in headline volumes, despite the unbroken prophecy of all trade journalism.
I am very much interested in knowing your thoughts, should you, on reflection find my point above not to be self evident.