Panasonic developing two full-frame mirrorless cameras with Leica L-mount
dpreview.com
dpreview.com
My video kit is a GH4, GH3, and G7 for live or recorded-to-external events, so I am plenty deep in hock to Panasonic. But I did not expect that they would have a way to get even more of my money. I've been considering a Sony full-frame as a photo camera with some backup video usage but Panasonic has so much goodwill with me that I will probably hold off until I can play with an S1 or S1R and make a decision.
I don't get excited about cameras much anymore, but...dang.
For example, the Panasonic 42.5mm f/1.7 lens is visually equivalent to a hypothetical 85mm f/3.4 lens on a full frame (35mm) sensor. When I say equivalent, I mean these combinations would have the same practical field of view, the same depth of field, and—this is the part which trips people up—the same overall quantity of photons falling on the sensor area.
Historically, larger sensors have been more efficient at converting said photons into data, but the difference has narrowed greatly to the point where it doesn't matter so much, particularly at the relatively modest resolution of 4K video (approximately 8.3—8.9 megapixels) where the limits of lens diffraction don't tend to come into play.
Of course on full frame systems you can easily find inexpensive 85mm f/1.8 and very high quality f/1.4 lenses. But if you don't use the extra depth of field and you shoot FF at f/3.4 or greater, there was no fundamental benefit. (Of course you should never discount the glass advantage, as the mid-range FF glass tends to be optically superior to high-end MFT glass... but does that benefit apply to a new lens mount? Will these cameras do a good job focusing EF and/or F mount glass?)
You are correct, except I don't like the way you said it. I think it is more accurate to say that full frame has lower noise levels because they tend to be able to achieve the equivalent of lower ISO.
In order to get equivalent ISO, you need to multiply it by the crop factor squared. (Squared because the sensor area is two dimensions.) So for MFT 2x crop factor, that means 4x. Which means a MFT sensor at 800 ISO has the same theoretical noise level across the frame as a FF sensor at 200 ISO.
This is another area where the way we describe crop factor does a huge disservice to practical application. By pretending that smaller sensors are just cropped versions of larger sensors, we have to do a pile of stupid math in order to find equivalence. And it causes no end of pointless internet arguments.
https://petapixel.com/2017/03/29/dispelling-myths-around-dep...
25MP (or any resolution) full frame sensor with a (say) 1.8 lens will gather more photos than 10MP (or any resolution) APC sensor with a 1.8 lens.
Noise only matters in the context of output. If you’re printing—again just an example—a full magazine spread, the noise level in the final result isn’t fundamentally affected by whether the sensor was 30 or 50 megapixels; FF or MFT. Either way it is ultimately scaled to the print size and print resolution. Nobody except the photographer cares what the noise looked like at 100% pixel zoom. All that matters is the relative appearance of noise in the final product.
Thinking about the individual pixels of a sensor is tempting but causes an unfortunate chain of erroneous assumptions.
It is true that (a) larger sensors have had an historical efficiency advantage, but it's progressively diminishing, and (b) larger sensors tend to be capable of lower area-equivalent ISOs. If you could build an MFT sensor capable of ISO 25, and used comparable glass, the full frame advantage would be eliminated.
For example the Canon 5DS full-frame has the same pixel size as the 7D2 cropper and very similar noise and ISO limits. The 5D4 full-frame has much lower noise but also 20MP less.
However, we should be comparing images at the same size, rather than at 100% pixel crops. If you print the high resolution 5Ds images in the same size as the 5D4's, the noise will be finer and less distracting. You can also denoise and downsample the image to the same number of megapixels as the 5D4's and get a similar amount of noise per pixel.
In this sense, a high resolution sensor with smaller pixels is always better because you get the freedom to have finer detail in bright light and still get clean images at lower resolution in dim light.
In effect a GH4 with a Metabones EF speed booster attached is effectively comparable to an EF camera with an APS-H size sensor (1.3x crop factor).
You get a camera that does everything your GH4 does, but a lot better. The only thing it misses out on compared to the GH5 is sensor stabilisation, which your GH4 doesn't have anyway.
You get the full benefit of all your existing glass. In fact you get more benefit because the effective crop factor of the GH4 in 4K is 2.3, whereas on the GH5S with the multi-aspect sensor it's between 1.8 and 2. It's a bigger sensor both physically and logically.
Whereas a full frame Pana means an expensive body and a new glass collection, with barely any advantage over a GH4/GH5/GH5S with a speed booster.
My current glass is literally all tailored for video stuff--a bunch of those MFT 14-140 lenses, which I love for video but are nothing special for photography--so that isn't really a big concern for me right now. Also, I do like a good autofocus that I can then tweak; I haven't used a speed booster, but Metabones's own website suggests that it's not great.
A Panasonic full frame camera is interesting in the context of video. But for stills, I'm not sure I'd want to invest in an unproven system that has one of the most obscure lens mounts in the industry. Even if it can be adapted, autofocus performance is unlikely to be good—just look at the Sony cameras for evidence there.
I wish Sigma and Tamron would release their EF- and F-mount full frame lenses with Sony E-Mount and native autofocus performance. Or at least provide a first-party mount adapter that achieves the same.
I personally think most of these full-frame cameras are overly pricey, especially for the marginal gains over APS-C-sized cameras, but someone must be buying them.
With the A73 and a nice prime lens, I can go all the way to ISO 6400 with perfectly acceptable noise levels, and thanks to the great dynamic range, bring the shadows up further at my computer. It allows me to capture certain scenes that would be hard to get a "keeper" from at all on a crop.
For well-lit outdoor photography, including sports & wildlife, I agree that the gains over a high-end APS-C are marginal. Even for portraits, the bokeh on a full-frame is going to be better, but it'd probably be fair to call it marginally better.
I didn't want to use flash at family gatherings because 1) I didn't want the disruption of flash spill in people's eyes 2) the aesthetics of hard flash shadow.
Now I use bounce-flash close onto a wall and a half-snoot made from $1 artshop foam + elastic hair band, at base ISO.
If they're too dark I'll make tifs across a range of EV and blend with https://wiki.panotools.org/Enfuse
Ergonomically speaking my m4/3ds camera is just too convenient for traveling and hiking and such to ever seriously consider a full frame option solely because of lens size differences: small lenses that perform pretty decently are the bee's knees, especially if you're lucky enough to have one of the models with a huge and decent viewfinder. Not interesting if massively increasing the size and weight I'd be carrying for full frame images.
Also the sensor resolution trick only works on stationary subjects, so probably a no-go for sports photographers.
But I'd love to hear otherwise, as m43 seems a lot more appealing to me, considering cost, weight and size.
I'm currently shooting an Olympus OMD EM5ii (standard-sized body) and a PEN EP5 (smaller rangefinder-sized body). I primarily use the 12-40mm f2.8 Pro lens on the big body and either the 17mm f1.8 or 25mm f1.8 on the small body.
All three lenses will produce pleasing bokeh. Sometimes, I have to run them wide-open to do so. But, at laptop-screen size, any CA or distortion isn't noticeable to the people looking at my photos (family and friends).
Anyway, for me, m4/3 hit the sweet spot of price, size, and photo quality. I used to shoot a Canon DSLR (older Rebel crop-senor) and it was just too bulky to haul around on active vacations. I stopped carrying it, preferring a compact Canon S90. But, it wasn't flexible enough, especially indoors. So, I moved to an Olympus PEN EPL7 to try out m4/3. Loved the size of the complete kit, and traded it for the EM5ii after a year of use. Added the EP5 a bit later just to have a second body on hand (was used and cheap, so I'll carry it places I won't take the more expensive EM5ii).
They are getting squeezed out from below by phone cameras. As they get better, you think, "I could have just used my phone" at times. You can't get a shallow depth of field in as many conditions as a larger sensor. (It isn't impossible, you can get it with some lenses wide open.)
Fuji is doing well with their crop sensors as a good trade-off between size and sensor size. I would look at the new xt3 if I was starting from scratch. They have a nice lens line up.
I used to shoot Nikon, but I wasn't taking my camera with me, so I sold it and went m43. But I do miss the look of the portraits I used to get with full frame. So the new Z series is tempting if somewhat irrational. There you're buying the future, or using old glass with an adaptor.