The art of the dinner party
nytimes.com
nytimes.com
Dinner parties are perfect because I'm completely unsociable when it comes to regular parties - I detest smalltalk. Over dinner however, talk is deep and profound and often difficult and challenging. Friendships can be broken, or new ones made that last a lifetime.
The author has a problem with cellphones? Ask kindly for them to not be at the table, forgo the Instagram credit and make a stand. It's not going to ruin everyone's day for not having a filtered photo of your lobster this one time.
For those who don't think they can cook: it's a combination of understanding food chemistry and following instructions. Think about a favourite meal you had once and try and recreate - all good food needs is passion, the rest follows.
Or, in the words of Auguste Gusteau: "Anyone can cook."
There have been untold number of cooks who know nothing about actual chemistry beyond "water = H2O", including tons of professional chefs all over the world. In fact any chef before like early 20th century or so wouldn't know the first thing about chemistry proper unless they've studied chemistry -- heck chemistry became a real discipline after the 18th century, but exquisite cooking has been with us for millennia.
Baking soda is a base, and reacts with buttermilk which is acidic.
It's not clear to me why some recipes contain both acid+baking soda and baking powder. Maybe they're worried that the first combination isn't sufficient?
My breakfast this morning used yoghurt + baking soda ;) (бухти)
Parent said "understand food chemistry", which I understand not to be the chemistry of food as it relates to molecules and chemical reaction chains, but rather something more basic: this thing can soak too much oil, this burns quickly even in moderate fire, this food gets soggy if you put in this before that, and such things.
My mother studied food chemistry at college, so childhood baking generally included 20 seconds of explanation on why something I was about to do would make a mess. ("If you don't do X, the protein in won't coagulate and it will all fall apart.")
This mostly applied to baking, cooking eggs, or making a roux. The rest doesn't really matter.
Cooking a meal is more about tasting, technique than the exact amount of ingredients. Pastry is a different beast, it you don't use the exact amounts or time chances are your dish will fail.
Smalltalk is how you get to know a little about someone so you can move on to deeper things you both want to talk about. It's really unusual to just launch into deep conversation with someone you barely know.
Without it, the atmosphere gets really intense really quickly, which can be weird unless you're among old friends or people who have high emotional intelligence to start with (can't always count on that).
Then I ask questions about that story.
What excellent advice! My go-to line has been "what's been keeping you busy lately" which is a polite form of asking what someone "does" without making them them I only care what job they have.
Also: https://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/03/18/88-dinner-partie...
It's not that unusual for me. This might be part of why people seem to have strong reactions to me, whether positive or negative. I am pretty terrible at small talk.
I usually am only trying to make conversation. I am slow to judge and I tend to assume people do things for a reason. So I don't dump a bunch of shame and guilt on people.
I also default to talking about me rather than about other people. It gets me accused of being self centered and crap like that, but I find it to be the least worst option, vastly less problematic than talking about other people.
not to mention the cleaning up is a good 3-4h after (or the next morning)
respect for those who can fit it in their schedule. i know i have no excuse because the author of the article is a restaurateur in NY which surely means a 365-day-a-year commitment to her business. where she finds time, i don't know. i sometimes feel like i can't do it and i definitely don't work every day.
Then I put away the liqueur bottles, wipe down the table, and replace the chairs. What other mess is there, beyond routine cleaning?
I've done the other kind too with more planning and a day or 2 of cooking too. Just suggesting that you can also do it without the planning and hours of cooking.
There is an art to a good dinner party. People have to feel welcome, you have to have a laid back enough attitude that they don't feel they are dining with the queen while still having enough structure that the dinner feels like it's going somewhere.
Maybe I am just lucky but I have not experienced people looking on their phones all the time at least not enough for it to be a problem.
The biggest problem these days are finding people who eat everything and like all sorts of food.
In a restaurant you can leave at any point with very small excuses; you can safely blame the cuisine if you don’t like it; and it’s a large environment with distractions, where one can simply “blend out” if he wants to. At somebody’s home the attention on each other is more intense, it’s a small and quieter environment, you can’t tell the host that his lasagna is terrible or his background music is atrocious, and it feels a bit offensive to leave early.
This sort of thing is not an issue if people are close friends who can safely slag each others’ off, but in an increasingly globalised and atomised society the ratio of friends to acquaintances has decreased significantly, so gatherings probably tend to feel more formal.
1. Invite each guest individually. Don’t use a mass mail or an online service
2. It’s not about the food.
3. Serve something you’ve cooked several times before. Or order in. Or make cooking a communal process.
#3 (communal process) can be really fun and enjoyable. It depends on the people. Each time I experienced it, people were always having great time. Perfection should not be sought. Letting people add their creativity can help. It can really be a good idea. But do not force anyone not willing to participate and do not make such people feel like they are jerks.
#2 really depends on the people. It has been wrong most of the cases in my experience. People often enjoy food. Food is part of the pleasure for many people!
Two somewhat related cultural touchstones:
1. Truman Capote’s party of the century — the menu hardly seems like a highlight: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_and_White_Ball
> The night's menu, to be served at midnight, consisted of scrambled eggs, sausages, biscuits, pastries, spaghetti and meatballs and chicken hash, a specialty of the Plaza and one of Capote's favorite dishes.
2. Dialog from Glengarry Glen Ross:
Ricky: Did you ever take a dump - made you feel like you'd just slept for twelve hours?
James Lingk: That I -
Ricky: Yes? [James Lingk laughs.]
James Lingk: I don't know.
Ricky: Or a piss? Great meals fade in reflection. Everything else gains. You know why? 'Cause it's only food. This shit we put on us keeps us going. It's only food. The great fucks you may have had, what do you remember about 'em?
Also, it's incredibly rude to show up to an event 4 hours late. 30 minutes, I can understand, if you got caught up, but 4 hours is taking the piss.
IMO, a dinner party doesn't have to be some stuffy affair. It's just a group of people getting together to share a meal, typically in someone's home. I often host a Sunday dinner for family and occasionally a friend or two and their families. The numbers are sometimes in the 10+ range, including kids. It's usually a pretty casual event, some food, some drinks, some nice conversations.
You might say that's just having a few people over for dinner, not a "dinner party." Maybe you're right. But I think the act of communal in-home dining, involving some family and/or friends, is very common across cultures. The WASPy "dinner party" is just one variation on that.
Dinner parties to me are just sort of a funny cultural quirk that I don't really get, I guess. Another one is how everyone else knows all the common dances at weddings. I've been to a few but not enough to, you know, get the choreography right lol.
I don't expect the reader to agree with me. That's not the point. Unlike the behavior called for at a dinner party, I am not obliged, sitting at my typewriter, to help procure consensus every moment. So I am at liberty to declare, to the friend who once told me that dinner parties were one of the only opportunities for intelligently convivial conversations to take place in this cold, fragmented city, that she is crazy. The conversation at dinner parties is of a mind-numbing caliber. No discussion of any clarifying rigor—be it political, spiritual, artistic, or financial—can take place in a context where fervent conviction of any kind is frowned upon, and the desire to follow through a sequence of ideas must give way every time to the impressionistic, breezy flitting from topic to topic. Talk must be bubbly but not penetrating. Illumination would only slow the flow. Some hit-and-run remark may accidentally jog an idea loose, but in such cases it is better to scribble a few words down on the napkin for later than attempt to "think" at a dinner party.
What do people talk about at such gatherings? The latest movies, the priciness of things, word processors, restaurants, muggings and burglaries, private versus public schools, the fool in the White House (there have been so many fools in a row that this subject is getting tired), the undeserved reputations of certain better-known professionals in one's field, the fashions in investments, the investments in fashion. What is traded at the dinner-party table is, of course, class information. You will learn whether you are in the avant-garde or rear guard of your social class, or, preferably, right in step.
As for Serious Subjects, dinner-party guests have the latest New Yorker in-depth piece to bring up. People who ordinarily would not spare a moment worrying about the treatment of schizophrenics in mental hospitals, the fate of Great Britain in the Common Market, or the disposal of nuclear wastes suddenly find their consciences orchestrated in unison about these problems, thanks to their favorite periodical—though a month later they have forgotten all about it and are on to something new. The dinner party is a suburban form of entertainment. Its spread in our big cities represents an insidious Fifth Column suburbanization of the metropolis. In the suburbs it becomes necessary to be able to discourse knowledgeably about the heart of the city, but from the viewpoint of a day-shopper. Dinner-party chatter is the communicative equivalent of roaming around shopping malls.
[...]
The first to leave breaks the communal spell. There is a sudden rush to the coat closet, the bathroom, the bedroom, as others, under the protection of the first defector's original sin, quit the Party apologetically. The utopian dream has collapsed: left behind are a few loyalists and insomniacs, swillers of a last cognac. "Don't leave yet," begs the host, knowing what a sense of letdown, pain, and selfrecrimation awaits. Dirty dishes are, if anything, a comfort: the faucet's warm gush serves to stave off the moment of anesthetized stock-taking—Was that really necessary?—in the sobering silence that follows a dinner party.
IMO, they're both variations on communal in-home dining, but I can see how they fall at different ends of a spectrum. Cooking for a large family gathering doesn't feel like a "dinner party;" that's just family dinner. Whereas inviting 10 (relative) strangers to dinner feels like a dinner party.
But then there's a whole gray area in the middle where I'm not sure. For example, I cook family dinner on Sunday for 4-8 family members in the area, and I sometimes invite a neighbor family or a few friends over to join that meal. Does inviting the non-family people turn it into a dinner party?
I don't know. It kind of feels like one. A lot of people who don't know each other well (or at all) and don't normally eat together are sharing a meal, some drinks, some stories. If that's not a "dinner party", what other attributes would need to be present to turn it into a dinner party?
Given that the typical one bed flat has a single room that isn't bedroom, bathroom or kitchen (although actually, many modern builds seem to be not actually have such a room - it's just a living room with a cooking area up against one wall), do you move everything else out of the room with the table in? I'd probably have to move the sofa out, and a cabinet, so I could drag the table into the middle of the room so people could sit all around it, and I certainly don't have eight chairs to put around the table. It would seem like quite a waste of space to have so many extra chairs in the flat permanently just for the occasional dinner party. Where do they go when the table is contracted into four-spaces mode? Or do you borrow some? I do know people who've borrowed furniture for a particular event.
TLDR: it's not ideal, but doable.
Chairs, of course, were assembled from various other uses around the apt, and I had a few slight, almost space-less lawn chairs if I needed extra. In my smallest apartment, I'd pull the door against the couch, so that three people could sit down. But this was obviously not ideal because they sunk much lower...
I don't know where you live, but I guarantee you could find a large apartment or duplex or something to rent with a few friends, which would be cheaper than living alone and give you more space than you know what to do with. As an added bonus, you'd have a few reliable guests to seed your dinner parties.
Central London rental property is beyond ridiculous [1] (that's partly why I left). If you choose to live there, it's unreasonable to compare it to anywhere else -- except Hong Kong, Singapore, etc.
[1] https://www.gumtree.com/p/property-to-rent/nice-single-studi...
It’s just that most people who had such a room (in traditional semi-detached layouts) sacrificed it when eating in front of TV became normal; might as well get rid of a room with just a table that is never used, and turn it into another bedroom, or an extended living room. I chose not to do that, not even when I lived in your typical 2up-2down terrace, because eating around a table (most days in the kitchen, sometimes in a rearranged livingroom with an extendable table for occasions) is how I grew up, and there can be no tv while eating together.
Obviously if you are in London, any space is at premium; but London is just insane like that. Normal people do have the chance, they just opt out of it.
As a broke college student we’d have people sitting on the floor in the living room and at random small tables or standing all over the apartment, with guests serving themselves from off the top of the stove. In tiny NYC apartments we’d pretty much do the same thing. In my current apartment in Brooklyn we have a table that can fit 6 in our living room and a kitchen big enough for one is all it takes to prepare a meal.
As an adult I’ve always made it a priority to never have a TV and always have space to hold small dinner parties.
Housing is not that expensive everywhere.
(We have one of those big Amish extendable tables that go up to 15'.)
We're definitely not rich/elderly (well, early 60's, I guess that's pretty elderly by many young people's standards ;-).
And then in America you can buy a 3000sq ft house for $150k, definitely room for a dinner party because there's not much else to do out there.