Also from my experience the performance problems are completely divorced from ORM/not ORM. Usually the reason why you drop the ORM is that you want to take advantage of features that are not modeled by the ORM. Most query optimizations simply involve trying to do everything in as big of a batch as possible. Whether you do batching with or without the ORM isn't really relevant. The reason why people don't batch their queries when they use ORMs is because it's so trivial to not do so but there is no reason why we can't build better ORMs that make batched queries as easy to use as non batched queries which would get us both performance and convenience at the same time.
And if it is not acceptable, you can still optimize the living excrements out of your GraphQL resolvers.
Also, the burden of doing more than one round trip usually moves to the client. So there's always some trade-off to be made.