I was skeptical about WPF at first, as I didn't like XAML at all. I'm happy I stuck with it. Under XAML is a really elegant engine that you can interface with directly (few of my WPF projects have any XAML in them at all).
I skipped UWP for the same reasons as OP, and because you can't (as far as I have been able to figure out) distribute windows services with it. Win2D looked like an answer to a lot of my design issues, but I got a sense that the team building and maintaining it was smaller than mine.
If Microsoft heavily re-invested in the desktop I would be very happy.