Some time around the point when our society grew large and mobile enough that relying on personal experience and word of mouth wasn't enough, because a sufficient number of people ate in areas to which they wouldn't return any time soon.
More likely, something else useless to take its place.
We need a rough idea of what's there, some photos of the place and food tell a lot of the story. And prices.
Maybe some 'editors choice' for the one's that stand out.
A 'guide book' made by a small, decent team is as legit as any public review system, probably more so.
20 reviewers x4 restos a day (most are little brasseries, don't need tons of time) is 80 / day, 800 in 10 days only.
It would only take maybe 4-5 people to do it ongoing, once most were established.
If some reviewer smashes a restaurant because the food is too spicy it makes it of no value.