Baking a Better Loaf of Bread
theguardian.com
theguardian.com
- Flour Water Salt Yeast by Ken Forkish
- The Bread Baker's Apprentice by Peter Reinhart
- The King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion
Having never baked anything complex before, those books have been amazing in learning how to bake. The bread is amazing and tastes as good as a small bakery.
Ken Forkish also makes a book called "The Elements of Pizza" and shows you how to make Italian, NY, and several over styles of pizza too. That in my opinion is a must have book if you want to make Pizza.
The first book flour water salt yeast was the first book I got, and they really help you learn how to bake yeast breads.
Structuring is basically a series of stretches and folds that shape the bread and arrange the stretches of gluten. You need gluten strength to be able to do that. Bread without structure won't puff up properly and will be dense. Bread that is over proofed, loses it's structure (it collapses) because when the yeast runs out of food and starts breaking down your gluten.
Indeed the temperature, water content, yeast strength & amount all factor into what will happen. So, adjust timings in recipes accordingly and use the fridge to your advantage to slow things down. A slow cold proof builds more taste than a quick warm one.
Basically what I’m saying is don’t buy a fancy proofing set up, maybe use the oven with the light bulb on, but probably just make sure you leave good time / wake up earlier ;-).
We did a test and letting it sit in the fridge covered for 3-4 days definitely improved it over the suggested same-day use in the recipe. A longer, slower rise seems to be the trend if you can find the time, and the fridge ensures a consistent temperature. It also made it easier to work with, the recipe was quite wet (I've heard wetter is better for pizza dough but it was super sticky).
https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/10/nancy-silvertons...
Get an expanded polystyrene crate [1], the sort of things market traders use, a seedling mat and a relay thermostat. Wire together and you have a reasonably accurate climate controlled box. The box will be the most expensive thing, but I bought a very large one (too large, to be honest) and it was about £35. For a single loaf, you only need an interior volume enough to fit something a standard plastic food container [3]. A 4L container will barely do a 1kg batch, so size up.
This is essentially the design that Noma use in their fermentation book [2]. Hint: you can see the design in the preview on Google Books (page 42).
I set mine around 26-27C for bread, seems to work quite well. I've not bothered to measure how accurate the setpoint is.
[1] https://hydropac.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/deluxe-1.j... [2] https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/The_Noma_Guide_to_Fer... [3] https://www.nisbets.co.uk/cambro-square-polycarbonate-food-s...
There are a gazillion similar videos out there but this one is pretty informative and he's a bit of a food hacker.
Regarding what TFA mentions of "gluten intolerance" - I think it's hard from a biochemistry perspective, based purely on what concentrations we're talking about, to support the hypothesis that the vital wheat gluten is a culprit. My personal theory is that it's a combination of fermentability of what you eat (which is obviously lower in "proper" bread) and mechanical properties that causes problems for people who are "gluten intolerant" but not celiac. (Just to clarify, by putting "gluten intolerant" into scare quotes, I don't mean to say it's not a real thing. Just that I personally don't think gluten is the actual bad guy.)
That should be the first thing one should learn to cook. To make some bread.
I used to not really know how to cook, but my fiancée has been encouraging me to. Its like any skill. At first you just feel overwhelmed, but you gradually learn more and more how to cook and make better food. It's also really exciting to take something and make it from scratch.
My only disappointment now when I cook is it makes eating out much more difficult. I get really disappointed when I go eat something that I know I could have made better.
As an example, there's a recipe that calls for 3/16th teaspoons of yeast. Why didn't he just write 1/4 tsp? There is no way that 1/16ths of a teaspoon make any sort of difference given all the other factors at play. This kind of faux precision abounds in the book and can make the activity pretty stressful.
It's a great introduction to bread baking, but once you get the hang of things you realize the precision he requires in his recipes is simply not called for. You can bake great bread in less time, or more time, or with cooler water, or warmer water of whatever--and have more fun doing it. (Also, his sourdough recipe is criminally wasteful).
To anyone trying to get into bread: Definitely use FWSY to get a better "feel" for dough, but as soon as you do I suggest you leave it behind. Have fun. Tartine is a great second book.
Baking is not like other types of cooking where you can adjust as you go.
As long as I get half a tablespoon of coarse salt and a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups of water per loaf, everything else works itself out based on feel. May not be as repeatable as if I was in a bakery and needed to deliver identical loaves every time, but I've been cranking out delicious bread for my family for a decade and never had an issue just adding flour under it feels right.
I think the oddly precise teaspoon measurements are a side effect of converting from weights, though. Early on he recommends measuring ingredients by weight, and I vaguely remember him saying that the volume measurements were really just a backup if you absolutely couldn't use a scale.
There are a few in the series, but get the first one.
https://www.amazon.com/Tartine-Bread-Chad-Robertson/dp/08118... (not an affiliate link)
It's also very difficult the first time you work with such high hydration doughs, and I would suggest watching:
Chad on Bon Apetit - to see how he actually does it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4dyWZZVeWI
Sourdough on It's Alive, good fun and educational: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oidnwPIeqsI
I also have the River Cottage Handbook on Bread which I strongly recommend for practical recipes.
Also buy a crock pot or a combo cooker. By far the simplest way to get amazing looking bread.
It produces an absolutely incredible flavor. If you give it a slow proof and bake in a cast iron dutch oven, you get these amazing cinnamon and nut smells as it bakes. Just the most delicious bread.
But with home-milled flour, are there no enzymes at all? What happens to the slow-proofed dough?
Are you putting a whole bunch of other stuff in there? There's a reason fat is called "shortening" -- it breaks the gluten strands, and makes the bread crumbly. Unless you're putting a whole bunch of butter or some other fat into the flour, I can't imagine why it would be crumbly.
What are your ingredients?
The "more" also includes fat, as well as other things which might interfere with gluten formation.
There’s a lot of indifferent baguettes, and other basically white bread country loafs.
You're not going to get the loaves you might want, but you have to assess things as they are, not how they compare to what you want. As an example, I lived in Japan for several years. I like crunchy crusts, flavourful sourdough, etc. But the bread scene in Japan is mostly incredibly airy white, buttery crust, focus on pastries etc. I try not to criticize the bread as being boring airy whites, but rather compliment the pastries on their strengths.
The one in Paris was by far the best, but it was bio levian and a pain complet. So that was kind of not fair to the others, but it's the only one that had a real depth of flavor. They were excellent loaves, and I wish I could have had more. (but I only walked past it once, and there's only so much bread you can eat before it goes stale)
Second best has been a Leclerc, surprisingly good. Good crackly crispy crust, good structure in the center. Nice mix of lacy holes and structure. Not just a fluffy almost pain de mie with a leathery crust.
Third best has been another one of the big supermarkets, probably SuperU. They have a coupage or something like that that is probably a very high hydration that's made into a sheet, then cut lengthwise into baguette shapes.
The independent bakeries all seem to have pretty much the same baguettes, they're not great, better than your average store bought bread, but the crumb and structure are far too uniform to be anything other than a mass process.
It's almost as if they're getting the same flour and have pretty much the same process and equipment. Yeah, it's good compared to plastic bagged sliced bread, but I'm comparing it to what I've made and eaten, and I've seen better.
Wheat Populations at Wakelyns Agroforestry Farm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDV_tLmeeFE
The story of Wakelyns Agroforestry https://vimeo.com/256082580
Just like milk-protein and lactose intolerance/allergic is two different things.
Also relevant to know if you are gluten allergic: “... because a product marketed as “gluten-free” must also be free of rye and barley in addition to wheat, those who must avoid only wheat may be limiting themselves.“
https://acaai.org/allergies/types/food-allergies/types-food-...
Edit: there's a rye sourdough she can eat as well, which excludes FODMAPS I think.
Or that may be due to different yeasts? I'd suggest she tries to bake with imported ingredients, then local ones, and mix/match to find the culprit.
Basically some whole wheat flour is heavily processed and reconstituted.
Edit: I did try making bread with an organic stone ground flour some years ago though and that didn't help.
Here is fun experiment - try her tolerance towards the simplest no knead bread made at home with long cold proofing. Like 48-72 hours. Or good proper artisanal sourdough - if she can tolerate them better you have a good piece of the puzzle.
And pasta gluten is quite different anyway from the bread one. It is made from durum wheat which is very hard and I think its gluten lacked the elasticity of the bread one.
Does she likes eats a lot fermented foods - like sourkraut and real yogurt? They have been shown to help with stomach microbiome.
Sometimes, might be time to investigate these to, thanks
Edit: on the sourdough front there is some strange results, I tried an artisanal organic sourdough from a bakery that takes their bread very seriously, and she reacts to that (however, I really like it, so a bit of a bonus for me there :-) ), strangely there is a rye sourdough she gets from the supermarket and she can eat that fine. Its a puzzling set of reactions. Howvever, the good news is its not gluten its something else that can be isolated.
Some have drawn a correlation between the use of organophosphates (one infamous compound in particular) and the rising incidence of celiac and gluten intolerance diagnosis in the USA. It may be something to look into.
>As an fyi, I have stopped eating Whole grain bread due to Gluten Intolerance symptoms. However Gluten-Free bread for the most part also seems to me, Flavour-free as well! However when I have travelled to Italy/France I have had no symptoms and enjoyed pizzas, pastas and croissants with out problem. I recently picked up two products – one is La Cappicella Pasta, sold through PC which is made in Italy with Durham flour and ACE Bakery’s Non-GMO Baguette….and have had no symptoms or problems. I’ve heard it before that the preservatives and non-clumping additives etc are what can contribute to a lot of GI symptoms and I seem to be experiencing that. So pleased there are some products out there that don’t make those of us with problems like that experience pain when we eat!
https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2014/11/03/grain
https://www.nytimes.com/2015/11/01/magazine/bread-is-broken....
Here's a quote that explains what the deal is with the whole wheat bread you can buy in America:
A grain of wheat has three main components: a fibrous and nutrient-rich outer coating called the bran; the flavorful and aromatic germ, a living embryo that eventually develops into the adult plant; and a pouch of starch known as the endosperm, which makes up the bulk of the grain. Before roller mills, all three parts were mashed together when processed. As a result, flour was not the inert white powder most of us are familiar with today; it was pungent, golden and speckled, because of fragrant oils released from the living germ and bits of hardy bran. If freshly ground flour was not used within a few weeks, however, the oils turned it rancid.
Roller mills solved this problem. Their immense spinning cylinders denuded the endosperm and discarded the germ and bran, producing virtually unspoilable alabaster flour composed entirely of endosperm. It was a boon for the growing flour industry: Mills could now source wheat from all over, blend it to achieve consistency and transport it across the nation without worrying about shelf life. That newfound durability came at a huge cost, however, sacrificing much of the grain’s flavor and nutrition. In the 1940s, to compensate for these nutritional deficiencies, flour producers started fortifying white flour with iron and B vitamins, a ubiquitous practice today. The rise of roller milling and bread factories also put pressure on plant breeders to make wheat even more amenable to the new dominant technologies; whiteness, hardness and uniformity took precedence over flavor, nutrition and novelty.
Today, whole-wheat flour accounts for only 6 percent of all flour produced in the United States. And most whole-wheat products sold in supermarkets are made from roller-milled flour with the germ and bran added back in.
WTF?
Try experimenting with recipes yourself instead of just copying what's popular. I think a lot of bread recipes are designed to make good looking bread, rather than bread that's enjoyable to eat.
because that's what I like eating, not because that's what's pretty.
I really agree with you on holes in bread, do not want.
But you may find the nut bread interesting..
I can't disagree with this enough. Gimme that hard, crispy crust with a good ear. And lots of good holes.
Although, my crumb always ends up even and fairly dense. No clue what to change to open it up. (Even with 70%+ hydration).
The most likely cause of a tight (but not dense) crumb is knocking too much air out during shaping. You can try varying the ratio of bulk ferment time to proofing time and see if that helps as well.
I'm certain this is it. I worked as a baker for a few years, but I was making bagels. So my feel for dough is all based on that dough. Very different stuff.
https://www.seriouseats.com/2014/11/troubleshoot-bad-bread-m...
It happened to beer. Americans discovered the centuries-old brewing traditions of Britain and Belgium and then turned the characteristics up to 11. What you get is beer brewed with so much hop it's just not pleasant any more. And so much malt that it now has to be sipped like wine. And in the end you've just got yourself another hyper-optimised product.
Some of these hipster loaves have crusts so tough that I'm seriously concerned about my teeth. But, hey, the baker has been learning how to make that gluten network even stronger so it must be good. The holes are so large it reminds me of atomic structure of matter: more empty space than bread. I can't spread butter on air. Nor can I hold cheese with a something tougher than shoe leather.
At the end of the day there is one thing that matters: is it nice to eat? If you go to France and find a boulangerie on any street corner in the country you will find a baguette. I could tell you about what makes it a baguette---the soft French, unbleached flour; the Viennese steam oven, the cultured yeast, and so on---but none of that really matters. What matters is it tastes wonderful, it feels great, and it works well with other foods. In short, it's a joy.
Also tip for other busy bakers like myself that don’t want to keep two types of flour stocked. Keep some vital wheat gluten in the freezer and throw in a teaspoon or two with each cup of AP flour. Instant bread flour!
https://artisanbreadinfive.com/2013/10/22/the-new-artisan-br...
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/11376-no-knead-bread
Once you get it down, you can make it more fancy by adding other things.
Yeah, store bought breads are terrible with all the weird crap.
Fantastic, delicious, nutritious, satisfying, world-class bread is incredibly simple and easy to make. If your book's recipe is complex and hard to follow, throw it out. They are a poser.
Good bread doesn't last long though and has no shelf duration. But it doesn't have to because it will all be eaten quickly. Store bread is entirely about long term storage of something never intended to be stored more than a day. Given those constraints it is what it is.
All three times, I made a huge mess. The dry flour goes everywhere, the dough is very sticky and gets on my hands and spoon and the towel and plastic wrap the recipe has you using. If I could figure out how to not make a huge mess, it would be 100x more convenient to make.
https://blog.steve.fi/this_is_mostly_how_i_make_bread.html
There's only one bowl to clean afterward, and so I find it pretty simple. The pictures in that post don't really do it justice, but I've never had an inedible result, even if sometimes it doesn't look great.
http://madscientistlabs.blogspot.com/2014/06/diablo-bread-br...
But note that no-knead bread is supposed to be sticky. The high hydration is the trick to making the whole thing work, but good technique can reduce the mess to a minimum.
If you are getting inconsistent results, I strongly recommend you weigh your ingredients (especially flour) if you aren't already. There is a huge variation in how much flour is in a cup, and you can swing between delicious to disaster pretty easily. I feel that weighing of ingredients when baking is a key to consistency.
I am supposed to watch the glycemic index of food I eat so eating a small amount of dense whole wheat flat bread works for me. I also sometimes make pizza crust from riced fresh cauliflower and avoid the wheat altogether.
I really like the advice given in the article about only eating what our great grandmothers would recognize as food.
Sure, there are "sourdough" bread in the store, but they always add ordinary yeast to speed up the process, tastes nothing near the real thing.
There did open a new sourdough bakery in the city that does it correctly, however, a single loaf cost 7€.
We also tried different types of flour, at first we used ordinary flour but it didn't taste right (bad fermentation too).
Now we use whole-grain for the fermentation stages and then a mixture of stone-milled flour and a little whole-grain during the baking process. Going from ordinary to organic flour also made a difference, especially with the fermentation reaction. We have gotten a few bugs in the flour though, but it's kind of expected, especially on the stone-milled types.
I'm Australian I recently went through south America for work and was shocked at the poor quality bread products in that country. It turns out their bread has a really poor gluten quality, makes a huge diff to the mouth feel and eat-ability of the bread.
I’ve been buying Tuxford Mill porridge oats from for a few years. Going to try my hand at sourdough now!
I've looked, but even flatbread recipes I've found seem to include yeast - is there such a thing as bread without yeast?
Part of the reason it's hard to use chemical leaveners in breads is that they only provide so much lift. A yeasted bread can go through multiple proofings and risings.
"I've recently come across a fringe fermentation method that, unlike the breads and brews and yogurts and pickles and misos we know and love, isn't run by the usual benign microbes. The engine behind this fermentation method is Clostridium perfringens, a close relative of bacteria that cause botulism, tetanus, and food poisoning. It can eat flesh. It gives gas gangrene its name by causing putrefying flesh wounds that bubble and foam with flammable hydrogen. And it can make something surprisingly delicate and tasty."
https://www.popsci.com/article/science/clostridium-it-can-ki...
Who are these people? I would be hungry again within ten minutes. (BMI of ~19)
Wrt. bread making - from my short summer stint at a bakery in a remote village in USSR back then (these days you'd call it a craftsman/artisanal given what and how it was done there) - good bread takes less sugar and more time to rise like 12 hours. Industrial quickrise - 2 hours with a lot of added sugar - is in my view one of the major factors behind the current onslaught of GI, diabetes and autoimmunes.
Somebody should make good bread that's pre-sliced into several chunks, with sheets of (e.g.) wax paper dividing them. Each loaf could also include a small resealable bag, so you always have a convenient container for the current non-frozen chunk.
What sanctimony! For my part, I recently discovered Trader Joe’s Canadian White bread. Such a revelation after being subjected to modern bread filling with random seeds and whatnot. Seeds are for birds!