I feel the same way in that their portrait mode just doesn't look right compared to what you would get from a real shallow depth of field and a fast lens.

But I think the (depressing) truth of it is that I notice it because I've had fast lenses and spent a lot of time taking photos, so I know what natural looking bokeh looks like. And bokeh is also just an artifact of a lens and aperture combo, so who is to say that extreme blur with a sharp line as they are doing isn't just going to be the new standard?

I suspect the next generation will come to prefer this look (if it continues) and find the "natural" effect with real glass as weird.