See https://www.ghacks.net/2019/06/14/chrome-76-blocks-sites-fro...

It also detects any Safari instance (private or not) on iOS and iPadOS 13 as “private mode” erroneously, likely due to some new privacy features being enabled.

Just add a site exception to turn off Javascript.

Doesn't get around all tracking, but it lets you view the article.

If you're on desktop you can use eww (emacs)