I encounter people who can make pleasant conversation about programming all day... but literally can’t seem to actually program in practice. Do you see that? How does your interview check for that?
Some of this code-screen mistrust seems to come from the flood of poorly-qualified candidates; maybe there's a more diverse pool than before, but it comes at the cost of lots of wannabes.
For remote developers I do deviate slightly and I actually ask them to do a little coding, but that's because it's always someone in Hyderabad and the cultural differences make a deep-dive conversation with body language a lot harder to pull off. So I ask them to whip up a demo program that scores a game of Bowling, take as long as necessary, and bring the results to the interview and show me what they did. Not much but it works (and scoring a bowling game is actually not a bad test -- not as trivial as it sounds, but doesn't take a whole evening of work just for an interview).