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I think it's even enjoyable by people who would be put off by the phrase 'alarmingly postmodern'.

It's playful and weird and meta, sure, but it's not difficult (or purely an excuse for Calvino to show off), and there is sincerity not far below the surface.

Perhaps I chose my words poorly; I very much enjoyed reading it, and would strongly recommend it to anyone.

Sorry, I didn't mean that as a criticism, and your message was pretty clear. I just thought that some people (possibly me, if I hadn't already read the book) might be unnecessarily put off by that final phrase.

Perhaps another work, in a similar vein (I thought it was better than, if on a winter's night..) is Vladimir Nabakov's Pale Fire.

I can not judge for all languages, but the french translation of this book is excellent.