As I understand it, when the Germans occupied Paris, they saw it as a key prize and were keen to keep its culture alive, at least superficially. There was a fair amount of prestige in sending home something refined. Imagine--if the city lost its luster, the perfume and garments the soldiers sent home to their sweethearts wouldn't seem quite so special! The fashion industry continued to operate, with styles changing seasonally, another thing besides regional differences for the SOE to contend with. Only a spy would sport last month's hairstyle!

It also meant an opportunity for Section F members operating in France. At home in Britain, clothing was rationed, but as recounted in "Carve Her Name With Pride" (about Violette Szabo), "Out shopping by herself the next day, she went to Molyneux, the famous couturier in the Rue Royale, which, despite the German occupation, was still carrying on.... Here she bought, as her bill dated April 28th, 1944, shows, three dresses and one very attractive jersey. The bill, made out to Mademoiselle C. Leroy, states that one of the dresses was of black crêpe de chine--it was draped with a lace neckline and cost 8500 francs.... Another of the dresses is set down as 'en écossais': it was a red plaid dress. The third was of silk print. The jersey, described as a golf jersey, was yellow in colour. The total bill, with a purchase tax of 11 per cent, a municipal tax, and a 'Taxe au profit du secours national' of 5 per cent, came in all to over £200."

It's strange to think that between blowing up bridges (probably not literally in the case of spies in the city), the agents could go on a shopping spree in Paris's posher establishments.