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https://www.fastmail.com/

It costs $5/month if you want to use your own domain. I've pretty much stopped using Gmail, etc. and switched totally to them.

How is their calendar?

I haven't used it as much, but it seems just as good for single-person use. It's WebDAV IIRC. I haven't tried to use any "shared calendar" features.

Do you find their web interface as good as Gmail?

Yes, I do. The only thing I miss is tagging/archiving. Fastmail uses a traditional folder paradigm, and archiving only moves the message to a special archive folder.

Their login 2FA options are as good as Gmails, and I like their mail-rules better (though you have to drop into "power users" mode more than I'd like).

https://protonmail.com/ is free, open source, and encrypted.

Honestly I think the answer to your question is: giant fail by the tech community, because to my knowledge there isn’t anything actually comparable, free or paid.

Fastmail certainly is comparable.