For many of the tasks you'd want high bandwidth for, you probably want WiFi (or even point-to-point WiFi established over Bluetooth LE like AirDrop). LE is a huge step forward because it distinguishes between the two major use cases (low bandwidth - low power - promiscuous mode vs. high-bandwidth - paired) and allows for the development of standards which meet each use case without compromise. Part of why Bluetooth was pretty garbage before is that its use cases overlapped so heavily with WiFi, but it wasn't allowed to (or ever going to) replace it. This lead to this weird hybrid high-power, middling bandwidth, paired but you-probably-dont-want-it-to-be spec.
LE 2 (Bluetooth 5) addresses some of your concerns by increasing the bandwidth available for LE devices, without compromising on power efficiency.
The Tesla Model 3 uses traditional Bluetooth for phone calls and streaming but the Phone as a Key functionality is BLE. When you walk up to the car and try to open it and the car says FU then BLE isn't working.
When your Xiaomi Mi Band smartwatch hasn't buzzed all day but you pull your smartphone out of your pocket and have 8 missed calls, 100 messages, and 500 emails then BLE isn't working.
When you're at a Tech Conference and the Conference App uses BLE Beacons to help navigate you indoors and it can't determine your location then BLE isn't working.
"Hey let's make everybody use the unregulated band for a basic function so that we make our phones thinner and we can sell more expensive accessories, how about that"
Bluetooth can be good but there are just too many devices which are 'bluetooth compatible' in theory but have many odd incompatibilities. Perhaps it is the complexity of the spec that causes this to happen to bluetooth, rather than wifi...
I've literally never had any problems connecting any of these to any devices (desktop PC, iPads, iPhones).
Bluetooth also seems to work pretty much perfectly with my car as well.
I'm not doubting you have problems - but interesting to note that for some people Bluetooth does actually seem to work.
I still don't know how to unpair on some black boxes. My partner has a speaker, and I think auto-pairing occurs if used previously, so we have a strange ritual of turning off bluetooth on other devices until it seems to correct itself when wanting to use it.
I've always assumed this was a UI issue.
I've had phones that have presented themselves as a pointing device to a computer. Some as modems. Some that have transferred/pushed files okay on some OSs, not others. I have no idea what's going on with Bluetooth most of the time, and it's quite infuriating. On Linux Blueman doesn't give much away. On a Windows PC I have, using Bluetooth kills WIFI, and requires a reboot to fix.
From a mobile perspective if I say try and transfer a file from a phone, it can turn Bluetooth on, fail and then leave it on.
Wireless headphones sound like a great idea though! But again not sure which protocols are being used. Again that's a UI issue, I've a streaming speaker - and have no idea about the stream quality of what I'm listening to. Oh for some simple feedback diagnostics.
Mind you - I never 'unpair' a device - I just set the BT device to be in pairing mode (or whatever it is called) and then connect from my phone/tablet and that removes the previous connection. Having to do this on both devices and that the step necessary to initiate pairing is device specific is the only issue I have with BT - but it's a relatively minor one.
Linux though is a complete disaster: when I turn the headphones on I _always_ have to manually disconnect them and reconnect. Even so, from time to time they stick to the audio only profile and there is not way to use the embedded microphone unless I disconnect them, turn them off, turn them on and repeat the incantation.
You can't charge and listen at the same time (wtf)
I get no warning when the battery is about to die (combined with the above this really sucks, they shut off in the middle of something)
I dual boot OSX and Windows on my laptop and I have to re-pair the headphones every time I switch OSes. I suspect each OS has a different encryption key, but the headphones can't tell the difference between which OS is running.
They cut out and skip all the time when walking through the City. They are borderline unusable when walking between the train station and my office.
They cut out and skip occasionally when not walking through the City, for no discernable reason.
They have an obnoxious and unnecessary blue LED that blinks periodically when they are turned on. This lights up our whole bedroom at night and annoys the crap out of my wife. I have to keep a piece of black electrical tape over the LED.
These are the best bluetooth headphones I have ever owned, they sound great, and I absolutely hate them.
These were an inexpensive model, but were nonetheless very well-reviewed on many tech sites, and often recommended as one of the top budget options.
I use mine when I commute by train into Edinburgh and they really haven't given me any problems - I didn't even know they had a blue LED until I checked there... :-)
Battery life is good enough for my purposes - but I do make a point of keeping them charged up as I live in fear of a commute without an audiobook! They certainly don't cut out for me.
Your suspicion is correct.
The real problem is that Apple and Microsoft both have not provided any way to specify the key to connect with, and they both paired independently, creating a different key each time.
One solution would be to find where the link key was stored in one of the OSs and copy it over to the other OS. Then they would both use the same link key and you are good to go until you re-pair for some reason. I don't know if this (still) works, but some instructions are here:
https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/268837-dual-boot-bluetooth-pairing-solved/
A different solution could be that the Bluetooth adaptor usually has a way to store the link key within the device in NVRAM. The technicality of that is that the adaptor does never ask the OS for the link key, it just connects. I don't know if tools exist in OSX or Windows to do that, however.For example, I have a microsoft bluetooth mouse that is utterly painless & two AA batteries last for something like a year working full time. Also have a pair of Jabra 65t, pairing is annoying and on rare occasions it hiccups, but 97% of the time they are excellent. I had owned BT mice & headphones previously, and they have never been better than today.
For example, a lot of re-pairing issues come about from the device resetting its own device ID. Some rare devices do this on every soft-power-cycle. A good many devices do it on recovering from power-failure (e.g. dead battery). At that point, the device is basically a completely different "device". The best devices keep their device ID in non-volatile memory so they can recover from power failure without resetting their device ID.
Having built a few BT devices as a hobbyist, it's not really that hard to make a good pairing experience. You just have to... think things through and not do the most bare minimum work.
Perhaps BT would be better with certification.
I stress "from minor to major"; in my experience BT does ultimately work, but there are always minor, odd, kinks like (I assume) an Android update preventing my headhphones to establish a "media" connection 50%+ of the time.
Given that also my high-end devices are subject to problems (eg. ~400$ mobile phone with ~400$ headphones), then the specification may be technically correct but practically unusable.
To me, "practically unusable" == "broken".
Their wireless audio protocol is bad and they should feel bad.