My first half was with a supervisor similar to what OP described. Fortunately I was able to transfer halfway through to a much better supervisor. I have seen both sides, having a good supervisor makes a massive difference.
Even so, now that I am finished, the emotional drain of the first two years and lack of time to properly recover has left me completely BURNT OUT.
OP, please take the advice of musicale, it is EXACTLY RIGHT.
I am a little dissapointed to find many comments here putting the responsibility on the (prospective) PhD student. I'm sure this is the case sometimes. In my case I was absolutely happy doing independent research at all times in my life apart from with this horrendous supervisor who, at all turns, made it difficult to do good science.