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Or GitLab. That's free and easy to self host.

Bingo. People think its hard to self host. Its not. They have an omnipackage that you install. You run updates. You enable the automatic backups. Problem solved!

But maintenance is where people can have issues. GitLab is complex.

Well... unless you use something like gitlab https://about.gitlab.com/ - which is also free, and has support for issues, CI, etc. (snap!)

Personally, I prefer something more lightweight and for some time I've been using gogs - https://github.com/gogits/gogs (so far so good)

Is gogs maintained anymore? Everyone I know switched to the community fork, gitea.

Wow, I haven't peeked at the commit history for some time. Thanks for the info!