> Logically it is a single proof, but technically it consists of quite a few theorems and lemmas, so this is not a valid comparison.
I think it's 100% valid, indeed, the Metamath and/or Metamath Zero verifiers are verifying much more. I'm measuring time to verify ALL proofs of an entire system, including every theorem and lemma. The Coq measure you're quoting is the time to verify just a single proof with its lemmas. Coq is slower at verifying "a single proof of a theorem including all its lemmas" (though a complex one) than Metamath is at verifying "proofs of all theorems including all lemmas". To be fair, Coq is not designed to do this quickly, so that should not be surprising.
> Also proofs in Coq are typically structured and are pretty complex because of all the automation, while metamath proofs look like core dumps :)
You're showing the "compressed" format. That's simply its internal storage format, which is normally optimized to reduce storage space. Humans do not need to work in that format (and usually don't). Normally for final display the proofs are shown in HTML, for example:
> http://us.metamath.org/mpeuni/f1o2ndf1.html
Note that in the HTML display every step is justified by a hyperlink; you can click on the hyperlink to see the justification (recursively). For example, step 3 uses the justification "syl"; if you click on "syl" you'll find that it says that if โข (๐ โ ๐) and โข (๐ โ ๐) then โข (๐ โ ๐). The theorem syl is itself proved, and you can click on its links to see how it derives all the way back to definitions and axioms.
If you want to see just simple text, you can see the proof in text format by installing "metamath" and running this:
> metamath 'read set.mm' 'show proof f1o2ndf1'
As far as "structured" goes, I think structuring proofs is necessary for any system. A complex proof in Metamath is typically built up from axioms, previous proofs, and lemmas as needed. I think that's necessary for any math verification system.