I've been in the startup world as well, really didn't like all the things you listed that are so prevalent in 'start up culture'.
I've been working as a senior engineer at a large financial institution for about a year. Programmers are not seen as these people who are expected to work insane hours under tremendous pressure. But they are seen as very valuable staff: our company recently decided they were a software company first, and a financial company second.
While the problems we're solving might not be as sexy as the Hot-New-Thing (we've yet to do anything with machine learning), they're very challenging and incredibly important -- not only to the company's bottom line but also to the millions of customers using our applications.
Sure, there's years of technical debt not everyone is a talented, brilliant programmer. But we do some amazing work and the many decades of experience the organisation has in HR makes for a very enjoyable, engaging and challenging workplace.