What Gets to Be a 'Burger'? States Restrict Labels on Plant-Based Meat
npr.org
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People have been calling it a "veggie burger" for decades now.
Saying it can't be a burger is ridiculous -- it's a kind of burger.
But, I fully support packaging requiring word(s) beforehand in an equal-sized font -- "burger" reserved for beef, while "black bean burger" and "veggie burger" and "quinoa burger" are all fine.
What's bizarre is that beef burger makers see this as a threat worth addressing... like, nobody's accidentally buying veggie burgers.
I think that's exactly what they're worried about, though. There wasn't much chance of confusion before, so it wasn't a big priority. Now that vegetable alternatives like the Impossible "patty" are becoming indistinguishable from beef, they're more concerned. If McDonald's or some other giant purveyor of beef could switch and save money, they would. They're rightly worried about a loss of market as the meat alternatives get better at mocking the real thing.
I've tried them all, including the newest versions, and they're still not even close. They're fine, but still completely different... kind of like how soy milk is fine but certainly doesn't taste anything like cow milk. And I'm certainly not a supertaster or anything...
I'm personally of the opinion we'll have self-driving cars long before we come up with a non-meat burger that is actually as satisfying, in the same ways, as a beef one.
At least for McD's, for example, it's 100% beef and salt, no fillers or flavor science needed, just browning reactions from a hot griddle. The quality bar is actually pretty high for, say, a quarter pounder, and the flavor of the sandwich is predominantly the beef itself -- flavors like American cheese, raw onion, ketchup and bread are quite weak in comparison.
Taco Bell is a little different -- it's about 10% seasoning and 90% beef because that's what taco meat is supposed to be, but again the browned beef is the primary flavor component of the taco -- no amount of cumin will make up for it.
I'm not sure where people get the idea that fast food beef is somehow tasteless, low-quality, or engineered in any way that, say, home hamburgers aren't. It seems like it's just this urban myth that perpetuates itself because it's fun to believe.
"What type of burger do you want: Beef or bean?" is the opposite of that. But nothing that can't be fixed with some cultural manipulation from up top.
That's a direct threat. Meat producers are probably imagining something like 10% beef / 90% artificial meat filler burgers being the norm for cheap ground beef.
So it won't be long before plant-based protein is cheaper than beef. It's not "undercutting" so much as the fact it's cheaper to produce.
If they force the sellers of veggie burgers to come up with, and popularize, another term, they cost those guys a little money. There's no principle involved here.
But veggie burgers have been around for 20 years and nobody has been "fooled" into thinking they are beef. The word burger doesn't mean "cow".
The purpose of these laws is transparent, and it's not "consumer protection".
But to say the word "nugget" is restricted to only chicken products is just anti-competitive.
It's ironic turtles all the way down. ;)
Honestly I don't see this regulation as a bad thing. Having to use some different text on your label costs approximately nothing since you have to have a label of some sort so it's not really burdensome. Stores sell margarine beside the butter. I don't see why they wouldn't sell the beef approximation beside the beef. I'm not the target customer though. I won't be buying this stuff until it's so cheap that they start cutting 80/20 beef with it.
[0] per TFA, Europe has very similar laws about food labeling.
Edit: You people have no sense of humor.
RE: burdensomeness of the regulation, another commenter already pointed out the historical usage of the language we're talking about banning. Imagine you spent the last twenty years building your brand around the term "veggie burger." I suspect you would find it burdensome if you suddenly had to change that.
Long term, I think we animal-eaters are on the wrong side of history. Providing humans survive the climate crisis and collapse of civilization, maybe a couple of hundred years from now the people will look back at us and wonder how we could consider ourselves civilized while killing and eating animals. A bit like Roman gladiator fights. It will seem very shocking to them.
The alternatives, lab-grown meat and whatnot, will be the norm and only psychopaths would kill and eat animals. With that in mind, if these products start to distance themselves from real (killed-animal) meat now then they are getting a head start on marketing. They won't have to remind people later that they were the good guys all along.
For meat on the other hand, you can lock your cow or pig or chicken in a cage exactly the size of its body with no stimulation except the food being shoved down it's throat, it'll get fat and you can sell if for meat. There is no downside to mistreatment.
It doesn't matter. Customers call it nut milk. Recipes call it that. Restaurant menus as well.
It will be the same with burgers. It doesn't matter, and it's just a waste of time and resources.
When Napster came out with an alternative to the CD, the industry mocked it, then attacked it, but never tried to learn from it. As a result, GAFAM arrived and took the whole market.
When youtube came out, TV did the same. As a result, the Valley arrived an took the whole market.
The meat industry is doing the same with vege alternatives. They first mocked it. Now they are in the fighting phase. But these products are already as tasty as the average meat (not speaking of high end steaks, but that's not what people eats every week). The difference is that IF and BB can provide consistent quality across the entire production. And since it's made from plants, it will scale way better than real meat, from sourcing to production, so it will get cheaper. Because of the green trend we currently got, not to mention the ethics surrounding the topic, it will be an easy way to get a guilty pleasure while feeling you are doing the right thing.
I understand why Gates has invested in it.
So you would like corporate interests to just say whatever they want about the contents just because you THINK it might be better for OTHER people to not know what they are eating?
We should not thrive to protect those people from their own stupidity. We are short in resources, I'd rather see those invested in schools to provide education to their children.
Nut milk can be made at home, so can peanut butter.
This is highly processed fake food thats designed to trick you into thinking it "feels" like meat. A process that is not designed to make it actually healthier for you in all the processing.
This is the English language so yes there is nuance in how we use it.
It's important to me that we not start to label industrial food pastes as X when they are still just industrial food pastes.
What's the "veggie" in "veggie burger"? It's not ground chickpeas anymore, don't conflate the two very different things.
If you want to have a conversation about factory farming and animal cruelty, I'd imagine we'd agree on a lot.
Not meat - burger.
Nobody is being fooled by the "veggie burger" containing animals. Nobody. It's a non-issue.
But I need a repro, so I went back a week later. That’s when I saw the sign saying, “Meat. Made from plants. <cutesy blurb>”. Vegetarian Me says “yea!”. Truth-in-advertising Me says, “meh, I’m not sure I’m comfortable with that”. OTOH, I knew full what they mean.
Oh, and Fatburger didn’t make a mistake the first time. Impossible Burger is just that good.
But most burger chains serve their burgers with an array of toppings, sauces, condiments, and other things that make it nearly impossible to taste the actual patty. There are so many layers that all the burger itself provides is a bit of chewy texture. The texture of an Impossible Burger doesn't have quite the same mouthfeel as one made out of cow, but if you're not expressly looking for it, you'd easily miss it. If they accidentally substituted it for a meat burger, I'd wager well over 80% of the patrons wouldn't notice.
Our supplier of impossible meat gave us bratwursten last time to try and yeah, I would say you will have a very hard time doing blind test between those and the real thing. They are not only simply very good: they are absolutely convincing next to the real thing.
Again, for me they do not need to be but I think our meat consumption is unsustainable and far worse (for me), animal torture, so if this can help others eat /less/ meat, it is good.
Disclaimer; I know most people just do not have the financial room to do this; it is all very expensive (at least here). Nice vegetarian cooking (I do not know if this goes for vegan as well or not) can be done very cheap if you have some time to shop and prepare.
But all these ‘plant based meats’, at least here in the EU, are very expensive. 12 hamburgers from the freezer which are meat (well, some kind of very cheap waste meat) at E4,- vs 10 impossible meat v2 burgers at E33,- it will make no sense for most. But I guess this will change with volume; I hope so anyway.
I don't expect to eliminate animals from people's diet, but I have hopes that eventually we'll be able to break the assumption that meat is somehow necessary at every meal. Just breaking that assumption would enable people to consider a wider range of possibilities, and encourage more places to support those who don't want to eat meat.
Other burger-centric restaurants also tend to be pretty good at cooking Impossibles, except Umami Burger, which is very bad at it.
For us it does not have to taste like meat at all; we eat different beans, lentils, veggie dishes most of the time, but if we want friends over, we have to serve ‘meat’ so this is a good way of doing that. Or pizza, but after having perfected my woodoven chops over the past 2 years, I need to lay off the pizza for a little bit...
No one needs to be tricked to eat these delicious plant-based proteins.
"Burger" isn't as specific. Culturally, people accept that the term "burger" can be modified by other words like "Pork" or "Black Bean" to imply "a patty of <product> meant to be used in the ways you would use a patty".
This isn't about protecting consumers from being tricked. It's about making it harder to communicate what a product is for producers.
Call it a "Vurger".
Let lazy phoneme substitution take care of the rest.
For cheese I can understand, but pork is pork. How can you call a non-pig product pork?
You're just attempting to replicate the sensory experience. Sweetness, texture, moisture, etc. As in, say, beef vs pork barbecue. Beef vs pork steak.
Jackfruit probably mimics pork better than beef - not all substitutions are equivalent.
The same way meats intended for burgers are described -- patties.
That's right, you can buy "Beef Patties" right now.
A lot of traditionally foreign foods that have been Americanized are not their authentic version either. For example I’m pretty sure california sushi is not “real” sushi. Such is culture and language. It is not static.
Why is it suddenly ok/desirable to let corporate interests randomly assign words to highly processed* foods?
Today you think its a great thing that these magic mystery pastes can lie to other people about their contents? Those other people are dumb so it's OK to lie to them about the contents of their burgers?
Tomorrow? Oh we let words not have meaning because we wanted people to eat more plants....now the word chickpeas can mean anything because... oooops.
Create unique product names that aren't lies. Let people seek them out because they taste good and they are better for them.
* I've worked hard to get rid of highly processed food and I'm highly skeptical of adding back these highly processed industrial pastes that vegetarian startups are pushing.
Using phrases like that might pander to a certain crowd, but it doesn't help your argument. Personally, I'm less likely to trust someone who uses phrases like that because they lack nuance and signal that they're not really here for a constructive discussion.
Are these not highly processed foods?
Is it difficult for you to accept that because you want others to not eat meat?
Is a McDonalds hamburger not?
Do you think we should eat and promote highly processed foods?
"""I also object to Taco Bell being able to call their products even "meat" to be quite honest, I think we should change that."""
McDonalds is allowed to call their extremely processed foods "burgers". The contents of their "burger" and the contents of 80/20 beef-only patties marketed as "burger patties" at the store are not the same.
The point is, "burger" doesn't mean what you're trying to imply it means. It's a loose term for a type of sandwich at best. Saying patties intended to be used for "burgers" can't be marketed as "burgers" is equivalent to saying that "sandwiches" made with <ingredient of your choice> aren't really "sandwiches" because they don't contain the contents that the Earle of Sandwich included in his concoction hundreds of years ago.
I think its a travesty that McDonald and Taco Bell are allowed to do what they do to hamburger and are still allowed to sell it at all. Full Stop.
The "Veggie" in "Veggie Burger" is a highly processed industrial food paste that has nothing to do with chopping up some chickpeas and garlic and eating it on flatbread.
Look at the ingredient lists and read up on all the steps the make to fool you into thinking it has the mouth feel, tast etc of meat.
None of those steps are about making the base ingredients healthier for you. They leech nutrients/phytonutrients/fiber at every manipulation.
Grinding peanuts and making peanut butter? Hey that's ok with me.
This is making terrible food paste and using virtue signalling to market it.
> Please don't use uppercase for emphasis. If you want to emphasize a word or phrase, put asterisks around it and it will get italicized.
What about “peanut butter”?
First I'd say its in long use and common understanding.
Second you can make both of them at home.
Third I'm really broadly objecting to highly processed food pastes being labeled as "burger" or X. I also object to Taco Bell being able to call their products even "meat" to be quite honest, I think we should change that.
Margarine =/= butter. These are words with very specific meanings that everyone has agreed on.
Burger =/= beef. "Burger" is, generally, a style of sandwich. "Turkey Burger" is fine. "Pork burger" is fine. The assumption is that, unmodified, it means that it contains beef. However, everyone in the US understand that a "black bean burger" doesn't contain beef and instead contains black beans.
Both sides of this fight are just "corporate interests randomly assigning words to foods". The beef industry wants "purity" and the veggie industry wants "common sense". Let's not pretend this is actually about the consumer being protected, because isn't. It's about how to market products.
"Veggie" in "Veggie Burger" is what exactly? Tell us in detail please.
I take the onions, peppers and garlic and go put them in a food processors to chop them (oh god, the processing!) to approximately fine dice because I'm usually making them in bulk and don't feel like cutting by hand. If you prefer a thicker cut to the veggies, go ahead and cut with a knife.
I then take that out, and put half of the black beans into the food processor (ahh, terror, horror!) until they reach a paste consistency. I mix the other veggies, spices and remaining black beans into this. I then eggs to bind and bread crumbs as needed to get it to hold shape. If I take it too far, I'll add some olive oil to loosen things up.
These aren't super great on a grill, and I prefer to pan sear or cook them on a griddle (which I find to be the best to get some really great maillard reactions going on for flavor) and top with a slice of cheese and arugula and put it on a bun.
My point is, "burger" is a style preparation, not a specific thing. "Soup" "Sandwich" "Taco" "Breakfast". These are vague shapes, not specific D.S.O.P terms. So is "burger", at least in the US currently.
I'm a former chef my dude. I'm invested and have a lot of opinions on food. You want to fight on the behalf of the beef lobby, that's fine. But this is all about protecting corporate interests from other competing corporate interests. This isn't about protecting consumers. It's Bad Actors fighting Bad Actors.
Don't even get me started on that "organic" nonsense...
So you know all this work we do to remove processed foods by making it at home right?
Do you think this is what is in these industrial pastes at the store? In a box on the freezer isle?
Taco Bell is allowed to call their product meat and thats NOT ok with me.
Vegetarians jumping on the corporate lying train with Taco Bell is a terrible terrible idea.