This looks like great fun, but I'd prefer to make something where the output is a little more precise.
Does anyone know of a DIY plotter that's a step up quality wise from this one? Or maybe a site or community that lists similar projects?
Does anyone know of a DIY plotter that's a step up quality wise from this one? Or maybe a site or community that lists similar projects?
Also don't discount polar style hanging plotters they can be tricky accuracy wise due to sway, which i've seen countered both by decreasing plotting speed and by working the potential sway into your design. Just a quick search turned up this https://www.hackster.io/fredrikstridsman/stringent-the-15-wa.... You can start small like that and then improve components along the way. Swapping the string for beaded cord or timing belt etc. They are patricularly interesting drawbots because if you want to plot a larger area you can just spread out the motors and add more string.
Vertical plotters are usually hard to install and calibrate but his looks like one you could slap on coworkers whiteboard and print something while he is on lunch break ;)
Cut your cardboard and fiberglass to whatever size and shape you like. You're going to make a sandwich: fiberglass, cardboard, fiberglass. Wear disposable gloves. Cover your benchtop in two layers of cling film. Put your sandwich down, carefully rub epoxy into the top fiberglass, two layers shrink wrap on top, flip the thing over, rub epoxy into the second fiberglass, more cling film. Put it in press with some weight, leave overnight. If your cardboard has some thickness and good compressive strength, the strength of the resulting sandwich is probably such that you won't be able to break a 10 cm long stick with your bare hands.
3D printing is cool. But for random repairs around the house, or building strong flat things like this, epoxy and fiberglass is the bee's knees. We've built stand up paddle boards with this technique, just replacing the cardboard with XPS plates. No vacuum bagging required, really. (Of course it would give further strength and much improved aesthetics.)
The material is so solid that a meter-wide hold is actually just an empty shell with a thickness of a few mm. This easily withstands a heavy dude jumping onto it sideways (in fact, that's what it's there for!)
I'm biased towards 3D printing simply because I already have my own printer, so it's simply the fastest method for me (not including print time, but epoxies have to cure anyway).
I would actually expect more of a ventilation requirement from your 3D printer! Here is one set of safety recommendations for working with ABS/PLA: https://www.safety.rochester.edu/ih/3Dprinters.html
But if you are really worried, go get a 3M 7502 mask with a 6001 organic vapor cartridge. These are cheap. That's what the manufacturer (West System) MSDS says to use in case of no ventilation.
Skin contact is a bigger concern. 1 in 5 develop dermatitis upon skin contact, and some get more severe allergic reactions. So wear good gloves, blue nitrile ones that fit well with decent thickness, not the cheap latex stuff.
Its creator is the developer behind the ESP-32 GRBL port.
I have a Roland DXY-1100 from ~1990, an A3 flatbed design that is very precise. To make it go I had to build a weird serial adaptor and a weirder two-voltage DC power supply, so I count it as DIY! Because old plotters like this were originally designed for commercial use (design, architecture, engineering, etc.) they're often very well designed and well made, so still good despite their age.
Chiplotle (note the extra "l") is a handy Python library for controlling plotters like this.
Unfortunately I managed to short out my power supply and fry one of the voltage converters, so I need to remake the power supply and make an actual case for it so I don't do that again!
I also have a much bigger Roland plotter (not flatbed), but I haven't got that going yet.
The mechanical construction also introduces imprecision.