Had an experience like this while surfing, years ago. I trusted a friend and went out surfing when it was double overhead. Had no business doing that, being a fumbling idiot on a board but trusted him.

Made it out and caught a wave and wiped out -- can remember fighting the white water for what felt like 20 minutes, tumbling end over end and trying to time my gasps and keep cool. Just hoping I'd be washed inland if I just kept balancing the conservation of energy with forward progress.

Life isn't a joke and we shouldn't take it trivial. There are such joys all around us which don't require unnecessary high risks.