The best way to preserve Macintosh software from floppy disks
vintageapplemac.com
vintageapplemac.com
I was able to get a lot of disk images from disks that were failing to read fully on ANY of the drives, but were failing in different sectors.
SheepShaver is … a bit of a chore to get working (compared to VirtualBox).
A quick Googling doesn't reveal any obvious walkthroughs …
Classic Mac emulation could really use the same quantity and quality of attention that some of the other older platforms have received.
There are lots more things that can go wrong with old electronics and if the chips have lost their logic or whatever, you may find replacing those a bit more of a challenge or even to diagnose.
That said, I simply put a new battery into a radio made around 1974 (Roberts) and it worked. I'd already read up on things like tin whiskers growing inside the transistors and all sorts of horrors but I didn't need to dust down my soldering iron.
There are a lot of electronics hobby sites around with some very knowledgeable people lurking in them.
That solder used more tin in the alloy than lead-based solders did, and grew "whiskers" like crazy. Various methods and means were attempted to slow it down (the best way was complete conformal coating - but that made rework very difficult), but it took a while for manufacturers to understand what and how it was happening. I think since then, lead-free solder has a different formulation to make it not as bad, but it still happens. Technically, it can happen in virtually any tin-based alloy, but for some reason lead-based alloys with tin didn't grow them anywhere near as much or as fast.
So - a 1974 radio is probably not going to be an issue. The computers, though, are a different thing. It will depend on when they were manufactured vs when the EU directive came around, and when the manufacturer switched over, etc. A lot of small variables come into play.
Likely, though, there won't be any problems. I still have computers and electronics from the early 1990s and before that all work fine. The issues with capacitors should be looked at, but it was only a problem for a certain time period (late 1990s IIRC); prior to that you'd only have to worry about "reforming" capacitors if they were very, very old (like power supply caps from a computer of the early 1970s or such). If you had - say - an Altair from the 1970s - yeah, you wouldn't want to try just plugging it in, that could lead to a fire even if the caps looked ok.
I'd be sad enough if starting them up caused them to stop working, but I hadn't considered the possibility of them catching fire....
The electrolytic capacitors on most late-80s and early 90s Macs also will fail (and probably already have), they leak electrolytic fluid onto the board which can often cause damage. I have several old Macs (SE/30, IIci, Q605, Color Classic) which I had to recap, and often had to fix eaten-away traces as well. The sooner you get them recapped, the better.
Then copy the image to a modern computer, and you can transfer it into an emulator and mount the image. Ethernet to a netatalk or FTP server is usually the easiest way, depending on what kind of Mac it is.
If you need advice, PM me or make a thread at 68kmla.org or reddit.com/r/vintageapple
My first thought is start with an old pc (probably i486) with a floppy drive and a working harddrive, and a network card. Install linux (old kernel - don't give this access to the real internet). From there use networking (nfs or ftp) to copy the parts to a more modern system.
Goodwill and surplus stores might still have all the parts if you look around. Also hacker spaces, ask around what someone still has in the dark corners of their basement.
Back in the day, many of the "SS/DD" floppies were "DS/DD" manufacturing "rejects" that didn't pass QA quality checks - they sold special punches (or you could DIY it with scissors or a hole punch) to cut the proper notch for the timing hole to allow you to format and use the "other side". This was cheaper than buying the ones that passed (a pack of ten floppies could run $20.00 or more, depending on the brand).
If your drive was single sided (meaning it only had one read/write head on one side of the mechanism), you'd have to flip the floppy over (aka - a "flippy"/"flippie") - but then the media would be rotating backwards relative to the "good" side; any dirt that the cleaning wipes on the inside of the main "jacket" in theory could become dislodged and cause problems, but I never encountered that as a kid. But it was a concern at the time. The price difference though made it an acceptable tradeoff.
Of course, after getting a working floppy drive, you'd then need a way to hook it up; if you have a motherboard that still has floppy connectors, and you have a cable, then you're one step closer. Otherwise you'll have to use a more complex solution (like the mentioned KryoFlux board).
But getting that floppy drive is the first step; if you can, get at least a DS/DD drive minimum; if you can get both a DS/DD and DS/HD drive, that's a good thing too. Otherwise, if all you can find is the DS/HD drives, better than nothing. In theory, a DS/HD drive can read anything (backwards compatible), but in practice by people doing these kinds of recovery, that hasn't always worked out, whereas getting the drive to match the floppy is the better solution.
Finding these drives can be problematic, mainly because of a variety of reasons. There's the whole "vintage PC" movement and crowd which have been driving up prices and causing problems with finding the parts, but the greater problem (for virtually anything pre-486) has been manufacturing: Many factories and whatnot used a variety of machine tools which used an "embedded" PC - usually a 286 or 386 - for CNC and similar control work. So finding working floppy drives, not to mention motherboards - has been a pain; as this was becoming known, too, prices have escalated.
You'll also probably find that a lot of older PC parts - for some reason, at least on ebay - are being listed out of former Eastern European countries; I am not sure why that is, or how legit it is. You'll also find a lot of stuff from China - again, I don't know the legitimacy of those offers. It may have been one of those "dumping ground" things for PC recyclers here in the USA; if you are based in the USA, it would be best to only look for parts from the USA, alternatively check Craigslist, and local area hamfests for old computer parts.
Are there companies who do this work which don't cost an arm and a leg? Hobbyists to network with? It's the type of thing that deserves an attempt before another year rolls by, but if the disks are unreadable or have bad sectors, a first-effort image is good enough.
Sometimes I wish there was an online geek-tools tool-share site. A KryoFlux + drive capable of reading Apple floppies is something I'd use once.
Ciderpress (windows utility) + SuperDrive-equipped Classic Mac was all I needed for all my early-1980s and Macintosh and Apple ][ related hobby adventures.
EDIT: Well I guess if you're stepping all the way down to 140KB ProDOS disks you'll need access to an Apple ][ system that can bridge the gap. Apple ][GS's are great for this.