https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAid5G30-WM
LM is conductive, so you need to be much more careful with the application, as over-application will kill the chip. It also can migrate over time, especially if you put a bit too much on, and is particularly unsuitable for laptops that are going to be moved around a lot.
Putting LM on a laptop is a gimmick, and one with fairly considerable risk to the hardware, not something that is suitable for mass production.
I recently re-applied thermal paste (an old Arctic MX-2 I had lying around) on a late 2013 MacBook Pro which has bare-die CPU and GPU. The first time I did it, I applied too much paste and it had an observable negative effect on thermal dissipation. Once I applied the correct amount, I got slightly better results than stock paste.
The effect on thermals are absolutely not insignificant. Thermal pastes are actually extremely bad at transferring heat and too much of it really has negative effects.
Yes, it is safer to put too much than too little. Using too much the worst case is just that the CPU throttles and performance is sluggish and that rarely leads to an RMA.
From https://www.ekwb.com/blog/thermal-compound-guide/
For example, the thermal conductivity of a high-grade thermal paste is 8.5 W/mK, and the heat conductivity of copper is 385 W/mK, or for aluminum 205 W/mK. You can see that the thermal compound is actually a poor heat conductor and that is exactly the reason why you only need a very thin layer of paste to fill the micro imperfections between the IHS and heatsink.
This has always been my rule of thumb whether it's metallic or non-metallic paste. I throw on a pair of vinyl gloves, squirt a dab on the heatsink (not the CPU), and spread an even layer with my finger. I go back and fill in low spots with a smaller dab, trying for an even surface. This way, it's thin enough that it doesn't squirt out the sides when it's installed, but it's a uniform spread that covers any gaps between the heatsink and the CPU surface. Also, by putting it on the heatsink instead of the CPU, I don't risk accidentally getting paste on the non-contact parts of the CPU.
I've also used the semi-solid thermal pads similar to what comes from the factory on most OEM heatsinks, but they are far less efficient than paste.
Page 4, http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_met...
anyone ever friction soldered a heatsink to an IHS ?
Edit: selling custom IHS integrated heatsinks with LM applied and nail polished is a small and probably fairly inconsistent business to invest in buying a well binned 3790k kit, very few people would upgrade till an 8700k which showed significant gains worthy of an upgrade you would run dry for a few years especially the premium you would ask for such a service people would use these things for a long long long time i know people who are still using i5 2600k just because majority games are poorly multithread optimized
AMD could collaborate with EKWB would be great TR2 Liquid and Navi 96 Liquid. Intel have too much ego to collab
https://www.overclockers.com/heatsink-mounting-pressure-vs-p...
Modern chips seem to have sensors specifically detecting hotspots. E.g. with an AMD Polaris GPU, you can see "Hotspot Temperature" in HWiNFO.
So, I've repaired and cleaned many, many laptops and computers over the years. For bare die components (CPU/chipset) I use something like "half a grain of rice per finger nail area". This is already plenty. I sometimes checked after mounting, and there was always some minor squeeze-out. (For desktop CPUs I also use just half a grain of rice. The higher mounting force results in about a ~3-4 cm dia circle; this doesn't extend all the way to the corners of the IHS, but it doesn't have to, since nothing is dissipating heat there.)
> there is no real downside to an enthusiastic application of paste except for making a mess
That's not my experience.
With laptops, the pressure applied by the cold plate is not that much and thermal pastes have high viscosity. (The cold plate is often not that stiff, too, so it tends to flex). Applying too much paste results in a too thick layer of paste, which results in higher temps, hotter laptops, fans spinning faster and thus more noise and annoyance.
Indeed often I found the issue with manufacturer-applied paste was that it was simply too much. I think the reason they do this is that it's harder to get wrong and it makes the product just more annoying, not break it. If they did it properly, there would be some chance of getting it wrong, resulting in a broken product. For the same reason they're using thermal pads wherever they can get away with it: They're practically impossible to misapply.
Now, in real life, CPU, GPU and heatsink don't have the perfect, more-than-mirror finished surface. There are small gaps and small peaks that prevent a full contact. And those gaps are filled with air. Air is a bad heat conductor. So, to reduce this bad, bad air effect, you fill the gaps with thermal paste.
Thermal paste will be better than air pockets. Thermal paste will be worst than metal/metal (CPU/GPU/heatsink) contact. So, put as little as thermal paste as needed, just to fill the gaps.
But put too few paste, or don't cover everything, and you'll end up with more gaps: the paste will prevent those metal/metal peaks contacts and if not spread evenly it will leave bigger gaps.
If you can't know the ideal, it's better to have a little more paste (but covering everything) than to few or badly spread (leaving bigger gaps).
https://www.overclockers.com/heatsink-mounting-pressure-vs-p...
I'm guessing their thinking is they want to avoid air at all costs, so requiring way excessive amounts ensures it will never be lacking, which they probably think is significantly worse than excesses.
[0] the difference in thermal conductivity between an entry-level thermal grease and a high-quality one is 2x~3x (entry level is ~2W/(m.K) while top-of-the-line might reach ~8W/(m.K)). The difference between air and a low-end thermal grease is 2 orders of magnitude (~0.025 W/(m.K) versus ~2)
Former employees of Apple I know recommend reapplying the thermal paste immediately after getting a MacBook Pro.
Is this stuff electrically conductive?
> While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.
If you're using a "liquid metal" compound, you probably want to be very careful, as it is conductive.[1]
A correct answer takes context into account. In this case, "vendors that always tell to put a huge amount of thermal grease on the CPU".