I'm in the same boat. I'm coming up to speed on a very large, 5 year old monolith RoR codebase.
I fucking hate the thing.
I've done quite a bit of web dev across a pretty large variety of languages (c/c++/c#/php/js/golang/other).
They all have rough edges, but never in my career have I been more frustrated than when dealing with Ruby on Rails.
The tooling is... the best I can call it is bad. Simple things like jump to definition just don't work, basically anywhere, autocomplete is non-existent. RubyMine is the closest to functional, but it's still MILES away from good.
Non of that alone is a deal breaker - I've written sites in plain old notepad or gedit, but when languages have bad tooling, I expect good documentation. Rails is off in la-la magic land though. Docs are hard to find and inconsistent. I'll frequently find documentation that contradicts itself (ex: Are middleware "Set-Cookie" headers delimited by a comma, or returned as an array? Ans - Trick question, the documentation says both in different places, but it's actually a newline, which isn't documented fucking anywhere.)
Trying to just figure out where a method definition lives is needlessly tiring. I asked a long time dev at the company how he finds the source for methods that are magically pulled in by rails. His answer: "I do a global search for "def [name]" and if that doesn't find it, I give up and ask the development slack channel". Personally, I find that mind-boggling.
And honestly, I guess most of my frustration isn't really Ruby. It's Rails. I don't love that Ruby seems to encourage the "make it a dsl!" type programmer, but by itself there are good times/places for that. Rails though? It just doesn't scale for humans.
Rails feels like it started off with a solid idea - Don't worry about the boilerplate, just write productive code, we'll handle the magic. And that works great... up to a point. But that point was years back. Now the whole ecosystem has grown to the point where I HAVE to understand at least some of the magic, but because they didn't want you to see it, it's really, REALLY hard to get good answers about how/where all the various bits play together. Instead you chase outdated docs, bad stack overflow answers, and shitty forum posts.
I came on board pretty excited to pick up Ruby on Rails. A year in and I'm pretty convinced that I'll recommend basically ANY other framework and toolset.