There are a number of measures, availability being one, where our modern food production system shines but on a quality measure it really falls flat against many times throughout history. The caveat there is obviously "history" is gigantic and runs the gamut from poor slaves eating gruel and starving to a patrician in Rome during its height or to a hunter gatherer in a food rich environment.
All that to say, I don't think this comparison is so simple, it is incredibly nuanced.