Honest question: why do so many design/HCI/typography experts have unreadable/unusable websites of their own? I don't doubt what you're saying, but damn.
Forgetting that properly good design is both usable and also doesn’t look like a dog’s dinner.
Because they are not only aware of what is ideal, they are aware of the effort-payoff balance involved in doing it right.
The ones that have a secure brand and are sharing knowledge for free (as opposed to the ones using their website to build/establish a personal brand) don't have a lot of incentive to invest heavily.
Handcoding HTML is a lot more effort than picking up one of the many canned tools that you configure some settings and throw text at and it produces a blog.
I like the minimalism, I don't mind the ugly, but the minuscule font size is just awful.