A French wine trade war
nytimes.com
nytimes.com
I don't know whether it's because the French export their worst wine (or perhaps I just have no taste), but since the French themselves are drinking less of it, I can't help but think that complacency has crept in somewhere.
* I can sink at least two bottles of Bordeaux region cheap supermarket wine with virtually zero after effects the next day * I cannot sink at least two bottles of any wine from say Tesco without suffering the next day (I'm GB based)
There are quite a few caveats here but in general I'm actually going to allow for the rumour that them there froggies actually know what they are doing: they make bloody good wine - instinctively. Whatever we get here is broken in some way.
I will continue my investigation and attempt to come to a conclusion - hic
No we bloody don't.
The stuff I've drunk in France and Italy seems better to me (anecdote) than we get here.
I'm not an expert but I know a hangover when I experience one and I don't get one when I drink certain wines (within reason)
No, France is still allowed to be even more picky than EU regulations require. Same goes for what can be called "baguette" in- and outside France: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baguette
However, I once spent a week in Paris buying mostly the cheapest not-obvouisly-bad wine I could find, down to 3€ a bottle, and all of it was really, really good, which, given my experience with French imports to the US, surprised me. I suspect that 1) markup on French wine shipped to the US is much higher than other imported wines, and 2) a lot of what is shipped at this markup isn't the best stuff at its French price point to begin with.
Old world and especially French wines are generally more neutral and restrained wines, made to be consumed with food.
Also a very high percentage of low and mid-tier wines made in the 'international' style are more like a composed semi-synthetic product made to conform to a rather homogenous consumer preference, and altered with flavourings/additives[1], esthers, enzymes, etc. than the classic definition of an 'authentic' wine (even if that itself is kind of bullshit).
See:
A good 3rd of my wine collection is French.
I am pretty sure the practice is mostly non-existent in Europe. At least in appellation wines.
But when people complain that low-cost wines are better in the new world, my experience is that they are invariably referring to the fact that they can get a consistent fruit forward 'shiraz' for $13 but when they taste a cheap French wine it's nothing like that.
Fair point however.
I have found in the last couple of years some makers have started to move to more of a French style. In the world of whites, the cougar juice is giving way to a better old world style wine.
I agree there are some suspect fruit bombs out there that people think wine should taste like. I hope that is changing.
E.g., kinda like the German beer-making standard vs. "anything goes" Belgian-style ales.
https://www.europeanbeerguide.net/reinheit.htm
I'd also be interested to know what is and isn't allowed in wine.
For some reason, the wine also get something like 5 times price increase when leaving the country.
Then our exchange family told us to go direct to a local vineyard where they bottled their own (1 km away from coperative). The same 4 euros per bottle was gorgeous - and they had a lovely white which was still relatively new for them! We bought a case which was all we could fit into our suitcases for return flight...
We asked how they sold, and they sent half their produce to the Cooperative for cash flow (where it was mixed in to improve the other rubbish presumably), and then bottled the rest themselves and sold direct. Over the years they had built a steady clientele. They did say that with taxes and transport other costs, the price went up 4x or more for end user.
Chilean and Australian wines are what I drink here when I go for a cheap bottle. Still, I feel like they add some kind of preservative in wines here, even good ones. There is an aftertaste I dont get with wines (even cheap ones) in France.
But yes, complacency is also a factor. Wines are getting better everywhere and foreign wine compete favorably in the cheap range.
Now I am just hoping that one day they will compete in cheese and that I can buy some at the local supermarket without having a 5x multiplier because of the "french" label.
Yes, because Anything from France sells. And we are finally seeing some consumers realizing the quality they are getting. I still think we are still 10+ years away from ending this French premium pricing mark up.
More Importantly, the French knows of this as well. And from my experience the pricing of French (export) product fluctuate alot. For the same product I could get it 2-3x cheaper from Japan trade, ( France to Japan then Ship to other region ) then buying it directly from France. ( With less volume, but the difference shouldn't be that big )
Then there is the trader. Lots of French Product company dont do export themselves. They have deals with some Trading company, acting as their Export branch. Reasons because they dont have to deal with many export regulations, no need to hire someone to speak English or other languages. But these trading companies tend to make a mess sometimes when they are selling to lots of places with different pricing.
We are a very good country for cheese, with a lot of variety. But nobody outside the country goes shopping for the fancy Australian cheeses and so I don't think you will see many of them in even the specialty shops.
As for the camembert, I have no idea why they call it that way. Unless I did get particularly bad ones at my supermarket, this is really different. Very little taste, closer to a brie actually.
I've found price and quality poorly correlated with Aussie wines: the big brands are cheap and unexciting but very dependable, while small producers tend to be expensive and wildly inconsistent.
I admit I'm an awful wine snob: I can't drink cheap, mass-produced wine and I love inconsistency - I'm happy to be disappointed on occasion when more often that not, with the guidance of an experienced wine shop owner, I'm going to get something exciting from a small producer.
While Dan Murphy's range might on the surface seem comparable to say, Sydney's Oak Barrel: if you know you want a non-typical French red (say, not a Bordeaux blend or Bourgogne pinot noir), the latter has a truly wider selection away from the generic, sellable reds. Plus, the staff are crazy knowledgeable and I often walk in saying "I want something great for $20" and they'll honestly get me the best available in that price range.
https://www.danmurphys.com.au/red-wine/Category-red-wine/cou...
http://www.oakbarrel.com.au/shop/wine?price=50&country=franc...
https://www.diffordsguide.com/encyclopedia/1119/bws/how-is-s...
Does blending with wine means >1 grape variety is used, then just pressed and fermented?
Hand picking and using corks still is quaint and has value, but if you're looking just at taste, technology wins.
Here in the US, nearly all wine stores I've been to sorts wine per type (red, white, etc) for local wines and have a specific foreign section "France", "Australia", etc. Even regular grocery stores tend to do this too.
If groceries chains did this in France, consumers would then rarely buy the Spanish wines unintentionally.
I don't think the winemakers would have a hard time lobbying for at least forcing grocery stores to display foreign wines in a clearly labeled section.
Are you sure they actually do that? I've been to a few supermarkets in France and wine was predominantly organised by French region. I can't imagine they'd slip these bottles in to one of those sections.
EDIT: Found photos of sections like "wine between 3 and 4 EUR". Either times have changed or I hadn't seen a representative sample when I visited :)
Also, I don't find a perfectly legible "Vin de la Communeauté Européenne" label particularly deceptive. It's also a 1L bottle - hardly the sign of a good wine.
Conning customers with fake logos (for organic food for example) and misleading packaging is a very common thing. The law forbid to use some regional names[1] but creating some fake "Château Mytho" brand with the origin of the product writing in yellow 4pt font size is still totally legal.
Some of this stuff is even legally organized. For example the "organic food" label of the European Union allows up to 5% non-organic in the product. The domestic label was then changed to match the European one, now allowing some "accidental" GMO.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appellation_d%27origine_contr%...
Do mean not separated by origin country? I thought they're mostly separated by French/area region, though? You couldn't slip one of the Spanish wines in to those sections.
Though I just googled photos of carrefour and found a photo of sections like "vin entre 3 EUR et 4 EUR". That kind of layout could easily intermingle non-French wine
(Disclaimer: I'm french and had said emotional reaction. I don't even particularly like wine)
All of those rules make sense in producing better wines, but it make it hard to compete on price.
And also in many cases, because illegal immigrants, who work in these vineyards, are treated in such poor conditions, close to slavery, that salaries can not be matched without breaking labor laws.
Regarding the harvest in particular, there used to be a tradition where people who came to help would be compensated with food and drinks at the end of the day, rather than a salary. Not sure if that's still the case now that mechanical harvesting is so common. At least I don't think one would have to pay to experience hand-picking, like some fancy American wineries require.
Production of these wines are not very labor intensive: harvest is done mechanically, pruning is semi automated and most of the other operations are either not done or automated. All of those vineyards use irrigation to increase yields. Those are not very interesting wines, but we are talking about approx. 0.5 euros per litre (when buying in bulk) wines.
It is not that they can't compete against it, they just want to make sure they have market for themselves as it is saturated.
70% of wine consumption in Czech republic have to be imported and we were not allowed to plant new vineyards. The rules changed last year and we can plant up to 1% of our allowed area now. Still not enough.
Why is that?
Local producers are able to sell all of their wines without much problem and there is demand for more, but there is nothing we can do about it. Prices of vineyard land did grow 400% over last 10 years and there is huge consolidation going on. Not great place to be independent winemaker with expansion plans.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/10/14/underpaid-illegal...
http://www.ibtimes.com/plight-migrant-labor-barolo-italys-ki...
As I understand it Africans are the main labour source for many farms in Spain.
Some articles to read:
https://migration.ucdavis.edu/cf/more.php?id=40
https://www.theguardian.com/business/2011/feb/07/spain-salad...
http://info.arte.tv/fr/espagne-les-naufrages-de-la-mer-de-pl...
(Audio in French or German, subtitles in Spanish or Polish.)
They say about 40.000 illegals work in those greenhouses.
http://www.antislaverycommissioner.co.uk/about-modern-slaver...
> Those who are enslaved are exploited for the financial gain of their captors. The vulnerable are made to work in cruel conditions for long hours without pay. Examples include women and girls forced into prostitution for profit, young boys made to commit criminal acts against their will and men kept in slave-like conditions in factories.
> Last year there was a total of 3805 recorded victims of modern slavery in the UK, a 17% increase on the year before. Victims came from 108 different countries, with the top 3 being Albania, the UK and Vietnam (find out more on the Resources page).
> In 2016 the most common types of exploitation for adults and children in the UK, where known, were labour exploitation and sexual exploitation. Individuals in the UK are exploited for labour in various places of work, from hotels to farms, boats to building sites and nail bars to cannabis factories. Labour exploitation spans the agricultural, hospitality, fishing and construction sector. In addition, people are exploited for sexual purposes, including forced prostitution, escort work and pornography.
Are you sure or are you extrapolating?
While typically a free market fan, I do believe the pendulum has swung too far towards globalism in the last couple of decades. In general, this has vastly improved the lives of millions of very poor families in developing nations - but at a significant cost to families like blue collar Americans, leaving millions feeling that they're being left behind by technological progress, foreign labor, and politics/media that increasingly focuses on the "glamorous" US coastal cities. This is a gross oversimplification of the myriad of intertwined issues but this is the general perception for a lot of people.
We'd better figure out how to address this perception and begin to work on tangible solutions soon or this type of violent response may only be the tip of the iceberg.
Therefore ending globalization would help the poor at the expense of the rich, but you could also just take money from the rich and give it to the poor. Since globalization brings more money into the country overall there must be some level of redistributive taxation that makes globalization better than non-globalization.
Poor people who are still employed also gain from globalization, because their inputs become cheaper.
Above all, too high a rate of change is what causes dislocation and destroys lives, when large segments of the population are left without valuable skills.
The wealth in the world exists for everyone to have a decent life.
But as long as the middle class thinks the poor is their enemy, we will stagnate.
I am deeply pessimistic about the next 10-50 years. Historically, situations like this led to revolutions, and recalibrations. But when the problem is "I can't afford the newest iPhone", not "I can't afford a loaf of bread", people are not inspired to really demand change. I think everyone is too satiated and complacent, which is why Brexit and Trump happen and the US/UK will get worse before things get better.
I'm not sure that's true globally - check out "Bill Gates: Global inequality is falling faster than ever" https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2016/04/bill-gates-global-ine... for example.
Regarding inequalities within countries, things used to be bad that way in 1900-1920 with low taxes, then up to the 70s tax rates on the rich went up to 80 or 90%+ which reduced inequality and then that ended with Thatcher/Reagan being voted in but a high tax regime could be voted back in if people want it.
Your simple analysis might make the inequality metrics look better but seriously take a step back and think about all the things that are out of whack that could contribute to it.
Who's to say it's not all the debt that has been built up that siphons money from the poor to the rich? Increasing taxes don't make the poor people's lives any better even though it makes you feel good because you get to stick it to the rich.
Debt is indeed a tool used by the haves to siphon money from the have nots. All the more reason for wealth redistribution.
His data is not irrefutable, it is pieced together from many different scrappy time series and has put some parts of his analysis in question.
https://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/31/upshot/everything-you-nee...
I also have to wonder where you get the idea that anything in economics is 'hard data', the world is a complex system, it's very rare for a simple answer to work.
But a simple answer will sell books and be easy to promote by the media and politicians. That's why we always hear simple answers, not because they work.
Granted, this is all anecdotal, and I have had some great French wines (love that they are biodynamic as well for the most part), but to my eyes the wine market is really broadening. French wines just may not hold the mystique they once did.
Most new world wines like the ones you mentioned taste amazing as isolated sipping wines, but sometimes compete with food rather than complement it.
Most European wines shine when consumed with food, but they often do less well as sipping wines.
Note that these are broad-stroke comments, there are always exceptions, blah blah blah. That said, any skilled sommelier can serve you the archetypes as examples.
Perfect example of a race to the bottom.
They move from China to Bangladesh because competition from more productive industries makes Chinese wages grow faster than what garment manufacturing can support, don't they?
(I read that these days even cleaners get about 5 USD/h in the bigger cities. But that's not because cleaners are more productive, but because non-traded sectors get a case of Baumol's cost disease.)
Presumably readers are supposed to assume the French rules are somehow necessary. But Spain and many other countries seem capable of producing good wine at different price points. Maybe the French just have the wrong rules?
That basically only guarantees the origin of the grapes/wine, not quality, so it seems (generally) implicit that if a geographical indication is not present the wines are from "unspecified" locations, isn't that enough?
when i was working for a wine and spirits shop on the upper east side a controversial ruling was proposed in the eu(o)
it stated that rose wine, which was becoming a popular wine in the newish 'priced to drink' wine market, could subvert the costly precision of rose production, wherein for example one has to remove the skins at just the right time, with a simpler method of just mixing red and whites together
french wine producers were among the leaders in lobbying against the proposal
it seems france won that battle(i)
(o) https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/mar/17/rose-wi...
(i) http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/news/...
.. rose=rosé ..
Actually Occitan is now a dead language, and at the time it was current, nobody pronounced "yes" as "oui" yet either. But the name persists.
What?? This is completely false. There are hundreds of thousands of native Occitan speakers alive today.
I don't know any Hungarian speakers; can we conclude that Hungarian is a dead language?
This isn't fake news, it's well documented -- every recent study on Occitan has estimated at least 100,000 native speakers, on the very low end.
Yes, it's a very endangered language, and it might be dead in a few decades, but it's not dead yet.
BTW, this only applies to France. In Val d'Aran for example (in Spain) it is an everyday language that doesn't seem at any risk of disappearing.