I do find that companies seem to know how to evaluate young programmers: just test them on their knowledge of your tech stack. Any young coder who is good and is working in that stack will know the basics. The bad ones won't.
For older coders, I'm not sure that same signal works. I've forgotten more frameworks than most coders will ever learn. I mostly don't care about programming languages, they're roughly the same and I can learn a new one in a couple weeks.
I know technologies like Rails and SQL, but I don't play with the new toys as much as I used to, becuase lately I would rather solve a new problem or build a new tool than learn a new tool.
But how do you evaluate a coder on their ability to solve problems? Much harder.
Even more difficult, how do you get a 24 year old coder who only knows react and FireBase to evaluate a 37 year old coder who has built web frameworks from scratch?
It's another world, and a lot of companies just don't bother.
Thankfully I have no desire to work at any of those companies. I solve problems. If a company can't hire for that I don't belong there. There are plenty of companies trying to hire people to solve actual problems, not just put coder butts in seats.