Look at the simplicity of articles on The New Yorker, for example, which are very long but very readable because there's very little cruft to distract you and the design is so simple. My experience there is almost interchangeable with a "reader view" of the page, a feature that by its very existence should communicate that the modern web has lost its way in thinking about these things.
It's not that every site needs to be minimalist, but if you're writing essays or text of substance, caring about this kind of stuff goes a long way. "Engagement" is not just how long I stick around but the mental investment I put into what's there, and when it comes to writing, less design is often more.